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BATH...Cracked tiles, cracked grout & moisture in wall

15 years ago

I have a few issues in my bathtub area that I need answers for, but first, here's some background info:

About 4 years ago, I had the plastic backsplash for my bathtub replaced with square 4"x4" ceramic tiles. There is a window on the long wall of the tub, so tiles were fitted around the window instead of wood trim. When the men removed the old plastic backsplash, there was quite a bit of moisture in the wood on the wall where the window is located. The men stated that they could do the tile job even though the wood was moist, that the wood would dry out inside the wall, that they come across this all the time. They chipped off some of the most moist areas of wood, then did the tile job. I believe they put a moisture barrier up and adhered the tiles to that barrier.

I didn't realize that they did not caulk where the bottom tiles meet the tub (only grout was placed there), and so showers were taken. Now the grout between the tub and the bottom tiles is cracked with bits of grout missing. A few months ago, I noticed that the bottom tiles that meet the tub have hairline cracks in them...these tiles are on the wall with the window.

So my questions are:

1) For the cracks/missing bits in the grout between the tub and bottom tiles, should I re-grout and then apply caulk or should I just apply caulk without re-grouting the cracks? I don't know if it's necessary to re-grout first.

2) What would cause the 4-year old bottom tiles to have hairline cracks? The tiles are on the wall where the window is located.

3) Were the men correct when they said that they could immediately do the tile job without allowing time to for the moist wood (behind the old backsplash) to air dry, that the wood would dry out by itself over time with the tile job completed? I'm concerned that the wood has never dried out and perhaps mold may be growing.

Thank you for any help, advice and information.

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Comments (2)

bill_vincent
15 years ago
Actually, good chance the wood DID dry out. As it dries it contracts, which would explain the cracking tile. One way or the other, there's movement due to moisture getting to the framing, whether it's from being wet and drying, or after drying out, it's now getting wet again. Either way, it never should've been covered up wet. You don't know how long it was wet, and how much damage has been done top the wood. Sometimes, there's more damage than can be seen while it's wet.

No real way to tell for sure without opening up the wall, but then again, it's certainly a moisture/ movement problem involving the framing, and the only way to solve that is to pull it all apart and redo it.
stu2900
15 years ago
mia--I'm so sorry you're going through this, but it does make me glad that I listened to bill and others on this forum and removed my window. I've been having second thoughts lately because I've been seeing some beautiful bathrooms that have a window over a tub/shower combo. I wish them the best, but as much as I want the natural light, I really don't want the worry.
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Curb movement like that is typically from a wood-built curb (stacked 2-by lumber, for example) that is absorbing moisture and expanding/swelling. How is moisture getting to the curb? Could be one of several things. Not sure how conscientious the installer was in terms of making sure the shower pan membrane is sloped (versus laying the membrane flat on a flat subfloor), or how he detailed the membrane over the curb. It's possible there are nails through the top or inside faces of the curb (and thus through the membrane) and moisture is getting through the nail holes. It's possible that he built you a perfect curb but used wet pressure-treated wood and the PT wood is warping as it dries. Or your house is on a slab, and he put the wood right on the slab. Moisture through the slab is causing the wood curb to expand. So it could be one of several things. It should be fairly easy to diagnose though, as the tiles are popping off on the outside face of the curb. They'll have to be removed eventually to diagnose and repair. When they are removed, take a look to see what's in there. Post photos if you can. To give you a bit of an education as to how a typical CPE-membraned shower with a wood curb is built, check out Harry's pictorial. Note that Harry's membrane is "draped" over the wood curb. That there are no nails/screws on the top or inside face of the curb. That the lathe (wire mesh) is bent in a "U" shape and it's simply the inverted "U" bends that hold it over the curb. Again, there are no fasteners through the lathe and into the top or inside face of the curb. I have seen instances where the membrane gets draped over the wood curb, then the installer nails cement board on the three faces of the curb and tiles on the cement board. Not good. Again, nails through the membrane on the top and inside face are a no-no. I don't see screws through the bottom track of your door frame that go into the curb. That's good. Best, Mongo
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Really recommend you get an onsite inspection, analysis and discussion with a very qualified tile contractor (not the folks who performed the work). There are several approaches to this. None are effortless, but onsite is a must, and a pro is a must. You already know you have issues. No more advice from the internet will solve them. If you are near any of these certified contractors, that is one place to start. https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/find-certified-tile-installers Or referrals from trusted sources locally. Where did you buy the tile? If it is a quality tile supplier, they may be able to provide you with the "A list". And yes, re-visit the "curbless" in your situation. At the very least, a small threshold, but this can be discussed along with the other issues with the Pro.
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