Dog Wash...what basin/tub/pan to use?
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8 years ago
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amberm145_gw
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Would you remove a bathtub and replace with shower only?
Comments (37)Thanks Gladys1924--always good to know first hand info-- I have looked for over two hours today trying to find a tub to fit where the shower is now but even if we give up the linen closet on that wall to gain more space (and maybe not be able to place it elsewhere) I don't think it is doable... Can someone recommend a website that explains the difficulties in relocating a drain for tub or toilet or shower that is in a concrete foundation? Or can anyone give an idea of the cost to do something like that--- might be worth 1K to really get an improved layout and use less expensive materials... I posted this question about giving up a tub and only having a shower in master bath on local website in my FL area and everyone that responded (many RE agents and flippers) were in favor of giving up the tub for nice shower... so I don't know that it would hurt resale value at all......See MoreChanging tub to shower
Comments (14)"What advice can you give me on doing this. My DH plans on doing it himself." There are a few considerations, the first decision is keeping the footprint the same as the tub, which would give you a roughly 30" by 60" shower, or changing the footprint to a different size. If keeping the tub footprint, the easiest way to DIY is to not move the drain location and use a prefab "tub sized" shower tray with the drain located where the tub drain is now located. You can use that pan for your shower floor, then use cement board on the walls and tile the walls. Or if you want "really easy" then you can use an acrylic surround kit. Not the most attractive if you have a fully tiled shower in mind, but the surround kits are the easiest. If you're looking for a "nice custom walk-in shower" with different dimensions, that'll usually entail moving the location of the drain. It's certainly do-able DIY, just keep in mind branch length restrictions, to install a trap, and to pitch the branch line as needed. The newer drains are 2" drains, your older shower may have a smaller branch line. I truly and honestly feel that the easiest way to get the "best custom" shower is to use a topical membrane. Some basic steps: -Demolition. -Rough out your new shower; walls, electrical, plumbing, ventilation, etc. Relocate your drain trap and stub out drain pipe as needed. -Cement board the walls. -Plan on using a flanged drain, the new Laticrete drain or the Kerdi Drain. Set the drain at the proper elevation. -Mud the floor with a sloped layer of deck mud, usually 1-1/4" thick at the drain, and increasing by 1/4" in thickness per foot of run to the walls. Example...if you have a 4' square shower with the drain centered in the floor, you have 2' from the drain to the adjacent walls. 2' times 1/4" per foot is 1/2", so your mud thickness would be 1-1/4" thick at the drain flange and 1-3/4" thick at the walls, with a nice even slope from the walls to the drain. -Hydroban the walls and sloped floor with two coats. -Tile and grout. Much depends on what you want; an easy-to-do acrylic shower surround? Or a fully tiled, sort of luxurious walk-in shower? And probably more importantly, what your husband feels comfortable doing. How competent he is. Is he willing to read instructions, watch a few youtube videos, etc. Does he follow through on projects once started? Having a realistic time line. Finances. Best thing to do is to work through the project in your head from start-to-finish in detail, from demo to grouting. Topical membrane showers (HydroBan, Kerdi, RedGard, etc) are a little more expensive in materials. But they handle moisture much better and when built well, they will perform much much better over time. Good luck!...See MoreKohler Bathtub questions
Comments (17)I just had a Mirabelle Bradenton 60x32 alcove tub installed on very short notice; had to choose from what I could get shipped that week. Fortunately, these were displayed at several local Ferguson showroom/stores so I could try them out first (Mirabelle is an exclusive Ferguson house brand in the US; this one is made by Clarke though I don't know if they all are). I like it alot; it's a very comfortable, *deep* tub and thanks to the thin sidewalls, it's wider than most inside as well, despite the thin armrests. The backrest is sloped enough to be comfortable but not so much as to steal showering space. We just used a simple Watts overflow from Lowes held in place with a single screw; it can be detached, reinstalled upside down with the drain slot facing upward rather than at the bottom, and you get two inches of added depth that way. American Standard sells priceier replacement "deep soak" overflows that are designed to look good with the drain slot near the top. Anyway, my only complaints with the tub are that they could have made it an inch or two longer at the drain end (not a problem for you it sounds like) and the armrest is a bit higher than I'd prefer - it is at a good height to use whilst sitting up rather than lying down in the water. This is designed for a single bather, but two could squeeze in if in the same direction both on your side, if you're reasonbly small. It would be a tight fit but may suffice for occasional use. There's definitely more room inside than most tubs with the same exterior length and width. As for whether 2 can fit in a 34"w tub; usually not unless it's a single-walled freestanding tub which is almost as wide on the inside as out, or is very long so you can stretch out or sit across from each other. Kohler makes a "Tea for Two" 60"x32" alcove tub designed billed as the only 5-foot replacement alcove tub that can accommodate two people, but that's a stretch; those who've installed them say to better plan on one at a time, name unwithstanding. I've found some 36" wide tubs that will fit two comfortably, both side by side or at opposite ends; 66" or especially 72" lengths help alot here, as do double-ended designs that place the faucetry in the center, but for both facing the same way an end-drain tub can work too, and they have the benefit of more foot room at the bottom of the tub. An apron is a panel found on some alcove tubs that negates the need for a wall of tile or other material on the outside of the exposed tub wall. It's often built in, but sometimes an extra-cost option (espcially with whirlpools and air tubs). Some drop-in tubs have optional aprons as well as optional tile-in moldings. Here's an example of a tub with a front apron:...See Morehas anyone ever put their litterbox in the bathtub??
Comments (22)Yes, we do this as well. Have the litter box in the unused bathtub. It has worked great as the cat sometimes pees over the side and this keeps it from getting on rug or floor and the tub can easily be cleaned. We have not had problems with the tub drain yet. (We were at our last house for three years using flushable Swheat Scoop.) Great to just scoop the dirty litter into the nearby toilet and flush. However, we recently moved and I am developing some concerns about this system. 1. Our cat is old and seems to be experiencing some weakness in the hing legs and I am curious how hard it is for him to go in and out of the tub and am concerning some sort of step or ramp on the outside to help him out. Does anyone have any suggestions? 2. This tub was not well installed (or something) and the drain is not the lowest point. This is leading to water collecting in the low spot and it has rusted a little. Since the cat sometimes pees over the edge this can be pretty gross. Is there some kind of coating or something I could stick on the bottom of the tub to raise the low spot?...See Morekirkhall
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