Whta product to use to stain cedar posts and garage doors...
pps7
13 years ago
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Comments (13)
pps7
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Exterior stain for cedar siding (whole house)?
Comments (3)I have a cedar sided house that I'm staining myself. I'm in the middle of a kitchen remodel too, and the "budget" (a term we now use only accompanied by bitter laughter and/or tears) wouldn't permit me to hire someone when I am capable of doing that particular job myself. At any rate, I've tried a couple different products and done a fair amount of checking around, and I've settled on Sikkens. We get it at a Benjamin Moore store very near the house. Ours is a solid, instead of a semi-transparent, but I'm still comfortable recommending this particular brand. I'm getting one-coat coverage over a dark brown, and I really expected to have to go with 2 coats. (When you're the painter, that makes a huge difference!) It's clear to me from how it goes on and the richness of the color that it's the best thing we tried. I've seen lots of good reviews by homeowners as well. So, one vote for Sikkens....See MoreHelp!!! Cetol 1 on cedar garage doors
Comments (6)Respectfully disagreeing with JH on "Mill Glaze"... EVERY deck-stain & Interior stain I've ever dealt with stresses light sanding to remove the slight "polishing" ("Glazing" effect) that wood undergoes when it goes through the planers. >>> Sometimes it's visible...sometimes not... It's just a simple fact of the wood-finishing/manuf. process. Wood re-finshers I know, and many dedicated woodworking magazines, etc., speak to this very issue. The glazed effect can vary noticeably...ON THE SAME BOARD...when staining. * Glazed areas don't absorb much stain, because the wood cells have been polished. * More "open-grain/unglazed" areas take in much more stain. * Therefore, noticeable color-variance is routinely evident. Sikkens Not UV-stable?! Well dude...technically speaking...NOTHING on this planet that's semi-transparent is 100% UV-stable. It's just not possible. If you can see the woodgrain, so will the Sun's UV-rays! Wood WILL suffer UV-degredation. Even solid paint suffers after a few years. For those who want to see their nice wood doors, Sikkens is one of the few things out there that has a nice sheen, and holds up for a while. There's a LOT of nice garage doors around here with Sikkens on-'em...and we go through a lot of Sikkens. No complaints here. Throw some FACTS out there for a change JH... Faron...See MorePrep to stain cedar garage door?
Comments (0)Hello, helpful forum people! I'm not sure it is completely appropriate to be posting this on the "Porches and Decks" forum, but based on my reading of previous posts, I expect that I will find the most expert advice for my job here. I have a large, custom garage door that I am refinishing. It is made from cedar siding that had horizontal grooves milled into it that are about 1/4 inch wide and 3/8 inch deep. It produced a horizontal-slat appearance on the face of the door. When the door was originally installed, it was stained and then sealed with two coats of polyurethane. At that time, it was a beautiful door. Many people complimented me on it and some even stopped to ask how it was constructed. Within 6 months to a year, it was showing serious wear and the compliments stopped! Now, 1 1/2 years later, I am refinishing it and am hoping to come up with a longer-lasting finish. I've had the old finish sanded off -- a trick in itself because it was very labor intensive to sand the groves. It appears that the original stain did not penetrate deep into the wood, because it now looks like new wood. Based on information on this forum and others, I intend to use TWP 1500 -- one of the darker colors like Black Walnut or Dark Oak. I suspect that the workers used a fine grit sandpaper, so my plan is to have them go over it again lightly with 80 grit to better prepare the wood to absorb the stain. My question is, do I need to do any further preparation before I apply the stain? 1. Can I simply brush the dust off the surface, or perhaps used compressed air? 2. Since it looks like new wood and has been sanded, I don't need to use the cleaner and brightener such as Restore-A-Deck, do I? 3. I see that some people talk about wiping the surface with a solvent saturated rag to wipe up any dust before applying the stain. Is that a good idea? 4. And lastly, do I have a good plan in general? Anything that I should consider doing differently.....or, heaven forbid, that I should have done differently already?! Thanks for the information that many of you have already provided in helping to educate me and many others. And thanks in advance for any advice on my particular project! This post was edited by sanfranman12 on Thu, Oct 24, 13 at 15:35...See Morerefinishing antique exterior cedar door - need help
Comments (2)I just used Cetol Door and Window on a fiberglas door and a pine Andersen window. It looks good on the door, but the window just *glows*! Since I just did the door a few weeks ago and just put the 3rd coat on the window this AM I can't tell you how it will weather, but it was highly recommended by Faron who usually posts on Home Decorating and Paint forums. Now Sikkens doesn't recommend using just the clear Cetol on areas with high UV exposure, I don't know if they would say 3 coats of clear over your stain is fine or would talk you into using 1 or more coats of one of their tinted Cetol finishes. Tech Support was very helpful with instructions for finishing the fiberglas door (not on their website). Why don't you give them a call? The pine window is vinyl clad, I just used the Cetol on the garage side since it's exposed to temp swings, but not too much UV and no precipitation, so I felt the clear was fine (since I had it left over from the door). My door is finished with a very dark thick Zar stain, so I didn't want to put a tinted topcoat on. It's also under a porch. Faron just suggested keeping ahead of any damage, so depending on UV exposure (esp. at the bottom of the door), you may have to wash the door and put another coat on every 3 years or so....See Morejoyce_6333
13 years agothebuilder
13 years agoculater94
13 years agoUser
13 years agoWe used Sikkens on our cedar garage doors. The cedar beams were stained with a cabot stain.
nutherokie_gw
13 years agopps7
13 years agoculater94
13 years agoHere are two examples one of the 1 2/3 cedar, and 1 2/3 teak
3 Coats of the teak on Fir
3 Coats of teak on Knotty Alder
1 Coat of Cedar Cetol 1, 2 Coats of Natural Cetol 2-3
Lighting not best in pic
User
13 years agoThanks for the compliments...
The garage doors are cetol 1 / 23. They are holding up fine...but they were stained less than a year ago. The color is a mixture of dark oak and ebony (a color they seem not to publicize). We did the custom mix to try to match the walnut exterior doors. See picture below.
The brick is Glen Gary handmade Brandywine.
pps7
13 years agogreif
13 years ago
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