We waited last year due to higher costs and seasonal weather. I will be checking again next month. It's looking like we will have to compromise some sqfootage. Dbrad- we will grab a paddle too as many of us are in this boat together. I scour the market in my spare time and even have been to a few showings but I have realized nothing will check all our boxes either. I am beginning to think it's like comparing apples to oranges since it's so hard to compete with this idea of the "fictitious" home that is conceived in our heads;). I'm sure reality, for us will consist of a work of compromise and more DIY landscaping and yard work left than we hoped to tackle. To the OP even though we are in SC our local contractor said OSB went double after hurricane Sandy so we waited in hopes...on a side note it's nice to worry about luxuries like space and level of finish in contrast to the cost of storm devastation.

Renovator8: That's a truly gorgeous kitchen. I'm curious if you could give me an approximation for per sq footage costs on building an authentic but not greene and greene style craftsman. I just want to know if we can afford enough house to make it worth it. I don't need a huge house but I would like 2500 sq ft at least with a finished basement. The house I'm currently in love with since it would work in a city or a country lot is 3900 Sq Ft plus a 600 sq ft bonus room. I'm pretty sure I can't afford to build it but...I would like to know. I would do slightly different trim and lighting but I do like it... http://www.melaragno.com/MelaragnoResidence.htm

Those are all items I would specify if I were building a house now. There are basic code requirements for all building areas like minimum stud size/location, floor/roof joist spacing, floor/roof sheathing, minimum electrical requirements and number of outlets per room, plumbing, insulation, and so on. For instance, to get more insulation in walls, you need to upgrade to 2" by 6" studs. That has to be designed into the blueprints. Minimum code for roof sheathing is 1/2" material on 24" on center rafters. That often sags with age. Using 5/8" sheathing is better---but has to be specified. If you are using an architect to develop plans, the architect should have already discussed all those(and more) areas.

All good feedback but if your heart is set on new then focus, learn and be prepared for mistakes. Personally I prefer older homes. I like the charm and character(aka flaws) an older home frequently offers. I am a commercial, high-rise demolition contractor and perform all of my renovations myself, so much as I can. I can't stand the residential contracting business. There's way too many "deadbeats" including an relative of mine. I haven't taken on the challenge your about to but I can offer some advise from a contractor's perspective. Many contractor's take on more than they can handle, It's the nature of the business. They rarely hit deadlines and will drag out your build while focusing on another project that is further behind schedule, or has a higher profit margin. Your best leverage is money. Negotiate into your contract(s) that you will not pay in advance for ANYTHING. If the contractor refuses to fund the purchase of materials then you should get the invoice from the supplier and issue a check to the supplier. You should be provided a Schedule of Values(SOV) upon selection of a contractor. This SOV is how you determine what is completed and how much the contractor is entitled to be paid. Be careful, many contractors will "front-load" the SOV to get most of their profit out in the 1st few tasks. For example, they will over-price the excavation, which is usually the easiest task so if the relationship sours, or you lose your financing, or whatever, he has made his money before anything happens. This is when ALL leverage is lost. It's also wise to negotiate that you will withhold "retainage". This is typically 10% of all progress payments and is intended to be your assurance that the work will get done properly, any damages will be fixed, all vendors will be paid and not lien your home. It will also give you time to see the little details that may be done poorly that need to be re-done. You WILL miss the little details from time to time. Upon 100% completion you will walk the entire home, flip every switch, test every outlet, flush each toilet, open & close each door and decide if you are satisfied. When satisfied and provided proper lien releases you can release the retainage. A "good" contractor will not be afraid to accept those terms. A "less than reliable" contractor likely will not. If you have little or no experience with contracting, building, etc. you would be wise to hire the architect or someone with the experience to manage this stuff for you or at least consult with you periodically to assist. Some contractors have mastered the art of the "change order". Fending this off is where someone with experience will help greatly. Things will come up that will cost the contractor additional money, you need to understand why it should cost YOU extra money before you agree to pay. For example, you choose a stove that requires 220 rather than 110 but the drawings show a 110 service in this location. This you pay for. While excavating they find bedrock that needs to be chopped out. This too you pay for unless the contractor was provided geotechnical reports showing the rock elevations. If the contractor has to reframe a floor to accommodate the toilet flange, this should not be your problem. Contractors will frequently use bully tactics to get their way. They will yell and berate unsuspecting homeowners to get paid when they are not entitled or to get the client to agree to pay for extra work which was really a result of their poor planning. Don't fall victim to these tactics. Your money is your money and not theirs. A friend used to just pay anytime a contractor claimed it was legit. After I yelled at him and explained he was being "taken" he let his wife handle it and they found that pushing back and not being accepting saved them thousands. Also remember, this is YOUR house and YOUR project, not theirs. If you don't like the way something is coming out, tell them to stop. Notify them in writing to stop, take pictures(MANY pictures) and document everything. If you tell them to stop installing the kitchen cabinets but they do so anyway, then when they request a change order for dismantling them and rehanging them you can reject it. It's YOUR house, it should be done to your satisfaction, not theirs. Moral of my long story... YOUR money is your only leverage. The more you hold back the more satisfaction your likely to get. Contractors can't be profitable if they cant get paid. Good luck.