>I think a bead of clear silicon would probably take care of the crack, and wouldn't be too hard to remove if you had to yank the cooktop.

I don't know about the induction cooktops, but the install guide for the Miele radiant cooktops says not to seal around the edges, so I'd check with them before doing that.

It does say not to seal under the edge of the cooktop when you install it, presumably because then you can't loosen it up without potentially damaging the cooktop. Sealing around the edge seems like less of an issue, though I might worry about how it would hold up with the surrounding heat??? If the granite is cut very precisely, then the gap would be so minimal that there wouldn't be much to fill. But one wrong cut and then you've got a mess!

Maybe some others who have done this will chime in.

Thanks!

For the radiant cooktops they say not to do it because it needs that little bit of air circulation for heat escape. I don't know if that would hold true for induction or not.

Induction has fans, and needs air circulation to cool the machinery rather than radiant heat, but they usually have powerful fans and need air flow. I don't know if there's enough from the edges to bother with--they usually use cabinet space, and some vent up in the back.

My Miele induction cooktop has no seal around it. When my slab backsplash was being installed, the marble guy needed to stand on my countertop, so he popped the cooktop right out of its hole and unplugged it. I was very surprised he knew what he was doing.

I was a little worried about cleaning around the rim because I'm a messy cook. Happily, the stainless steel rim is seamless and has been a breeze to keep clean -- no cracks or crevices for gunk to hide in. And now I know if somehow gunk does get built up in the future I can easily pop up the cooktop and clean under the rim.

I'm wondering about using a latex caulk; that's the kind one can remove most easily. I think it would provide no real resistance when you "pop" the top by pressing it up from underneath.

I can understand why one wouldn't want to use pure silicone: it's too permanent. It holds too well. It would prevent you from popping the top out of the groove, unless you used a great deal of leverage demolition-style, and that would be a massive physical stress on the cooktop.

First off have you asked your counter fabricators if they can do it? If so, is there any way you could see a sample of their work? I'm just thinking if it's not done to extremely tight and constant tolerances throughout the entire perimeter it's going to look terrible.

In theory sinking it sounds really cool for someone seeking clean lines. But the more I try to visualize it the more I question whether it would really make a significant visual statement. Being raised wouldn't bother me because that's standard. However the most minute imperfection of the rabbet - in particular I'd be concerned about them following the corner radii perfectly - would irritate me every time I looked at it.

We were also considering flush-mounting our ceramic induction cooktop, but one of the salesman we spoke to yesterday gave a great reason not to do it: If yo ever want to switch out this cooktop for any reason, you're stuck with the exact dimensions of this cooktop cutout in your countertop. So either you're limited to replacing it with the exact same unit (if it's still available), find another unit of the precisely same dimensions, or replacing your countertop too.

eleeny - this is really true of many drop in cooktops. fFor instance all 36" cooktops have "roughly" the same size opening. Yet for a 36" 5 burner gas top the Dacor model will not fit into Wolf's opening, and Viking's fits neither. And on and on. Want to swap? It's likely you'll have modification no matter what you choose.

So, this should not be a deal killer but I'd put it on the scale at a few ounces when weighing my options.

If you are going to do it I'd stick with a fabricator that has a CNC machine to do the work, it can be done by hand but the results are no where near as good.

Thanks, antss!

That's why I LOVE this forum. You all are so knowledgeable!!!

I REALLY appreciate all of these thoughts. I shall keep pondering...

Iam also pondering a flush mount. Curious if jraz wa had the install? If so how do you like it? Any pics?

I am still pondering. Granite won't be templated for another 3 weeks. At this point, I'm leaning towards mounting it on top of the counter rather than flush.

if anyone has a picture of their Miele induction flush-mounted, please post or email me. i'm struggling with this and need to decide asap.

thank you!

bump.

Personally, here is how I see your dilemma.
If you just want to see how it looks, I'll suggest that you already know how it looks, in general.
And yes, people do appreciate fine touches well done.
So yes, it is "worth it" in the big picture if you want something special.
Your fabricator is the one to talk to for a serious discussion.
They need to be skilled.
They need to be proud to do it.
How the gap will look after they cut / router the opening: ie. whether the stone will chip there (etc), whether you will be willing to pay for the extra cutting / polishing time, whether they will cut it a bit wide just to be sure it's not too small -- in other words how much they are competent capable and interested in doing a good job.

Try calling Miele and speaking to a specialist.
I've done this many times, and received many emails with attachment images.
The photo or image will no doubt show the best view.
The Miele's steel rim is well designed, or adapted, to be recessed.

hth