National Gypsum makes a purple-faced product. It's usually used in rooms where large purple cartoon-looking dinosaurs play. Consider it a newer version of the old moisture resistant green board. It's still gypsum-based, but it's moisture-resistant, mold-resistant, it's even more abrasion and puncture resistant. And I think it's even rated as a fire board. Not sure about the fire board though. Greenboard was the "original" moisture resistant gypsum board. It's been phased out around here. Blueboard is for veneer-coat plaster. Wonderboard and Durock are cement boards. They have a cement core instead of a gypsum core. They are used as a tile backer board in wet areas like tub and shower surrounds. While the "Drywall" sheets (green, purple, blue board, etc) most commonly come in 4' by 8' sheets, the cement boards (wonder and durock) are mostly found in 3' by 5' sheets. Convenient, in that it generally takes 4 sheets to cover the three walls of a typical tub surround.

Greenboard in a shower. If IRC applies, see which year applies to your area. Basic MR/Greenboard has not been allowed as a tile backer board in wet areas like shower and tub surrounds since the 2006 IRC rewrite. Because things evolve and because outside agencies often evolve their installation guidelines more frequently than the building code is rewritten, code often refers to outside agencies for guidance and for more specific and detailed language regarding material installation. ANSI may not specifically be code. TCNA? The same. But if IRC says follow ANSI or TCNA guidelines? Then there you go. To comply with code you may have to comply with TCNA or ANSI. Often times IRC, or ANSI, or TCNA also say to refer to the manufacturer's guidance for installing their own products. To comply with code you have to comply with the manufacturer's product limitations or installation recommendations. So there is an informational layering to this, so to speak. The out take below is from the 2015 IRC, 2012 is pretty much the same except for formatting. 2012 does not have the table, but instead includes the information in the table in text format: So, does R702.4.2 specifically prohibit MR/Greenboard? R702.4.2 does not say what you CAN'T use. It says what you CAN use. If the backer board that the builder used fails to fall under one of the four allowable "Material" criteria in the table above, and fails to meet the ASTM "Standard" for that material? Then it is not allowed as a tile backer board in a wet area. You do NOT have to prove that what was used is not allowed. When asked, it's the builder that has to show documentation that it IS allowed, that the product used meets one of the criteria in the above table. It's the builder's responsibility to comply with code. It's the AHJ's responsibility to enforce that code. In the photo above, R704.2.2 also states that the backer board should be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Here's a clip from USG's basic informational sheet for one of their "green board" products. You can reference the sheet for the specific material used in the shower and see if the language is similar: #6 above says don't use basic green board as a tile substrate in a shower or tub surround and #7 above says to refer to ANSI and TCNA. Bill posted the TCNA information in his previous post. Going back to the first photo of IRC, IRC 702.4.1 also states that the tile should be installed according to certain ANSI standards. It's up to the builder/installer to comply with those standards in order to comply with code.

If you're using Wedi in the shower, that takes care of the wet area. For outside the shower, you can use moisture-resistant greenboard, or one of the paperless fiberglass reinforced boards. I don't recommend using regular drywall. Although it's often used by many installers with no issues, why use it when there are better products for use in humid areas available? Some installers dislike green board because it has a paper facing, even if it's wax impregnated. Paper is paper, and that's what mold "eats". Some installers dislike the paperless fiberglass-reinforced "mold free" boards because they may get an irritation from the fiberglass in the board during the installation. That's an installation thing only, there are no long-term ramifications. The paperless boards can be a bit more difficult to install. It's not really that they are more difficult, it's just that a bit more care needs to be taken. It's easier to overdrive a fastener, or ding the edge of a panel. The slight surface texture on the fiberglass reinforced boards can also bother some painters as it can interfere with getting a smooth painted surface. I'd recommend you ask each potential installer WHY they prefer one product over the other (with regular drywall NOT being a consideration). They may have specific reasons for your locale or climate, or because of the finish materials that will go over the board. Example, some painters think the paperless products result in painted surfaces having a slight texture because of the fiberglass reinforcement. Others don't think that's an issue at all, or they may use a high-build primer to mitigate the issue. Someone who builds in a humid coastal environment might prefer the paperless due to potential mold issues. If they do use paperless, just make sure they don't use paper tape when they mud the seams. Paying extra for a cellulose-free product, and then using tape that includes cellulose can be counterproductive. Congrats for having this discussion up front.

For a more modern log home you would pick colors the same way you would in a regular home - bring all your pieces together and draw a color out of them...if you are really feeling the country then you may want to be in sage greens, pumpkin, fall reds and things like that. I do agree - no need to paint before cabinets go in - don't rush... find colors you are drawn to and paint poster boards and hang them up and look at them for a week or so... Good luck!