You are going to want more than 32" for the toilet. 36" is standard (and perhaps even code in some areas???? Not here in Maine but I heard people saying that on other forums...) We have 34" and it feels fine but I dont think I'd want to go much tighter. You could solve that simply by flipping the closet and shower. So, have your shower -rotated 90 degrees and witha glass end wall- at the end of the tub (which is a nice setup you can see in many bathrooms, the tub deck can actually protrude under the shower glass wall and be a ledge or seat in the shower). Then the passageway moves to the left, and you can steal a bit of space from the other closet for the toilet. Either that of have a shorter vanity. 48" isn't a size I'd fight for. It's too short for a double vanity, really (unless you're using one of the new two-faucet 'trough" styles) so why not go down to 42" and have a better toilet area? For resale, though, you should consider a double vanity. Some people I guess expert truly huge ones, like at least 5+' long. But you CAN get smaller ones, Ikea has some great ones for tight spaces. But if you're not selling anytime soon, do what YOU like!! (But I still think you'll want more toilet space...)

I have recently moved here from Europe where bathrooms are constructed with masonry walls and drop in baths use siporex (lightweight aerated concrete) for the structure and so there are no issues with rot! Now I am trying to get to grip with the extensive use of lumber and urgently need some advice.... I am building a 'wet' bathroom that has a shower immediately adjacent to a drop in tub, so the tub deck will regaularly get wet. The shower has one interior wall and one exterior wall. The drop in tub has a 2" 'lip' to the deck and a 6" 'shelf' on all 4 sides two of which butt up to walls, one interior one exterior. I intend to tile with 18" slate everywhere. My current plan is: For the shower: 1) build the shower pan using Noble CPE + pre-slope, reinforcing corners etc 2) staple 15lb roofing felt over the studs down to and overlapping the CPE 3) screw hardibacker board down to the shower pan 4) tile Is this ok? What do I do with the outside wall bearing in that I have heard you should not use vapour barriers on exterior walls? Is there a better way to go with the waterproofing? Do I need worry about the penetrations of the screws that penetrate the felt and hold the backerboard to the wall studs? For the tub: 1) Frame out the box for the drop in 2) Felt the walls like the shower and bring the felt over the deck and down the side facing the shower (as per the walls) 3) screw hardibacker to the deck and walls 4) seal hardibacker deck with redguard 5) tile (slate) 6) drop in bath on top of tile with sealant between lip and tile Is this ok? My hope is that water on the deck will not be able to penetrate through to the felt underneath, otherwise it can only run into the void under the bath. Maybe epoxy grout would help? Thanks for your feedback, ideas and help. Right now I am looking at this job with significant worry! Cheers, Steve

Yes, the "dead space" is a hallway. I will try an mock up a better rendering tonight. The space is a bit convoluted. For now, maybe this picture helps? If you can tell below, the blue wall space next to the doorway in front of the left side open shelving is the backside of the bathroom. This is not load bearing. What I'd like to do is drywall over that doorway, and move the bathroom door forward, adding about three and a half more feet of space into the bathroom from what is currently just a hallway that leads to the bathroom and garage door. The hallway runs the length of the backside of the kitchen run where my fridge and oven are. If you are walking down that hallway, it ends with the bathroom door straight ahead, my garage door to the left, and that open doorway into the kitchen on the right. That photo is captured above in an earlier post. So, from the hallway, the left wall has a door to my basement, the a closet then runs along my garage and the right side is opposite my kitchen. We have a full basement, not crawl space. Moving doors should not be a problem.

You can't possibly have 20 years of knowledge about anything since you read like a first grader. If you start reading from the beginning, you and the rest of the world will see that I am the one that said there will need to be 2 fans, and that YOU are the one that said; neu2you Yesterday at 5:34AM A fan is not necessary over the toilet ! Just because you stuck your foot in YOUR mouth right out the gate, doesn't mean you can start putting words in mine trying to make yourself look better. Where in the world did I ever say that "odors from the WC (in a compartment or not ) are more detrimental"?? I have said "and 80(+ cfm) just outside the shower" from the start, and "It is NEVER because people think it will get rid of the stink better that way." I also suggested a heat recovery system (remote blower) before you ever showed up. Nobody said "government knows best for us" but YOU. All I said was that "your theory of the intent of the code" was wrong. Neither the code, or myself intend to get into a debate about which area is more important to have an exhaust fan, as it is a moot point since both places are REQUIRED to have "ventilation" PERIOD. I never said I have "replaced thousands" of fans. I INSTALL thousands of fans, even now, not back at WWII. AND, they are 99% all BROAN/Nutone. So are the ones I repair or replace, including the 744. If you think 20+ years is lasting "a life time", then you are still wet behind the ears. (Neu really does suit you for a name, I bet they call you that at work) That is when most of them go out, although some go out within a couple years, depending on the habits of the inhabitants. Most people are still paying off their mortgage at 20+ years. How would YOU like it if your car was worthless and had to be replaced before it was even paid for? In contrast, I have yet to need to replace a fan less than 35 years old that is placed just outside the shower. And, what are you planning on doing for the steam you get when filling the tub with hot water, just add a third fan? SURE, you could, but these people are not just building this house "virtually" on the web. REAL MONEY doesn't grow on trees. It appears, that in your 20+ years, you have made the same mistakes for 3 houses and leave them just as things start falling apart, and you get that 7 year itch. Frankly, I would never want the extra draft you get by pulling cooler air into the shower area when the fan is in there with you.