I'll just put in my Le Creuset experience for future searcher/readers. Bought a set 30 years ago; Large Dutch Oven, Small/Med Dutch Oven, Medium soup pan, small soup pan, both with the wooden handles, med and small fry pan. Great stuff, love it and used reliably for many years...fast forward I burnt up the med soup pan (and btw the wooden handles were never a problem since I dont put things in the oven and they stayed fine over the years) making sugar water. The bottom had become a little rough over the years and so could not be salvaged - sent it in and got back one of the new all metal sauce pans. I liked the size and weight and shape and handle of my OLD pan better, plus for a sauce pan this seems to get a ring of hot spot on the bottom (I do cook on higher heat than I should or maybe its my elec stove?) anyway this is heavier, much longer handle, don't like or use it as much just due to the shape/weight issue. Then I do the same thing with the small soup pan. Send it in, replacement comes with the new black phrenolic handle, no big deal but they've changed the shape and size, its narrower at the bottom and taller and weighs more. I liked my old one better. So while I still think Le Creuset is the best enameled cookware, and perhaps just plain the best cookware with the no kidding greatest lifetime guarentee (I put in a letter saying I ruined it and that I'd be happy to buy a discounted replacement), I don't like their revamped shape and style of their soup/saucier pots. I don't know why they just didn't change the handles from wood to the black ovenproof stuff. If I could figure out how to make my old Paypal acct work I think I'd try buying the old style on eBay. (But you never know what people cooked in them and that creeps me out a little:)

Pulling heavy copper pots across cast iron grates may leave a trace of copper on the very tippy-top edges of the black grates (aluminum will do the same thing, only in silver). It's really not noticeable,and nothing to worry about. The traces of copper will be rubbed off as other pots are moved on the grates. My advice would be to use the cookware you have. If you find the slight trace of copper left on the grates to be bothersome....then decide on what you want to do. I use heavy Belgian copper for cooking about 90% of the time. I doubt that anyone would notice the very slight trace of copper left on my cast iron grates. It's not something I notice unless I consciously look for it.

Hey MLC! I've been musing on this for days now...;-) I've noticed this phenomenon on our 10y/o Beige (yawn!) Wilsonart countertops... * When an aluminum/steel bottomed pan/pot is moved slightly on the surface, the gray "pencil" scuff-mark appears. * And yes...the mark can be "buffed" out with no damage to the surface...curious...! * Soooo, it's not just painted surfaces that this applies to... * I don't have a solution, but "a scuff mark that doesn't damage either surface" IS an interesting issue! I've thought of calling Wilsonart...maybe you could find someone @ a SW Technical-dept.?? Faron

Perfect timing for me, this thread. We've replaced our 2'x11' kitchen bench seating area (termite damage -- caught early, but still...), and I just finished priming with Stix. In all my reading, I didn't anticipate how thick the primer would be, fresh out of the can -- my stir stick, jammed into the primer, stood at attention without issue! I contacted INSLX customer svc and was told I could thin with water. I did so, but it was still too thick to level well (I didn't want to exceed the amount of water recommended). I had to sand a fair bit to knock down the ridges. (I've repainted every door, spindle, baseboard and trim in this 26 y/o house of ours by now, using Lowes' American Tradition semi-gloss, and always got a smooth finish.) I have a can of Cabinet Coat at the ready, but am concerned about obtaining a flat finish: foam roller vs quality brush. How does one keep a wet edge when painting such a large swath, even if the paint levels well? (And I've read CC dries rather quickly.) I'm crossing fingers that CC will be the proper consistency (after a good stirring), so I won't have to worry about buying an extender (such as Floetrol or whatever INSLX might recommend). Whizz high-density foam rollers were recommended on one DIYer's site. Though, she was painting only cabinet door surfaces and wasn't dealing with the surface area of a wall-to-wall bench.