You should have enough space to have a tub and a shower, depending on the size of vanities, placement of doors, whether you need a toilet enclosure and where the existing plumbing is located. It may be tight, esp. if you want a decent sized shower. Moving the toilet is a PITA. The more plumbing you keep in its original spot, the cheaper it will be. For a quick and dirty (and free) mock up you can use the arrange-a-room tool at BHG. First you specify your room size (unfortunately, their minimum room size is 8 feet by 8 feet, so you'll have to specify a room size of 11 by 8 and ignore one foot of it). Then you pick from among a variety of plumbing fixtures (look in furniture and select bathroom. You'll find toilets, sinks, vanities, corner and regular showers and tubs, etc.). You can also add windows and doors (look in architectural items) You can rotate all of the fixtures, specify sizes, etc. by clicking on info once you drag the fixtures into the room. The program allows you to save, retrieve and print out up to 25 designs. Nothing too sophisticated, but it's easy and it does the trick. Here is a link that might be useful: arrange a room

@jewelisfabulous - ahh, so nice to have a window! I'd like to hang artwork, but I'd be a bit concerned it might fall and damage our new tub! @monicakm_gw - thank you taking the time to attach a photo. What a serene bath tub you have! You just gave me a great idea for the 3 walls that will be bare since we won't be tiling all the way up to the ceiling. A towel rack would look great on the back wall :) 1. Did you mean your tub is 19" in height (from the floor)? 2. If it's not too much trouble, I'd love to see what your faucet for the bath tub looks like!

It may not be popular to say this, but I'm going to. Yes, waterproofing is important but it's become a popular "thing" to hyper-focus on the full surface waterproofing. Full surface waterproofing, in my opinion, has become necessary, in part, due to the lowering of construction practices (cost cutting/low skill) while building showers. Yes, in recent years we are seeing more failures in showers, but not in old homes. Sadly, they are primarily recession era remodels. You wouldn't believe the showers we have torn out in historic homes where everything, back to the studs, insulation, etc. were bone dry! And those had no liquid waterproofing (not around in those days). But, of course we were doing mud walls, etc. back in the day. Methods have changed. BUT, the primary failures today are not actually the result of inadequate waterproofing on walls. They are the result of pan failures or improper wall board (green board, drywall, etc. that absorbs moisture and breaks down over time). We do a mud pan system with pan membrane and up all corners, and curb and seats, etc. with that membrane as well, where water is most likely to penetrate so the h2o would drain back to floor pan liner. And yes, the lovely surface waterproofing on top (except in steam showers = no no for other reasons). and we do minimal grout joints. My point is that, we need to focus less on the red stuff, and more on the other materials and methods for pan, corners, and curb, etc. It is what is UNDERNEATH that is your real risk for failure. Sorry daduran for the old school rambling here. As for the contractor who doesn't use caulk at change of planes, gone. As for the NTCA member (we are too), memberships can be a good thing but we recently did a little research locally on certain NTCA certified members and were surprised with our findings. You are wise to do the vetting that you are, and take all considerations into account. In the long run, many years of experience and the respect of both long term clients (multiple projects for the same client?), and the recommendations from other quality trades who know their work is a solid approach to your vetting. Good luck with your project.

I guess I had just been looking at Lowe's and HD to see that a porcelain tub is $255 and acrylic is $250. I figured that was pretty darn cheap and don't see a reason to not go that route. I'll have to look into cast vs regular steel to see what the price difference is. If it's big I'm not sure that I'm willing to spend a big chunk but I'll have to discuss it with my wife.