If the floor is an open-mesh RFH mat, I recommend setting the mat in place, then I use a garden sprayer to spray SLC primer on the mesh and the floor. Then pour the SLC. A technique. But it gives good drying time control over the primer. You probably know that the RFH mat should no go under the vanity. The vanity. If the vanity is freestanding, I prefer to tile the entire floor then set the vanity on top of the tile. If the vanity is built-in to the point where it's "built-in cabinetry", then I'll often not tile under the built-in. I'll shim the vanity up a bit, usually with a piece of plywood the size of the vanity's footprint. Then set the vanity. Then tile up to the vanity. Your's is a curious case to me, it's sort of hybrid, so I'm having difficulty giving you advice on which way to go. Sometimes notching sheetrock can get messy, sometimes it's the easier and better way. Sometimes setting the cabinet and drywalling to it is the better way. With no eyes on the project, I'll have to leave it at that. Sorry I can't be of more help.

I had the exact same problem. I picked out the vanity I wanted but did not think about the fact that it wasn't made to sit flush against the wall. I spent a month looking for something else, but in the end we decided to go with something shorter and have it not be against the wall. But we were going from 72" to 60" which is probably not workable in your mom's situation. I did find a lot of vanities that did have flat sides and could work in a corner, if you are willing to have the countertop fabricated. They just need to not have any trim detail on the top or bottom like the one you picked out does. I would just look at the ones without the pre-made tops. Because the pre-made top will still leave you with a slight gap because of the countertop overhang. This is an example: Avanity Modero which is sold everywhere, not just at Lowe's. The cabinet we ended up buying is an Avanity Madison which won't work for you, but I assume it is of similar quality. We are pretty happy with it. The drawers and doors have soft close but I do feel like the glides in my Ikea kitchen drawers are better quality. It is very pretty and I wanted a stained wood so I am really happy with our choice. If I had been willing to go with a painted finish, I think we might have stuck with the 72" Modero.

Millworkman, I think I must have read somewhere that you shouldn't use granite on MDF cabinets Patricia Colwell Consulting, the vanity does not come with a top. It was just shown with a top. The Hayneedle website description said it was just the cabinet and it is just the cabinet (arrived this past Friday). Siamesey, I hear ya but since I spent a ton of money converting the tub to shower, I have to save where I can. Unfortunately, when you combine the needs of my mother (the main user of this bathroom), the style that I would like, along with the need to work around the plumbing location, I actually don't have a lot of choices. It's been really hard to combine the first two of those and find a vanity with drawers on the left hand side (the plumbing dictate). I looked at custom made and even semi custom made and no, I can't do that. Even though the vanity is made of MDF and is RTA, to me it has better quality than some of low end all wood vanities that I've seen. Also, most of the cabinets I've looked at still seem to have MDF in them somewhere, especially white cabinets which is what I wanted for this bathroom.

Not a big deal. Pull the new vanity forward (it looks like you have about 8" of room to the casing) and run the plumbing behind it. Bonus, it gives you an extra deep counter. You could then put a shelf 6 or 8 inches up, running the full length of the vanity if you like.