The zone that includes 8' above and 3' next to the tub/shower is the area to be concerned about. If outside of that area the fixtures are not required to be wet or damp location listed.

Incorrect... Non wet or damp rated pendants ARE allowed above the shower, however the bottom of the fixture MUST be more than 8'-0" ABOVE the top rim of the shower. They CANNOT be less than 8'-0" above the rim. ie: your shower stall is 10'-0" tall. The code requires an EXTRA 8'-0" of clearance, this brings the height to 18'-0" The pendant, cord connected fixture, etc. CANNOT be located between the 10'-0" mark and the 18'-0" mark but MUST be mounted higher. A pendant fixture mounted at 19'-0" above the finished floor over the shower would pass. Granted the inspector would take out his measuring tape to make sure. This just means the ceiling directly over your shower has to be a minimum of 21'-0", depending on the pendant length. Some homes DO have this height...

Very happy to find "Ace Hardware pine bark mulch", which are well-composted this Oct, and have plenty of pine-fines inside. I make my rooting-area in advance for next spring .. by that time the pine-mulch/pine-fines will be more decomposed & less acidic. The rooting powder that Bluegirl mentioned helped TREMENDOUSLY. Things take roots much faster. Do you make a slit at the side of the lower cane like Connie of Hartwood? Or do you slice a piece of outer-layer off like Kitty of California? I'm too lazy, so I do it California way, scrape a vertical piece off from the end, with my paring knife. For indoor & winter: I still don't like covering the plant with a plastic dome, it goes against my logic: cover anything up, and it will surely rot & get moldy !! My kid sprouted some mung-bean in a plastic cup, she covered it, and within a few days white mold grew on it, so gross !! This winter I plan NOT to cover with plastic, and simply squirt the soil lightly with a hand-mister. My neighbor kept a geranium through the entire winter. In freezing March I visited her: she kept the geranium on the window-sill (morning sun), and squirt it twice a day. And it was blooming tons !! I kept house-plants indoor in the winter and was foolish to water it, that was messy: water dripped on carpet, then whiteflies, then rotted stem (too wet). Hand-mist lightly is so much better, since leaves do take up water & nutrients .. same with stem I also put hydrogen peroxide inside my hand-mister to prevent rot. Bluegirl shared how Josh in TX put a paper towel on top of the rooting area to hold in moisture, great idea !! I'm convinced that hard-wood and thick cuttings NEEDS MUCH LESS MOISTURE. Versus the "greener & thinner" stems which dry out faster, thus need more moisture. The "alfalfa sprouts" type of root need constant moisture ... folks do keep alfalfa sprouts in a plastic pouch at grocery store. But the woody & chunky Dr.Huey-rootstock rots easily in poor-drainage clay. As own-root matures from "alfalfa sprouts" to hard and woody roots, they become more sensitive to standing-water and acidity.

I don't think tubes are going anywhere in the near future, just look at the number of commercial establishments that use them. Sure an LED tube, but it's the same fixture. It's just a bugaboo of mine but I see, what I call, "boob lights" at the local home center that have all been "converted" to LED. The LED is going to fail at some point and what's the average homeowner going to do? Replace it with another boob light? How about just replace a $2 bulb? Don't get me wrong, I'm all in favor a new technology, when the technology is beneficial. Those flat LED panels meant to replace a traditional troffer are great if you doing a basement with a drop ceiling and every inch of headroom counts. Otherwise, why bother?