hey pup - I'm plenty versed in the building arena and am still in the game as opposed to siting on the bench armchair quarterbacking. "I most assuredly CAN make that statement " yes - but you'd be making an inaccurate one! "Once you know the CFM you then determine the lenght of run from the fan to the point of discharge and use the friction head loss tables to determine the correct size of duct. " Since you're so versed on this - how long is essdana's duct run? Did his/her builder installer use 3" or 4" ducting? What's the static pressure difference between 3" and 4" duct? What was it made from? What's the flow loss when using corrugated aluminum duct vs. smoothwall PVC? Do you need a slide rule for the math calculations ? Are there any elbows/bends in the duct run? How many ? It's clear you know how to do this: "Once you know the CFM you then determine the lenght of run from the fan to the point of discharge and use the friction head loss tables to determine the correct size of duct. " But, since you don't know the sizing, material , length and pressure loss of essdana's duct work install - you can't ACCURATELY say that the 40 CFM fan in question will overcome the static pressure of his/her duct work. Sure it works on paper with your slick tables - but the real world presents some curveballs. You certain learned this on your journey to Master status. And, you're not going to get to use anything but 4" duct for this fan anyway 3" if your builder /customer is cheap. So overcoming high static pressure with a clever oversized duct plan isn't really an option. Another thing - This fan we are talking about - 40CFM, is that a max. rating, average? At what static pressure was that measurement taken or is that maximum free air movement? If it was rated at free air , the second you add duct work (any kind) that rating is going to drop on a pretty steep curve as 40 CFM fans tend not to be high quality and accurately rated from the get go. So - simply going rule of thumb based on your "experience" using a few tables can get you into trouble in a real bathroom. That's my point. Your 40 CFM "idea" sized fan is great in your air conditioned office. What if the maker fudged' their rating and the thing only moves 30cfm when a duct is attached? What if two 90 deg bend are added into the duct run? How much restriction does the roof cap add to the system? How many room air changes is that 40cfm fan really going to produce at essdana's house? You can't answer that- you can only answer what the theoretical maximum would be based on your beloved tables and some educated guesses based on your experience. They are still guesses, and are no better than my guesses - so settle down boy.

@k Sissy, I dry all my shower walls, caulking at the floor junction, and corners at the floor. Info this every time. I have not had to "clean" my shower in 3 years. I have only cleaned the cast iron floor as needed, because I don't wipe that down daily. Love the microfiber towel. Mines very thick and is 20x40". It is so absorbent it could dry 2 showers before I'd have to wring it out. It's hard/slow for me to hold the squeegee just right to make the perfect swipe on walls and glass. The towel is a breeze. I've asked people if they had to wipe down a nice car, would they squeegee it? No, they'd use a towel. No connection to this company. I've read that Korean microfiber is the best. I wash mine in very warm water, 120f. http://www.theragcompany.com/edgeless-avalanche-20-x-40-super-plush-drying-microfiber-towel/

Mommielady, I'm in Love with the curbless shower, even a year later! Not only does it have the appearance of making the room seem more open, with no curb to step (or trip) over on the way in/out, it's easy access. My Dad had problems with his hips in his old age, my mom has problems with her knees, and I have at times been physically handicapped enough to know that a shower you can simply walk into is much easier than one you step into. With aging and genetics being what they are, I was going to make it as easy on myself as I could. (If I'm ripping out the rest of the bathroom, well then why not?) Also, water does sometimes go beyond the opening, and a curb would make it seem more of a problem than if I expected it to stay within certain boundaries, especially since there's no door on the shower. I don't plan on being in a wheelchair, but I know how easy my shower is to access for anyone (even to bathe the dog). I would do it again in a HEARTBEAT. Is the end result of going curbless worth the headache of removing pre-existing concrete? It was for me, absolutely. If your contractor doesn't have experience with this however, I would find someone who does. Removing the concrete seems less problematic to me than getting the right slope on your mudbed so the drain will handle the water in the shower. You absolutely need someone with experience at this, so pick your tile guy carefully. Yes, the drain is off-center. Being centered, especially with two straight and a bowed wall didn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. What matters is the slope of the floor which allows the water to drain. The only way to get that is to build it from scratch. No, it wasn't hard for my tile guy to get the slope, although he had experience. They did have to tear out to the sub-floor so there'd be enough room to run the heated floor into the shower. I particularly love this because it dries the shower floor and I've never had an issue or mold or mildew. Again, setting a heated floor mat into your mud bed can be tricky so you really want someone who is experienced and will assume some liability with the company who manufactures the floor mat (I used Sun Touch). That way if there are problems, you have someone who knows where the problems can arise, and which path to take. What I saved on keeping the shower doorless (by not purchasing a frame-less glass door) allowed me to use the savings on the heated floor. I'm sorry, I couldn't back up enough in my small bathroom to get a picture of the entrance with my camera! It's very small, which is why I love so much having the feeling of even a little more open space. I hope this helps you.

We have been using our Panasonic since 2003 (the master bath is the coldest room in our house). No signs yet of any plastic turning brown. The Panasonics replaced Nutone junk that had gotten progressively louder and louder over the years. To the point where if the fan was turned on in the master bath you could hear it on another floor! The Panasonics have so far remained at the same quiet level as when they were installed. The WhisperWarm, BTW, is a very heavy unit - anyone installing it needs an extra helping hand starting out.