To replace the tub.

No, I will not insist on the installer replacing the tub. It is impractical for a myriad of reasons.

SO: what is the correct way to repair a scratch on a new tub?

Thanks,Dan

Believe me, I don't like the answer any more than you do, Dan, but there really isn't any permanent fix for a scratch like that. I know. I lived a long time in a place where a plumber dropped a screwdriver point down in the tub. We tried every single one of the many repair compounds and they all fail sooner or later.

I wasn't being hoity-toity. There just isn't any way to fix it except to replace the whole thing, and you may well prefer just to live with it the way it is. We did (but at least our tub wasn't brand new.)

Thanks for the replies, and writersblock, sorry for my flippant reply to what I (erroneously) thought was a flippant reply!

Of all the really bad alternatives to replacement, which is the least bad?

Live_wire_oak writes of difficult to match two part epoxies and to etch it (it being the damaged area?). How does one etch it? As stated, the scratch is on the top of the tub exactly in the area exposed when one swings in or out the 24" glass door (yet to be installed) to climb into/out of the tub. The scratch is not all the way through to the cast iron. It is in an area that will collect dirt, water and dust and have maximum foot traffic.

Thanks,

Dan

If you switch instead to sliding glass frameless doors, perhaps the track will cover it. Still a nice look, and a lot less than the other glass option, but a bit less high end looking.

It may seem now that is only superficial, but there is a reason that the coating is thick on the cast iron.... rust! Between normal wear and cleaning, you may find that you've worn down to the iron faster than you'd believe and rust will begin in that area.
I'd give the manufacturer a call and see what their opinion is on repairs. But if it were me, I'd have them replace the tub.

Dan, that's a tough call. The epoxy does last a bit longer, as live_wire_oak said, but the etching involves wrecking an even bigger area to create tooth for it to grab to, so it looks a million times worse when it fails. Another problem is that if it begins to leak before it chunks out, it's holding water in there, which is going to make problems when it starts getting ready to rust.

The painty-type fixes don't make anything worse, but I've also seen them fail the very first time the tub is used after the cure period, sometimes. It's just all not good. We eventually opted to keep painting, but it wasn't in any way a good solution.

I'd definitely give the manufacturer a call and see what their best suggestion is. Maybe there's some new miracle product we don't know about. I hope.

Thanks, I'll do as you suggest. BTW: manufacturer is Kohler, tub is white and model is Villager K-715.

Will report back if I find anything of interest out.

Thanks for all the advice,

Dan