Lisa go to Utube and type in the brand of your unit and installation and you'll see lots of help. We're installing a Swanstone one right now. Not as easy as I thought it would be but we'll get it done. Good luck.

Did we have this discussion a few weeks back? Can you get another spout with threads that aren't recessed? If not, in my opinion it is much easier to do the job from the rear. You can leave some kind of acess panel which could come in handy. I tried messing with tiles once and it turns into a problem trying to mount replacement tiles on a backing that isn't secure. Also, there is a thicker teflon tape available. Could you try that with thread paste on top to see if that stops the leak?

Since it's on you, I'd go after Kohler again. Simply start anew. Get a written diagnosis from the second evaluator. Send it to Kohler and start a warranty claim. Pretend it's the first time you've called them. 1) Tub was purchased from _____ on ____. 2) Tub was installed on ____ by a licensed plumber in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. 3) Within days of the installation a squeaking noise was heard. 4) You had two people come out and diagnose it as a delamination. Include the written report from the second person. 5) State what you want: A new tub. I'd also contact the point-of-purchase. They sold you a bad tub. As a follow up to the initial phone call claim with them, include the written delamination assessment made by the second evaluator. Send them the same info noted above. Written letters and emails start the paper trail. Phone calls are great to "shake the tree", any time you talk to anyone note the day, time, person you spoke with, case/claim number if they assign you one, and take brief notes of the conversation. Kohler is usually pretty good about claims. Best thing I can offer is to be calm but firm in your conversations, be businesslike. And keep good notes. When I've dealt with things like this, I've kept my notes in a document file on my computer. If I talk to someone new, I'll email them the file while I'm on the phone with them. Depending on the situation I might password protect it or convert it into a pdf file before sending it so it can't be muddled with by the recipient. No, I've never done or had done a gel injection. I've never heard of it being done. Not saying it won't work. But I've never had a tub delaminate! As a bit of a last resort, talk to your GC. If Kohler is claiming the tub was installed incorrectly, that falls back on him and on his plumber. You might be able to get separate letters from the plumber and the GC saying that the tub was installed IAW the manufacturers instructions and that they agree with the evaluation that delamination as a result of a manufacturing defect are the cause of the squeak. Again, all that is based on the tub having been installed correctly. ie, it's not a drop-in tub that is being supported by the rim instead of by the base/feet for example. Again, good luck.

I don't see a photo. So to start with I'll ask was the tub installed in accordance with the manufacturer's installation instructions? Most instructions include how the tub should be secured, and how the tub flange should relate to the tile backer board hung on the walls. With that out of the way... My "blind" response? If the cement board is proud of the tub flange, no worries. The bottom course of wall tile will cover the tub flange. Typically the bottom course of wall tile will be held above the tub deck by the with of a grout line, and that gap will later be filled with a bead of caulk. Often times the caulk can be color- and texture-matched to the grout. If the tub flange is proud of the cement board, yes, that can be an issue. If it just gets tiled over, the protruding flange can cause the bottom course of wall tile to kick out of plane with the tile above. It'll skew the tiles themselves plus it'll skew the vertical linearity of the tile in the wall-to-wall corners. If there is any movement in the tub, from loading with water, from bathers, any movement in the tub can cause friction squeaks because of differential movement with the tile being in contact with the flange. If the tub installation is fine, the existing cement board can be removed. 1/4" rips (or whatever thickness is needed) from a 2x4 can be fastened to the edge of each stud to pack out the framing, then the cement board can be reinstalled over the packed out studs so the cement board properly clears the tub flange. If the tub does not have to be reset, that is my preferred solution. An alternative would be to thinset and screw a second layer of cement board over the existing cement board. The thinset is there to fill any voids between the two layer to prevent differential movement. The long screws are what will fasten the new cement board to the studs. Regardless, make sure whatever waterproofing that is to be used on the walls is reconsidered and adjusted if required.