About 15 years ago we moved in to a ranch and noticed the brick masonry fireplace had been converted to gas. We used it for a year and decided we just really didn't like it. So we capped the gas and donated the ceramic logs and fake "coals" underneath and made it into a wood burner again, though we kept the glass doors. We used them a ton and really liked how it kept down (reduced, definitely did not eliminate) the cold air coming down into the house when we weren't using the fire. We had an energy person come in and assess the fireplace, and he said it was so bad to have the glass doors there but nothing else that he recommended putting some sort of insulator over the fireplace when it wasn't in use. Haven't seen any of that but it got me thinking and now I'll have to look for something more efficient. Now we bought an old tri level that had a big fireplace in the lower level. We took it out but saved the insert. Now we realize we really want a wood-burning fireplace again, for all the reasons listed by jujubean, so we'll likely sell the insert on Craigslist. I thought we'd just have someone come in and build one adjacent to our living room on the main level (the other side of that wall is the garage) and now that I see the FMI Georgian I'm thinking that maybe we can just buy one of those and have the fireplace folks put in the rest. We also have a tile roof and aren't sure how to get an opening through that puppy. Finally, the wood burning fireplace is only allowed as a grandfathered one in this city. One can only put a gas fireplace in now, so there is that as well.

Well sealed doors will almost certainly stop the smell. Perhaps more important is what causes the smell. If damp wood has been burned previously this can cause deposits in the chimney as it doesn't get a chance to warm up thus the humidity in the wood condenses in the flue. This can also lead to deposits of creosote, this has a 'distinctive' odor and can be potentially dangerous as it is highly flammable and often a cause of chimney fires. Maybe best to get it checked out by a professional?

D K and Sons / All: This stuff still hasn't fully hardened. It's clay-like still. I bought it from Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hercules-1-2-gal-Furnace-Stove-Cement-35515/202078154 Directions of use: "Surface to be joined or repaired should be clean and free of any old cement or debris. Clean surface and remove paint, grease, or oil before applying furnace cement. Wash cleaned area with water. Do not apply to very hot surfaces; wait until surfaces cool down. Apply thin layer of cement covering all openings. Press tightly into section or part being repaired or sealed. Apply liberal second layer of cement and smooth with trowel. If adding adjoining sections, place gently and avoid any twisting motions. Remove excess cement and smooth edges. Start heat using low temperatures for initial firing. Gradually increase the temperature allowing the cement to cure to a solid and durable mass, free from pores. Full firing may follow. Always keep container tightly covered when not in use." They talk about a "firing" and using heat. It's unclear exactly what I should do though. Doesn't say anything about how long it would take to dry. I'm confused. Thoughts? Thanks.

We had wood burning, and while I very much enjoyed the sights, sounds, warmth of a wood burning fire, we converted to gas. I do not miss the dusting, vacuuming, cleaning the fireplace. While we had wood, we were able to cut our own firewood which was a satisfying project at our ages then. I suppose we could still do it now, but cutting, loading, hauling and splitting wood aren't very high on my list of satisfying chores these days - and ordering, buying firewood has become expensive. Truthfully, we don't use the gas fireplace that often. This sprawled out one story house (1955) isn't hard to heat with natural gas radiant in the ceilings. I have the fire going during storms, or for the ambiance occasionally and when expecting winter guests and wanting the house to feel welcoming.