48 Inch Range and 'Make UP Air'
lynn
11 years ago
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11 years agoRelated Discussions
MUA - Make up air for range hood (cross post)
Comments (5)Scott, just to elaborate on the concern I mentioned in the KF thread - that fan is rated 2,000 CFM, I see you've sized the MUA ducting accordingly, so you must be planning to use all of that flow. A 14 inch duct is about 1 sq foot, means at 2,000 CFM air will be moving through the MUA duct at 2,000 ft/min or 33 ft/sec. That seems very high, maybe too high to be realistic for passive airflow. There will be plenty of friction resistance in that 1 sq foot ductwork, and there are plenty of other ways air can flow into the kitchen through 18 sq foot openings (the doors to the kitchen), so why are you confident you'll pull air from the passive MUA rather than from the rest of the house? Suppose you do get that much airflow through the MUA duct, say with a fan. That is 2,000 CFM entering the space under the range at initially 33 ft/sec. If the space is 6" high by 48" wide i.e. that is 2 sq feet, so you can figure the air has to exit at 16 ft/sec, even if you use baffles to slow down the direct blast. That might ''blow your socks off'' or at least give you frost-bitten toes. And, will air exiting from the under-range space at that velocity and in a horizontal direction, will it really turn sharply to head up into the vent hood? Perhaps it will simply spread a frigid floor-level layer of air throughout the kitchen, while warm room air gets sucked out the vent hood. 2,000 cubic feet per minute of it. Finally, the lesson I got from that article I linked you to, in the other thread, is that turbulence and cross-flow make vent hoods less effective. That is, I think, why the article says to introduce MUA from various locations including some far away from the vent hood. So you get a smooth airflow into the hood. That's something to think about too. I imagine that fan won't actually flow 2,000 CFM in a real world vent hood, so these numbers are a worst-case, you'd recalculate using realistic outflow rate - but anyway you see my concerns....See More36 inch rangle plus single vs. 48 inch range
Comments (8)Cathy: Every situation is unique. I was in the interior design and general contracting business for years so my perspective comes with a bit more bias on the esthetics than you will typically find on the appliance forum. As mentioned, every space is unique and in some kitchens a 36" range would look out of scale and tiny. In other situations a 48" would look ridiculous. Some kitchens require a 60". In my particular case, my kitchen begged for a 48", so I went with a 48" bluestar with a grill and a griddle. In my experienced opinion it is perfect for its space. I have a 54" hood with no upper cabinets (just open shelves) on my "range wall" which helps to not make things look too top heavy with the large hood. My range wall is also aprox 12 feet if memory serves correct so the 48 inch was a natural choice as it takes a nice even third of the space. Most, if not all, wall ovens are also very modern looking but therefor date themselves so if you have a traditional style kitchen it may not look so good down the road. From a function standpoint, I would have to agree with nyc. I think you would get the most versatile setup with gas range and electric wall oven. I will say tho, that the small oven on the bluestar is a champ. In my experience it gets very even and accurate temps. It fits a standard half sheet cookie sheet. To be honest I use the small oven more often then the large one. Another point....on the functional side of the equation, a 48" allows you to have a grill and griddle if desired. If you do go 36" route, my personal recommendation would be a grill. I love being able to grill inside, and this very very very cold and harsh winter we just had in ontario just reaffirmed that an indoor grill is a blessing in cold climates. I do like my griddle as well but a portable griddle can stradle the top of two of your burners on a 36" if a griddle is desired....See MoreMUA - Make up air for range hood (cross post)
Comments (1)without any information about local weather extremes it is hard to make any comments. What works in the middle of the country can be a complete disaster in the north (cold winter) or south (hot summers)....See MoreMake up air vent location for range hood?
Comments (16)In order to begin to understand it, you would need to buy ANSI Z21.1 for about $650. There is some very technical engineering, even though it doesn't look like it, in the ventilation between walls of the oven and cooktop sides that ensures that the cabinets up against the range will not get hotter than 194°F. If you block the airflow by lowering the range (some people try modifying the feet for thin countertops that make them less than 36" tall), or putting ducts in for MUA, the outside wall of the range will get hotter. If you force that much extra air through the range, (push or pull) you change the way the gas burns, and create CO problems. Even if you can adjust the air shutters to compensate, you would then have to turn on the entire system just to make a pot of tea, in order to get enough air to get a clean burn. With holes in the floor or back wall, the natural draft intended/engineered to cool the outer walls of the range can be disrupted or diverted, leaving the heat to build up around the range - nothing to do with heat in other areas of the home. What can't tolerate more heat than the wood cabinets around the range? Another separate reason for no holes is the possibility of a gas leak. How much gas do you think that duct will hold, just waiting for someone to create a spark? The testing standards do not say no holes "unless someone thinks of some unusual excuse"....See Moreweissman
11 years agolynn
11 years agoattofarad
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11 years ago
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Trevor Lawson (Eurostoves Inc)