exhaust fan vent to attic or outside?
dixieinmotorcity
12 years ago
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Emily
12 years agoRelated Discussions
What material to vent a bath exhaust fan from the basement?
Comments (10)Thanks for the suggestions. Text communication being what it is, I may have been misunderstood on a couple of points. The reason for not wanting to vent near the porch or under windows has nothing to do with appearance from the street, but rather what I thought was a more obvious objection to moisture and odor wafting in through open windows during the warmer months, or making the porch a less enticing place to relax or entertain when the bath is in use. I confess to being a bit fussy about details, so if I did go through the roof, I wanted the vent to be in the same line as the other two bath vents, which are a couple feet apart in the same shingle row, thus the offset in the attic. Another Q/A site suggests that the worst two places to vent a bath is 1) into the attic, even if under a ridge vent, and 2) under a vented soffit. The site "expert" instead recommends going through the roof, though the bath in this case is on the highest floor. The two existing baths have vented through the roof for many years with no apparent issues. The runs are relatively short, the duct is insulated and the vents themselves have dampers. Enough warmth seems to escape to keep snow clear around the vents. The clothes dryer also vents through the roof as the alternative would be to vent directly out to the front porch, which would create a nice steamy fog on cool days, not to mention the moisture rising up through the porch ceiling vents. Again, no apparent issues after years of use. Having said all of this, I appreciate the concern about running a duct from the basement to the roof. If I can find a path to an acceptable point along the rimjoist, I'll take it....See MoreBathroom fan vents to the top of the attic, not outside
Comments (5)Mary, Handymac's advice leads me to bring up one more point. People who post on the forum are, obviously from varying geographic locations. As such, we build under different codes and regulations. You mention that you have no specific code that you fall under. I'm in CT and fall under the IRC. For a bit of guidance, the IRC 303.3 states: Code Requirement: * Minimum ventilation for the bathroom is to be a window of at least 3 sq. ft. of which 50% is operable, or a mechanical ventilation system of at least 50 cubic feet per minute (cfm) ducted to the outside. (IRC R 303.3) There are always state and local amendments or variances to a national code, but in a heating environment, which I'm in, I wouldn't intentionally vent warm moist air into an attic space. I've seen too many wintertime cases of it condensing on the cool underside of the attic sheathing or on the exposed shingle nail points, then dripping down. Much depends on the age, air tightness, and climate that the house is in, as well as the amount of moisture being generated, the effectiveness of the fan in evacuating it, and physical size of the attic in comparison to the amount of moisture being vented. In the end, for me it simply comes down to code. IRC requires bath vent fans to be vented to the outside. Best, Mongo...See Moreattic exhaust fan recommendation?
Comments (26)So, let me get this straight: you guys seem to be saying that a powered attic vent will: 1) possibly cause a negative pressure in the attic space, also possibly drawing cool air from the living space 2) not decrease the attic temperature significantly I'm thinking you are using some seriously fuzzy logic/math here. As for the "research" posted... the pdf I read was not even worthy of being posted. The other link has expired. Consider these points: 1) According to building codes, an attic space should already have soffit vents and ridge vents at a rate of one pair per 150-300 sq. feet of attic space. So that equals at least 5 square feet of wide open venting, not including a gable vent at the opposite end of the attic. If this is the case, there is NO WAY that a significant negative pressure will occur on the living space unless you have some serious holes in your ceiling. A 1600 cfm powered gable vent is going to pull it's air from these existing vents, or, ideally, from a gable vent at the opposite end of the attic. While ridge vents are indeed designed to exhaust air, they will also allow intake of air. It's just a hole. So this talk of backdrafting in furnace units in the basement (two floors away?) is just silly. Adequate attic venting as required by standard building codes is enough to eliminate this risk. If this venting is not already present, this will of course need to be remedied. But to assume that a negative pressure situation will be typical situation if a power vent is used is erroneous. 2) As for not reducing temperatures significantly, if the fan thermostat is set at 90 degrees, it WILL reduce attic temperatures and keep them lower. Let's say you have about 1500 sq. feet of attic to vent, or roughly about 9000 cubic feet of air volume. A 1600 cfm fan will completely exchange the attic air every 6 minutes or so. If the air enters the attic at 90 degrees from outside, it is NOT going to go up 30 degrees in 6 minutes. That just makes zero sense. The key is to have the vent come on at a lower temperature to ensure that temps don't have a chance to climb to 120 or more. As far as electricity consumption, a powered attic vent pulls considerably less than an a/c unit. I don't have any links for you. Just using common sense....See Moreventing bathroom exhaust fan
Comments (2)The main reason is laziness and cost. What they should have done is installed an insulated 4 inch flexible duct to a capped roof vent. It needs to be insulated so the warm air does not condense in the winter and drip into the fan. Your old fan probably got rusty because there was no roof cap and the duct was not insulated....See Moreadvertguy2
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