"I think there is only one way to install the king metal components. Is there a method that is best?" King makes many any styles. Some are NOT allowed in residential (like the cable systems a child could climb or fit their head/body through). Without more detail about EXACTLY what you are trying to do, no one can give you useful advice. The best method for ANY newel post is to bolt it solidly to the side of a joist. If a joist is not in the correct spot, blocking is added to create a mounting surface as deep as the joist. Any type of toe-nailing, tow screwing, etc. or fastening to the floor or subfloor (no mater how many brackets you use) is markedly weaker. You have a solid post 3-4 feet high making a nice lever to apply loading to the fasteners. How much force will a 150 pound person create on the fasteners when they 'spin' around the newel holding with one hand?

I finally got back to this house, removed the loose Newell post, and took some photos. In the first one, you can see the KeyLock, the lag screw, and the bottom of the post itself. The block of wood is a piece of 2x4. In the second photo, I show the screw in the keylock pushed tightly upward, against another 2x4. You can see that the threads are entirely beyond the wood thickness. I think what happened is that when I complained to the builder a year ago, he disassembled the installation and put a longer screw, not realizing that the unthreaded portion was too long for the application. It seemed tight but shortly it loosened. When it happened again, he said "I don't guarantee my work forever", so I decided to investigate. I screwed the lag screw farther in and it seemed tight, but after a few days of kids going down the stairs, it loosened again. I took it apart again, and came to the conclusion I described above. I can think of two ways to fix this: find a larger lag screw with larger threads but the same size head, and only 1/2 inch unthreaded part, also the same size, or remove the 2x4 piece and replace it with a new one. Perhaps just a newly installed, shorter lag screw (like the one in the KeyLock link shown in post one, will be tight enough; or put a 1/2" T-nut on the back side of the 2x4 and use a 1/2" bolt. Or, put in a piece of 4x4. One problem is that the old part is glued in so getting it out is tricky, but not impossible, with my tools. To answer thatsmuchbetter, the post is hollow. I'm not sure what you mean climate controlled - it has heat in the winter, but no A/C Suggestions?

Don't shoot the messenger! Joseph Corlett may be blunt, but he is trying to rethink your situation before you spend even more money chasing an idea that will not look right. It is unfortunate that you did not get such a blunt answer before you spent time and money pursuing this scheme. It is your house and you can do whatever you can talk the GC into doing and the inspector into approving but that does not make it attractive or practical or increase your house's market value You already know there is an issue with your original plan or you would not have posted your question. Step back from the emotional side and read the answers you are getting. All the money you have spent is a sunk cost and continuing on the same path will not change that fact. Evaluate where you are and move forward with a good plan using the right material for the project

Thank you so much for posting! I really appreciate your boost! That is the plan for the newel as well. :) I like what you did a lot! The handrail - did it go okay from the catalog? It looks really well done! Not sure if you remember this part but there are just a few profiles and I am just checking that you got one of those or had that also custom? Because the fits over caps beautifully is starting to be delicate to me. You have super beautiful caps all on beautiful newels I see!!