Well as I have said in previous post's on both this forum and other The 3oinch can do the Job but you may have to go over the new ground more than once. The Hydraulic tiller may even take more than one pass the first time. The mechanical tiller is like having a walk behind but it is mounted. The hydraullic tiller weights 265lbs for the GX300 or X500 series The 30inch weights 145lbs. Here is what Deere says about the 42inch tiller " It is wider than the 30inch Mechanical tiller More compact and less costly than the 647 Tiller" and he is what Deere also says "The 42inch reversible-tine tiller includes self-contained hydraulic reservoir,pump and motor to run tine shaft. it offers the distinct advantage of being much quieter than conventional chain- driven tillers,plus housing mounting points can be reversed for back tilling(tines rotate in opposite direction of tractor wheels and tires)Back tilling is generally used for breaking new ground and cultivating harder,compacted soil" Now if you reverse the housing around remeber to go slow as slow as you can when back tilling. To tell you the truth The Hydraulic tiller is more versitible than the 30inch mechanical tiller because you can back till with it. Which is another reason I bought mine for my X485 and I didn't want a 48inch wide(647) tiller mostly for storage space. I had a JD 425 with a 450 tiller which took up alot of room. Go with the 42inch Hydraulic tiller You will not regret it Except maybe when your mounting it. I have a 3point so it pretty easy. Where yours will be a frame mount. all I have done to my Hydraulic tiller is change the filter and Hydraulic fluid every two years and had to replace on cotter pin I have had it since spring 2004. The 30inch tiller can do it but it will take longer and several passes in that New York soil Which is what it took me with the soil conditions around Fort Drum and around Watertown New York which was alot of Clay and rocky soil it was a 30inch mounted on a JD240. The Hydraulic tiller for the most part will till throught ground like it's butter. I till over 3acres twice a year with my Hydraulic tiller and do other tilling projects for neigbors. I Actually have two Hydraulic tillers the other is a 30inch Hydraulic tiller mounted on a 2002 Cub Cadet 2206 which the wife uses for her Flower garden plots. Just saying in the past I made do with the 30inch mechanical tiller and it can do the job. But now that I have the Hydraulic driven tillers I would never go back to the Mechanical driven tillers. So I hope this helps I vote for the 42inch Hydraulic driven Tiller and good luck with this years Garden plots and projects. Here is a link that might be useful: 42inch tiller

Moraflauta: For the Broan MUA systems, have a look at these links: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/appl/msg010822599493.html?6 http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/appl/msg0313214523464.html?40 The second link is titled "Braun" but they meant "Broan." For finding contractors, I'd start with my local government's building department/code enforcers and find out if they've ever inspected any kitchen hood MUA systems -- if so, ask who did the work. Also, I would try calling any local retailers who sell higher-capacity range hoods (if anybody local sells them). Also, there have been discussions here at GW where folks have owned-up to using exterior-venting 400 cfm OTRs with pro-style ranges. Heck, if your stove is against an exterior wall, you could even vent the existing OTR and work with that for a while. Almost any overhead vent-set-up will do a better job than the downdraft and recirculating vents you now have. A 400 CFM hood would be better, even if not as good as the venting could be. We have to work within our budgetary, spatial and architectural constraints, Wekick: Specifically I would love it to go low enough to -hold an 8 qt pot of mashed potatoes in enameled cast iron. Can you do that with your Wolf range? I've done that with induction but very low gas flames seem a little too concentrated to evenly heat the cast iron base on my LC enameled CI when I've got mashed potatoes in them. Of course, the burners will do the stupid melt-chocolate-on-a-paper-plate trick and I haven't needed a double boiler for years even with my previous GE DF range. Holding mashed potatoes on a gas stove-top is the one task for which I've needed a dispersion plate/disk/flame tamer. Todd or any of you folks with a BS or AR have any better luck with the star-shaped open burners on your ranges? Maybe I just don't put enough butter and cream in my mashed potatoes? ;>) This post was edited by JWVideo on Tue, Feb 4, 14 at 16:23

Stupid, stupid, stupid... the new code and the fasct that your PB did not inform you of this during the design stage. My PB put the two drains on the bottoms of the sides, therefore getting the required 3 feet of space between them. If you want the extra seating, and why wouldn't you, then have him do this. The disadvantage to this is that in order to fully drain the tub, you have to manually do something to suck out the last 2 or 3 inches of water. And the drains do not suck up anything that is not floating w/in the water column, so you have to vacuum the tub floor more often to get rid of the heavy dirt.

In general: I have had open and closed burner gas tops and closed are 100% easier to clean, I would never never get open unless I had daily cleaning help. The BTU rating on the highest burner is important, as well as a very small BTU simmer burner. I also need continuous grate to slide a pot over, and prefer mechanical knobs to electronic keypads. There are some cooktops where the grates are too high off the burners and there are complaints of a feeling of under-powered burners despite the BTU rating. I think this whole open burner for the home thing is nothing short of ridiculous, it is more of a high volume restaurant issue, but his is gardenweb... I do not like the performance of gas ovens. I like electric and I love the functionality of convection. I would never buy an oven without convection. So I would vote for closed burner gas cooking and electric ovens.