Thanks. It's too solid for a coat hanger so I think the overflow feature is permanently dead. I can stick something through the upper hole pretty far; it seems to be jammed at the opening only. Not sure, Grubby. I'm sure the old drain assembly is out. The old tailpiece has a hole although it might not have been lined up correctly. Maybe it isn't rust. It's black and hard and smelly which isn't exactly a characteristic of rust, but there were rust stains around the drain so it's rusting somewhere. (The sink is cast iron.) I don't feel the need for an overflow, so I don't NEED to save this function. Is it even possible to stop up the top overflow so that no more water gets in?

Hey weed,how do you kn,,,,,,,,,,never mind,I think I know how you know. (: OP,the flush valve(what you call overflow) is a little more involved to replace than ballcock (what you call flush valve) but certainly possible for the dedicated diyer. Only special tool required is for tightening big ol nut and a pair of large channel-loc pliers work well. The best plan is replace everything on/in the tank while it's removed. BTW,that thing is temporary at best and will fall off while you are away and run up water bill/flood septic tank.

These are replacement windows for an old rowhouse (1880s). The company who did the installation does only custom windows, so they built the windows to measurements that they took onsite. How they take those measurements, and what bearing our old walls and previous window installations might have had on them (if anything), I don't know. These are not the first double-hung windows to go in. I didn't think to measure the old trim or take any pictures that are going to be very helpful. We had this same company put in a custom door and resize a window a few years ago, and it all went perfectly, so I just counted on things rolling out the same way this time. That was a mistake; if I'd tried to understand something about windows before now and mapped out what needed to happen, this all would have gone a lot better. I do have this old real estate listing photo of the same room from 6 years ago. The original trim was quite wide, at least 3"; I notice that the old casing in the photo is about as close to the ceiling as that new 4.5" casing is. So the 4.5" might not be quite as excessive at it sounds. So the large casing is OK, I think, unless I'm missing something. I think where the issue came in is that the gentleman who measured with us for the current redo [there was a previous attempt that went badly] ordered larger casing than they had previously installed, but didn't order any replacement of stool. He thought that the casing to be ordered would be less wide than the stool that they had already installed. But that assumed the casing would go up with a small reveal. It didn't, and with a reveal 3/4" and 1", the outer edge of the casing falls about where the stool ends (and are a little past it in one case). The installation team had no instruction to replace the stool as needed. Meanwhile, my husband didn't see the problem - he saw that the more egregious errors from an earlier try were gone [there had been some trim narrower than the original put up, which left even larger reveals than what we have now, plus a gap between the wall and window] and rejoiced. At least, this is what I have pieced together from what I know. If I ask the window company to replace just the stool, is that a relatively simple fix that everyone will like to hear? Can they just remove the apron and stool? Or would they have to take most of the casing off and start over?

This is a bad install of the overflow drain fitting to the tub. There should be a gasket between the overflow and back side of the tub and some mechanical means on the inside of the tub to pull the overflow drain and gasket tight to the back side of the tub forming a water tight seal. Then, a trim piece is attached to the overflow on the inside of the tub to make things look pretty. You likely do not want to do a total tear-out to fix this, right? One solution would be to cut an access hole in the wall on the other side of the bad overflow (is that room a closet, bedroom, etc.?), remove the existing overflow from the backside and install new hardware to the tub, then install a plumber's access cover over the hole you cut in the wall. Not perfect (from the closet/bedroom side) but its typical of how things like this are repaired in an existing home.