I plan to build a curbless (ADA roll-in) shower. I don't need to build up a curb or tile the entrance. Just as an FYI, I will never have a curbed shower again. It is a trip hazard and my friends that need canes/walkers/wheelchairs (some of them injured as children and young adults) cannot get past them. Limits resale to have a curbed shower. The curb itself is the problem, not necessarily the size of the shower. I think that is why most alcove/corner shower pans are being designed to be curbless on one side--makes it 'universally' accessible. Also, it is very easy to waterproof the entire bathroom floor these days. No curb or curtain or glass is actually needed, which saves lots of money and helps it dry out much faster!

Buehl, drawers with heavy duty glides won't have a problem with the weight, but nesting them can be a bit of a hassle, because you need the forearms of a Wisconsin dairy farmer to lift two at a time to grab a third from the bottom of a stack. One of the beauties of cast iron is it's ability to hold heat, but because of the mass they take a little longer to heat up. I love that the instant heat of gas heats the pan up quickly. I'm sure they'll hold heat just as well on electric, but they might take longer to come up to temperature. I'd also worry about my pans scratching a smooth top electric, because they are quite heavy. HTH.

Enduring- thanks for responding. I had seen your shower- it turned out just beautiful. I wasn't sure if in your research you'd explored a sliding glass door or not. To answer your questions. One end of the shower is on an exterior brick wall. The other is flanked by a custom linen closet surrounded by tile with the edges grouted. It's not coming out. If I had no other choice but to do doors, I'm pretty sure I'd have to remove tile on one or both ends and add the blocking- not something I'd like to do if I can avoid it. Likely I'd just have one door and a fixed panel on the other- I'm pretty sure the toilet clearance wouldn't let me do two doors like you have. Though I see your point about having a fixed panel- I can't drill into the shower pan so that wouldn't work either. Hopefully some of the glass guys can give me their opinion about using epoxy to secure clips on the bottom. Thanks again for your help- much appreciated. Lisa

We are installing a 36 x 60 cast iron shower receptor and frameless bypass sliding doors. The glass company said they drill into cast iron all the time and it's not a problem. As a preventive measure, I will ask them to add silicone to the underside of the sill mounted center guide to seal out water and prevent rust. Thank you to everyone who commented on this thread - your input has been helpful and informative.