NOTHING BUT TROUBLE: I bought a new one...Had it for 4 weeks & they had to replace it. The 2nd one I have had in service now for less than 2 months. Altogether I have had the service team out 6 times all total. 6 times. The unit was professionally installed. The LP Gas conversion was the first issue they said as it didn't work at all correctly. Something wrong with the unit that they simply couldn't fix. Now the Oven doesn't work right and the burners still do not work evenly with "popping" noises and changes in gas flame heights without touching any control buttons. Looks Great! Pretty Stove. But useless if you can't use it - especially for $10k. I bought ours from Fergussons in Nashville TN and their people are unable to do anything - bad service team as their technicians actually use youtube to work on the unit.....that has to be a bad issue. (NOTE: the JennAir matching dishwasher dumps water all over my new floors and cabinets. We had a full kitchen renovation) To say we are unhappy with the product is an understatement and yet it seems we are stuck with it thus far until the next steps whatever they are. Suggesion is IF you buy one....don't pay for it in full and "maybe - just maybe" you'll get better service? UNIT: JennAir - 48" RISE™ Gas Professional-Style Range with Chrome-Infused Griddle

We recently bought a house with an older Amana downdraft gas range. After cooking on electric coil then electric glass top for the last 11 years I was excited to have gas... until I cooked on it. For an old piece of junk range, the downdraft was remarkably strong. Therein was the problem: the downdraft sucks the flames inward so cooking was horribly uneven. I really wanted to go induction but there wasn't room to do an induction range plus pop up downdraft and the cost of relocating an oven to a wall and doing an induction cooktop and pop up vent was cost prohibitive, so instead we bought a new gas range and are installing (in the coming weeks!) an overhead island vent, since our range is on a peninsula. Sorry this got so long, but I have strong feelings about the darn gas downdraft after being stuck with it for the last 6 months. Funny PS - we got our new range Thursday, ahead of doing our countertops early next month. It can't be installed right away due to an issue with the location of the gas outlet thingy and also the existing counters are in the way by about 1/4 inch. I'm happy cooking with a two burner hot plate, a toaster oven and a 12 year old convection oven combo microwave. That's how much I loathe the gas downdraft.

I bought the Jenn Air 720-0061 LP from Lowes at least 12 or 13 years ago -- must have been around 2005(?) -- I remember that Lowes had a great promotion going on at the time. Anyway - I'm surprised to see the negative experiences reported here (not disputing them at all, just surprised). My own experience has been the opposite. I've had the grill outside in my backyard, and only bothered with the grill cover for part of the first winter. So this grill has lived outside in central NJ for about 13 years. It was excellent for the first few years, after which I noted that the max heat I could obtain seemed to be dropping a bit year by year. This grill actually became something of an fan item on BBQSOURCE-FORUMS.com 13 years ago: you can find threads I participated in back then under the username "Jon". In discussions with others that I "met" on the forum, I learned about proper care of the grill, and a few of us actually got into "modding" the grill as well. The grill itself was made by NexGrill. Maytag owns the Jenn-Air trademark, and licensed it for use with Lowes to promote this product line. (how's THAT for confused branding???). Many many stainless steel grills in the US are actually made by NexGrill or another one of a tiny handful of factories in China that specialize in these. Apparently, the company in the US that sources these from the Chinese factories can spec out the grade of parts used to manufacture their branded product. A lot of the "stainless steel" in products sold here are pretty low grade stainless. For whatever reason, though, it turns out that the Jenn-Air 720-0061 LP from Lowes was built with all high-grade stainless -- and there are no enameled parts. This grill, sitting outside in my yard for 13 years, uncovered, used hundreds of times, has zero rust on it -- none at all. Once I decided that it was worth trying to improve on the cooking temps I was getting with the several-year-old grill, I started by partially dismantling it, removing the stainless steel grids, the "flame tamers" (the deflectors that sit on top of the burners, but under the cooking grids), and the burners themselves -- which are made, btw, out of cast stainless steel. I found that the cooking grids are discolored, but show NO pitting, rust, etc. These are virtually like new with some scrubbing. I cleaned out the Venturi tubes that combine are and gas on its way to the burners: spiders tend to build webs in these, blocking air flow. Once I pulled out the 3 burners, I upended them and tapped them on a large rock: years worth of corroded metal powder came out -- this is natural build up over a period of years, and had also apparently been blocking air/gas flow. The flame tamers (thin steel sheet metal) are definitely corroded -- but usable for now (however, I address this further down in this note). Finally - I decided to try improving further on the max heat situation (you'll see this discussed on the BBQSOURCE-FORUMS in my thread(s) and others). Anyone who knows gas burners already knows this, but I learned that the maximum gas flow is limited by a tiny brass valve orifice: this is a small brass cylinder with a tiny hole in the middle, threaded to fit into the gas line. When you turn the knob on your grill (not the propane tank), the gas flows from the valve and then through the orifice before it can get to the burners. Turns out that if you're a bit handy, increasing the diameter of the orifice every so slightly (we're talking hundredths of an inch increase), enough extra gas flows to yield a significantly hotter flame. I searched the web and found that among all the replacement parts available for this grill, I was able to order 3 brand new brass orifices -- undrilled -- for about $2.50 each (these things are tiny -- about the size of a Tic-Tac). I drilled them out with a hand held drill to a slightly larger opening than the original and then put them and all the other parts back together. All in all, I spend about $7.50 on parts, and put in perhaps 3 hours of labor. In return, I had the original grill -- now several years old -- working better than new, achieving surface temperature of about 650 degrees F. Still all working just fine. I just did another search (Nov 2018) by grill model number, and found that I can STILL get replacement parts for the cooking grid (stainless steel or cast iron -- I prefer steel, but don't need to replace these at all yet), the flame tamers ($60 will get me three of these in stainless steel), and the burners themselves: about $75 each for an exact replacement of the original cast stainless steel items. If the igniters stop working, they can get replaced for $15 to $30 dollars. In essence, my 13 year old grill is still working well, and for perhaps $300 I can replace the burners and flame tamers - which are the ONLY parts showing signs of aging - and make this like new once again. A comparable grill, out of the same quality stainless, would cost far more than that. Admittedly, I'm handy, and like to fix things when I can rather than just trashing and replacing them. This may seem like a bit of a stretch to some readers, but nothing I did was especially difficult, and really wasn't very time consuming at all. Sure - a shiny new grill is always nice, but this one still looks excellent, and works just about like new, after 13 years, with only a small amount of maintenance effort needed. I might replace it -- but I'm wondering how much I'll have to spend to get something that works at least this well, and will last as long as this one has. - Jon

Well Maytag was worthless but a local appliance servicer called me back and said that the old "factory fix" for this evidently common problem was to restrict flow at the outlet. He said: drill a hole through the cap over the flapper, stick a 3 or 4 inch bolt in backwards (bolt head inside the cap) with a nut on the inside and a nut on the ouside. Adjust the protrusion of the bolt to hold the flapper partly closed when the fan is running. Fiddle with the bolt until you have a nice balance of exhaust vs flame pattern. Pretty good trick, thought I'd share it with any other sufferers.