I decided to purchase an NXR DRGB3001 after reading the reviews and there was a couple of reviews where several owners experienced the oven enamel paint chipping off and rust appearing. This kind of worried us but the positive reviews out weighted the few negative ones. We even when to to a local place to check it out and didn't see any of the chipping issues mentioned in the blogs. After owning the range for a week, ours also had the chipping enamel paint issue. When the stove was installed, we didn't see these areas at all. Only after using the oven a few times did we notice that there were blue paint chips on our food. It got really bad after a few uses of the oven and the blue enamel just started coming off by itself. the biggest chip was over 1" long and about 1/2" wide. There are now over 7 chipped areas in the stove after 3 uses. The over worked perfectly as far as the burners were concerned. It took a lot of calls to the store where we purchased if from to get them to even call us back. And we're in the middle of trying to get this thing returned to them, but only after raising holy hell. A $1900 stove that has enamel quality problems is a major safety issue in our opinion. Paint chips are falling into the food and if you don't catch them, you end up eating them and I can't imagine that being good for anyone's health. But others have not have problems in this area. But a few of us have had the same safety issue if you search the NXR reviews long enough. So there does seem to be a manufacturer defect with the blue enamel interiors that a number of us are finding. I would not recommend this stove to anyone as the service is terrible from the manufacturer. Leaving message after message and they will not return your calls at all. We're having to raise holy hell with the place we bought it from to try and get this thing returned. We may have to file a lawsuit if they don't take it back. After this experience, made in China says a lot to us. I guess you get what you pay for despite the parts being from other countries. It's not the burners from Germany that is the issue - they work really nice. In our opinion, it's the build quality of the stove from China that's the issue. Aside from the oven enamel issue, the left hand exterior panel's fit and finish is not the same as the right hand sides. The gap is twice as big and it pops up a bit more and is not flush. But for the savings over the Wolf, I can live with that, but not the safety issue of the paint flaking off on your food. I hope this helps others make up their minds and they don't have to go through the mess we're going through. It seems to be hit or miss with this issue. Good luck with your decision...

Here's what I posted in you other thread about hot doors: If you've seen other posts, you've probably seen my comments on the subject of hot oven doors and sides. To summarize: the stove will be a lot hotter during the intial burn-in than later. After a wee's worth of using my NXR DRGB3001 model, the hottest spots (and they were just spots) were about 140F-145 --- that's the center of the "toe-kick" right in front of the glow-plug end of the oven baking element. There were a couple of areas of around 130F and most of it (including the oven glass) was only around 95F to 105F. My tehory is that that the burn helps the insulation set. So, no apparent fire hazards on the sides. As for the top center panel, I have to say I have not checked recently. I bought the optional center grate which stands over the center panel, As weissman says, pro-style stoves do stick out a bit further than other stoves. Your photo looks like what I see in my kitchen. Actually, I had not noticed this before. Now, as for the broiler, bear in mind that there is an infrared panel. It takes longer to get it red hot and the ignitor does stay on for a while. When I've run broiler for a long time, (as for a recent marathon pizza baking session), the broiler ignitor in my NXR it does go off and then cycles operates more like the baking burner. As for the oven door, mine does have 3/8 gap at the top and 1/4" gap down on the sides, and both sides are slightly but equally proud of the side frames by maybe 3/32" top and bottom and right and left. Sounds like one of your oven door hinges might not be seated seated quite right. See bmorpanic's thread on the oven door for some discussion of setting the correctly ourself. Or, better yet, get warranty service to fix it and watch how they do it so you can fix it yourself if you ever need to remove the oven door. The trim piece/kick panel should not be jiggling. It will have a bit of flex to it, so you can press or pull on it and get it move a bit. But it should not jiggle. As bmorepanic says, tighten the base screws. On my DRGB3001, the screws are horizontal not vertical as shown in the diagram above. They are at the bottom of the lower, coved part of the trim/cover. They are readily accessible from the front of the stove. Use a #2 Phillips driver (which is the one most people have in their tool kits and the Phillips bit they most likely have for a cordless drill). If the screws are underneath the cove (parallel to the legs) you'll need a very short driver to to get at them.

I think the process might be a little different although, now that I think of it, WisteriaPath might be able to replace the filler strips without having to completely slide the top off the range. If I recall correctly for my DRGB3001 -- I got these instructions from Duro Customer Service some time ago and can't find my notes, so this is coming from my admittedly faulty memory --- you start by taking off the backsplash/vent/riser (5 screws) which exposes the back end of the top and the screws which hold down the back end(s) of the spacer(s) (what WisteriaPath called mouldings). Take out those screws. Go around to the front of the stove and pull the knobs. Open the oven door, kneel down and look up at the bottom of the control panel piece. You will see screws that fasten it to the frame. Remove those screws. You can now move the control panel out of the way. Look up to the underside of the top and see the bent tabs holding down front end(s) of the spacer/moulding(s). Pry those back to where you can pull the spacer/moulding. If you do need to remove the entire top, you'll need to take out the burner ignitor posts (otherwise, they block the top from sliding back.) If memory serves, you have to reach in through the front and back openings you have exposed to get to the underside of the bases and take off the wires and the nuts that hold the ignitors in place. Once they are removed, I think you can then slide the top out the back. Reassembly is the reverse. This post was edited by JWVideo on Thu, Nov 6, 14 at 11:34

Answers: 1) In the beginning I was paranoid about every little scratch. Small scrathces come out easily with Bar Keeper's friend and one of those "gentle" blue scrubbie sponges. Then one day my DH used a "rough" green scrubbie instead. He scratched the center SS area badly. I was so upset!!! However, after 5-6 weeks of use, and regular cleaning, the bad scratch has blended somewhat. I expect it will continue to do so. I have never had a SS range before, so I can't comment on the scratching in comparison to to other ranges. However, I was very aware when we were shopping for ranges, of the scratches. I noticed that the GE Cafes in most showrooms had the worst and deepest scratches. Perhaps that's only because more people were looking at them, moving the grates, etc? If you expect it to stay absolutely pristing, showroom condition, you're going to have to be extraordinarily careful )like, don't cook on it!) but personally, I like a little lived-in feeling. That's why I got marble countertops, which had etching and scratches after the first 2 days, despite babying them! 2)My range is rock solid. It is very very heavy. It has easily adjustible feet. 3) The seams could be easier to clean... but it's not awful. I have yet (after, what, 10 months use?) to get out a toothbrush because I can't clean the grooves.... that may happen at some point but so far, the corner of a sponge has worked just fine. To me, it's one of the trade-offs that I just didn't feel justified spending an extra $1000. 4) Not at all!!!!! What would be the result of something being too far away? The flames hit the bottom of my pans just right. I get a VERY hot flame, or a VERY low simmer... no problem. 5) The only pan I have a problem with is my tiny saucepan. The bottom is about 5" wide. On medium to high flame, the flame is too large for the pan. It is fabulous on the low (smaller) simmer though. I do still use this pan for rice, since that amount of time it needs to be on the outer flame ring is so short, and then it gets turned down to the smaller inner flame for most of the cooking time. And its great for melting butter or chocolate of course. 6) See above. Simmer is the smaller inner burner. In most cases this is wonderful. The only time it's not is when simmering in my hugest pan... I feel I stir a little more often since the flame is concentrated in the center of such a large pan. The burner works like this: As you turn the dial counter clockwise: you start at high, a high flame from the outer burner ring AND a high flame from the small inner ring. As you decrease the dial, the outer flame diminishes. At about 6:00, the outer flame turns off, and you're just on the inner flame, which continues to decrease until you get the barest whisper of a flame on low. The transition between the two is the only place where it's not perfectly, infinitley adjustable. This is about Medium, I'd say. Occasionally, with some pans and some contents, I need to switch between the two to maintain the proper cooking temp over time. I'd recommend you go try one out in a showroom if you can. I think you'll be very impressed with the burners. I caompared them side by side with a Capital Range and the NXR was far nicer, IMHO....