The Thermasol is the best unit. It has two chambers inside. One side is a holding tank that slowly adds water to the heating side. This gives you a constant flow of steam. Many other manufacturers only have one chamber. The chamber is filled with water, it heats up, and when it is empty you have to wait for the process to repeat.

"A couple of questions/concerns I'd love to run by you: the power to the generator was on when we plugged the control into the wire and affixed it to the wall...(I'm guessing that is not biggie)." Ah, that was the problem. Connecting the controller to a powered generator can cause a lock out. "I do not see a power switch on the unit - is there one, perhaps at the back?" Nope, no power switch on the unit. To unpower the unit you need to unplug the generator or turn off the breaker. "The cable is NOT in a conduit (as I read it's suggested). Do you foresee a problem?" If there is a pigtail plug that got wired onto the unit that got plugged into an wall outlet, then you don't need conduit. If, however, the generator was "hard wired" with individual conductor wires (should be three, 2 power/black and one ground/green), then those three conductors should be in conduit, or some sort of sleeve. "The generator is plugged in - it's either a 3 prong or 4 prong (I forget)." Well, there you go, no need for conduit! "Far as I know, the plumber did NOT flush the system. how is this done?" He doesn't have to flush the generator, but he should have flushed the water supply line that feeds the generator AFTER all his connections were made up but BEFORE it was connected to the generator. The water supply line should have a "threaded union" that connects it to top of the generator. That can be unthreaded, a bucket put under it, and the water supply valve opened. The goal is to flush out any debris in the supply tubing to wash out bits of copper, solder, flux, etc, junk left over from any soldering that was performed. There is a debris screen in the unit. But it helps to flush the line beforehand. "We did not want to turn on the steam immediately after installing the head because of the silicone - we wanted that to fully dry. Also, the glass is not in yet so I assume he cannot run the power flush." Correct. You need the glass up before you power flush. "What is or where is the "power flush valve"?" They should have left you the installation/instruction manual. But the power flush is sort of like a "self-cleaning cycle" for the generator. It'll wash out mineral deposits, etc. There are guidelines on how often to do it. More often if you have bad water. The power flush valve is on top of the generator. "Is "flush the system" synonymous with "power flush"? No. I wrote "flush the system" which is sort of misleading. I should have written "flush the supply line". As described above. "Power flush" is the generator deep cleaning itself. Aw heck, I went and looked up the manual for you in case they didn't leave you one. You picked an excellent generator by the way. Get that shower glass up so you can enjoy it!

@Tundra: I'm converting a tub/shower into an enclosed steam shower. The contractor assured they do a lot of bathroom remodels - including steam showers - as part of their business. The bathtub has been removed and the contractor has created the shower pan and has done the hotmop to assure the tar keeps any water in. I can't speak to the waterproofing that's being done. It's not a question I've asked. I've not asked about the sloping either. It will have a frame-less glass enclosure, and most likely with a transom. I purchased a Mr. Steam MS225EC1 steam generator, with iSteam controller, aromatherapy, speakers, bluetooth, autoflush and drain pan. The shower floor will have travertine pebbles, the walls/ceiling in porcelain, and accent trim that includes travertine with glass. You've provided some great questions for me to ask.

Creative Tile, I also have heard good things.....my plan has totally changed, you can search my name and find my design thread. I'm now doing a 48" neo angle. I want to go USG because they make the custom pan with the drain where I want it, and trimming these pans will obviously create some strange aesthetics at change of plane w/ wall. Problem is, no one wants to sell me one! Here in NJ, only distributor within 90 minutes are HD stores. I call them, and they don't know the custom pan exists. Local tile guy has Wedi, but very pricey, and it doesn't seem ideal for a neoangle curb, also no custom pan. I'm assuming you may have a connection with someone who will sell me one? Online USG email support for neo angle sent me back to uninformed home depot, and a general instruction which doesn't address how to wrap the 135 deg. angle. I'm going to call them one last time, if not I'll take my chances with kerdi membrane with a mud deck. 1 question on the USG product...if i go with the new ultralight foam, does it require full membrane, or just the seams? If it requires full membrane, should I just use fiberrock as it will probably be much cheaper? Any ideas how to do the 135 neoangle curb, I'm probably just going to borrow kerdi methods over at johnbridge, and use the sealant for any questionable corners . Thanks so much for your help!