How should I finish my hardwood floors?

15 years ago

I've cross posted this on the flooring forum but never got an answer. Those folks must work too hard!

I am going to have site finished oak hardwood floors throughout most of the downstairs of my new home. In my former home the hardwoods were finished in a medium brown stain (I think it was called fruitwood) and topped with a satin poly. We really like the dull finish because we are not fans of the shiney stuff plus we have a dog who tends to get very rough during her "play time." So in the new build I also want a non-shiney medium brown finish. I've heard of folks who just oil their floors and don't use poly. Is this preferable? more durable? better looking? What are the pros and cons? I like the slightly worn, looks like an older house look so please don't suggest prefinished flooring.

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Comments (7)

meldy_nva
15 years ago
Some folks like tung oil, some like polyurethane which comes in satin and low-gloss as well as high gloss. Either way, I'd stain before putting on the finish coats. Both finishes are fairly hard, and scratches can be touched up without too much problem. I prefer waterlox, but there are a lot of different types available.

btw, you might find link interesting

Here is a link that might be useful: GW: tung oil floors
carolyn53562
15 years ago
I think that allison0704 has oil finished floors and dogs and you may want to send her an email asking her about her floors.
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You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood.
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I love our Land Ark oil finish floors. Very repairable for scratches. I too like the dull finish. They have a color that you mix with the first coat. I think we ended up doing 1-4 mixture. I knew the color was darker than I wanted but it was the right tone.
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We got a kick out of Tim's post (above). Call me immature --- I'm the daughter and sister of interior designers/textile weavers and they are knocked out by my glossy floors. I initially had some doubts but now I'm so glad we went with the high gloss. The light in the room is amazing with the glossy reflection of the honey oak floors. We have gotten no less than 3 requests for the name of our floor contractor because they look so gorgeous. Most people don't know why they look different --- it's because high gloss is not trendy and hasn't been for some time. Most people go with the matte or satin finish. I had concerns about the glossy floors showing dirt but it's the opposite. My floors were less glossy before we had them refinished and there really is no difference. We are still in the middle of our remodel and have had workers coming and going --- the floors are frankly filthy but you wouldn't know it until you drag a wet rag across the floor. This might be a problem with darker floors but not with the oak. I also think the high gloss has an elegant, more formal look while the matte finish is more casual/earthy. To each her or his own!
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KD = Kitchen Designer. The post is an eyesore and is also STRUCTURAL...which is why it is still there. It is holding up the BEAM that runs the length of the cathedral ceiling. The orange of the floors is a combination of several things. I *think there is a stain on there but there is also the orange tones of an oil based polyurethane. Oil based finishes turn orange all by themselves. They don't need anything else but 'dry time' to turn orange. If you cover a piece of white paper in the finish it turns orange as it dries....and that orange tone (it is called 'ambering' and is out of style right now) gets darker and darker with age. So...it is entirely possible to RIP OUT the KITCHEN (sigh...the cabs are old and they are the style that do NOT look nice when painted...cause they still look 'outdated' no matter what you do), rip out the tile-look floor, lace in new hardwood and then install a new kitchen in place. Once the new floor has been laced in, you refinish the ENTIRE hardwood so that you have a continuous match. A water based polyurethane will NOT turn orange. In fact it will allow the pale, natural wood to show through...almost a wheat colour. Whew! All that from just wanting to get away from 'orange wood' floors.
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jmwb
15 years ago
On my fir floors I used a tung oil/citrus solvent blend 50/50. 3 to 4 coats. I did not stain because the fir darkens a bit anyway. They are gorgeous. I touch up scratches with the tung oil any time, blends right in. But this finish doesn't show minor scratches anyway. But the fir is soft.
kats
15 years ago
We have unstained, wide plank, rustic, white oak floors. If you choose a light wood like white oak and stain it dark every scratch will show. Being unstained-scratches are hardly noticeable. I'm sure people are getting tired of my comparison but it's like scratching red nail polish vs clear.

For general cleaning we just use water with a tsp of vinegar (helps dry it faster). We use a special twist mop that really takes every possible drop of water off the mop. About once ever 3 months we use a "natural wood" cleaner called Woca. I'm not trying to sell that brand, it's just what we were told to use by the manufacturer. Whatever you do, make sure you use only what is recommended for your individual floor by your floor manufacturer. Our distributor used another cleaner brand on the exact floor we have which they've displayed in their showroom. I saw it 2 weeks ago and the new cleaner turned their floor a hideous GRAY!!! And I mean really...really GRAY!!! They're keeping it that way to show people what can happen.

Our Floor.....
demifloyd
15 years ago
Here is a photo of our walnut floor finished with tung oil, not long after we moved in. It's been three years and they of course look more "worn," but we love them--spot touch ups are easy and we of course have the option of sanding or just applying more tung oil, which we intend to do during the coming year.
che1sea
15 years ago
I agree that tung oil floors are great. Repairs are super easy and the finish (if it is pure tung oil) isn't shiny at all.
ajpl
15 years ago
We have 6" pine T&G planks on our floors. We used an oil product that we applied before installation. Any water that drops on the floor beads up and I try to wipe it up rioght way. Any food or mud or other mess wipes up easily with a damp cloth so far. The only thing I haven't been able to clean up is where my son left a wet swimsuit on the floor overnight and it created grey flecks in the wood. I was really freaked out but it doesn't show much now and it's in an inconspicuous spot.

I used Murphy's Oil Soap on the same floor at my old house but I used Dr. Bronner's the one time I did a full washing at the new house. I love the smell :)

How should I finish my hardwood floors?

Comments (7)

meldy_nva

carolyn53562

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