Whole house LED recessed lighting
pamelah
13 years ago
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Comments (24)
cs6000
13 years agoduluthjeff
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Recessed housing for Home Depot EcoSmart-575 6" LED lights
Comments (2)I think that this one would do. Also, there are air tight IC Edison Halo cans at HD. Here is a link that might be useful: Elco remodel can...See MoreRecessed LED lighting in an old home
Comments (15)In my townhouse (1980s) we have lighting strips in the upper cabinets which all have glass doors. The doors are not clear, but a hazy gold. The lighting is the same thing we have under the cabinets, these cables onto which you clip tiny little lights (that put out a lot of light, but you can choose exactly where to have it). Because the upper cabinets have wood shelves, only the top shelf is actually illuminated when they are on. It provides a similar glow to what you describe with your over the cabinet lighting. The ceilings are only 8'. Let me see what I have for a pic....none show the lights on, but they're in these upper cabinets. The cabinets over the doorways do not have glass in them (too small of a door) but the other reason is that they hide the transformers for the cabinet lighting. We of course also added lighting beneeth the hood for task work. It's a nice area to work in more lighting when you need it. We will do the same in our victorian kitchen (which will have a similar range, just larger). In the vic we'll hide the hood in a wall nook so the lighting will be a must! One other thing I did was to use fixtures that both illuminate up and downwards. Note the light over the table (which is out for repair here) is similar to the lights in the rest of the kitchen but the globes are open on the base verses the top. These are all 1913ish maybe 15 can't remember.... fixtures that I restored. They provide a great deal of light (they're also on dimmers) and each is on it's own switch so they can be bright task lighting or soft mood lighting. Another valuable lighting lesson I learned is to switch everything separately if you can so that you have options, verses "BOOM" Light everywhere. A switch is such an easy thing to add and so valuable. In the vic we have extras that we've added that are electronic so that you don't have to have the switch in the middle of a wall, but instead I keep them in a cubby in the wooten (they're wireless). We do have tiny pot lights in this kitchen. We rarely use them as they're so freaking glaring and obnoxious. I learned a valuable lesson in that there is really no need for the ugly things in a well planned lighting scheme, in a historic home or a modern one. If I ever put a light in a pot again it's going to be in a sidewalk, and no where else LOL Electronics and updating in an old home are always such a thought provoking subject. Obviously some have stronger thoughts than others LOL (Old house snobs in particular) but things can be made useful and "modern" without ruining the house. In our victorian we have a modern heat pump system (two commercial systems actually) which heat and cool each room as it's own zone. I dial it up on my iphone to change the temperature etc. Very modern, and it's all hidden in pelmets, amoires and floor registers. No one notices it aside from noting that they're shocked how warm the house gets given it's a victorian with no insulation. :) It can be done if you just put some thought into it!...See Morerecess lights, LED kit, or ordinary one with led bulb?
Comments (15)air tight trim is a joke in my opinion.I base this on having tested for air leakage with a blower door while sealing these lights & trims. the foam rubber gasket does little to stop the air leakage from exiting the trim. the best way I've found is to use the hardcast 1402 mastic tape to seal housing to the sheetrock. similar to how supply box is sealed in pic of previous posting. tape goes into edge of housing and overlaps to sheetrock. allow 1'2" overlap as trim will cover the tape. this with the ICAT recessed light will stop as much of the air leakage as possible. there will still be a small amount of leakage, but not enough to be of concern. note this when you look at the recessed lights again: Halo's insulation contact air tight lights have two things that identify them. no holes in housing and a orange sticker inside the can that says it is air tight. orange sticker, not red. the red sticker says air tight when used with the following trim kits. deceptive lableling IMO. reading the small print inside IC cans the trim kits include, insert/baffle to fit inside the can to address holes in housing (@$14 each) and air tight trim kit, not sure of cost. as the insert/baffle would be needed at every recessed light, buying ICAT makes better economical sense. installing the baffles is a pita. so add labor for that to cost. buy ICAT, use mastic tape in place of 'air tight' trim. if you are putting IC cans outside under porches patio, unconditioned space this is what happens. as the install of recessed lights is ongoing, the electrician mixes up the boxes. some inside are ICAT, some IC. same outside. make it easy on everyone and buy all ICAT. wasps like IC, but not so much ICAT, less air movement. the cost per contractor case between the two is minimal when you compare to retrofitting each IC to air tight. best of luck....See MoreDo I Need LED Specific Housing for Recessed Lights?
Comments (8)It seems as though every new technology ultimately tries to find a way to work with the standard base. That makes me wonder whether whatever comes next might be likely to do the same. LED found a way to use a standard base, so did those awful UV soft serve light bulbs. I think standard might be the option less likely to require that you swap out your fixtures in twenty years, but who knows? Are you connecting your can lights to a dimmer? If so you have to buy dimmable bulbs (and definitely warm as pip points out). There have been a few threads about LED can lights on a circuit requiring a specific LED dimmer so as not to flicker or hum. Check the issue out beforehand and save yourself a tiny bit of grief!...See Moretracey_b
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