I'm not loving my exterior. Appreciate any input.

14 years ago

Here's the deal:

This is a remodel/addition to a ranch home. In order to keep costs under control, we tried to work with what we already had as much as we could.

I had a picture of what I thought we might be able to pull off and I presented it to our architect. Yeah...it didn't work. Any way, it's hard to tell from the picture, but where the two windows to the left are it extends forward about 5ft as well as to the right of those windows is a porch in line with that. I'll try to post what I was hoping for. If anyone can suggest ideas or photoshop that would be great. Should I extend the porch further across the house or forget the porch all together? There aren't any views to consider, just a regular old house on a street. The sun is in the front of the house most of the day. This makes me think I should consider taking away the porch.

I thought maybe I should just have the windows on the second floor changed so they're the same as the first floor. Does that make it boring then?

Pick it apart. I don't mind.

Lori

Here is a link that might be useful: here's what I want

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (5)

robinson622
Original Author
14 years ago
Here's my plan. I don't have it in pdf, so I took a picture of it. We will be using cedar shakes. Our windows will have grilles. I think the second floor window is too big in the center, but it was too small before.

Maybe a steeper pitch?

Here is a link that might be useful: exterior
mightyanvil
14 years ago
A small pediment inside a larger pent roofed pediment without any change in plane in the exterior wall is a pretty weak design element IMHO. In addition, this kind of "pediment grafting" has become a mainstay of mobile home design. You should ask for a perspective drawing to see if you're going to like it.

In a further attempt to distance the design from the mobile home tradition, I would put an additional 2 to 4 inches between the paired windows so they look more like traditional windows ganged together but separated by a few inches of trim.

With so many cornice returns I would use a more traditional design instead of the abbreviated "builder" style shown on the drawings. They will forever tag your house as a two story ranch.

Do you really need those little rectangular vents in the gables? They don't seem large enough to allow much moisture to escape from an attic but are large enough to ruin the formal appearance of the gables.

Consider eliminating the corner boards and wrapping the shingles around the corners to give the house a bit more style. Flaring of the shingles at the foundation or at a belt line could help too.

A taller trim board at the head of the window and no flat trim board at the sill would help a lot. If the nail-fin window doesn't have a proper projecting sill (most don't) add a PVC sill nosing from ATW (see link). You could also add a small band molding to the outer edges of the jamb and head trim of the windows. You could also add a classical crown trim to the head to match all the classical pediments and cornice returns.

A slightly steeper roof would help. Why is the window above the door a "picture window"? Is there a great view from that space? I would make it a larger version of the other windows or a pair with better trim, or perhaps an arched top.

The lonely little post supporting the porch needs some attention. If the house is really going to use classical elements you should consider making it a simple round Doric column. If you avoid classical detailing the post could have some brackets.

Why couldn't your architect figure out these basic architectural detailing enhancements from the photo you gave him/her? I suspect he/she not only skipped some courses but perhaps the NCARB exam.

Here is a link that might be useful: traditional window trim
Related Discussions
New to Hoyas...any input appreciated.
Q
Comments (8)
Welcome to the forum. Most Hoyas are easy growers if you understand how they grow in nature. Most species are epiphytes with wind dispersed seeds just like their relatives the milkweeds. Hoya habitats range from constantly moist to seasonally dry depending on the what part of the world they come from and what habitat. Some areas even follow a double monsoon cycle so they will have two wet periods separated by a dry period. Other Hoyas can spend months under quite dry conditions that would outright kill the species that enjoy less harsh conditions. The good thing about Hoyas is that as long as you follow a few guide lines most species will do well and if need be you can adjust the light, water or other conditions to suit a certain species. Potting mix - Most growers use a mix based on orchid bark or coconut hush chips that have been rinsed well for several days minimum to remove salts or an inorganic component like expanded clay beads or turface. You can add potting soil to the mix but added perlite will help keep it open, epiphytes usually hate soggy conditions and a fairly quick wet to dry cycle is the aim. Promix type mixes can also be used but again it's good to open them up with added chunky perlite or bark. If you are a heavy waterer a mix made of pure orchid bark also works. Most growers use plastic pots because clay can dry too fast and in the heat of the summer you will be watering constantly. Light - Hoyas will do well in bright indirect light but there are a few that enjoy shade and a few more that want full sun. I grow most of my plant in sunny south facing windows but that is because those are the windows I have available. An East window or a shaded West window would work and even a North window will be fine for the shade lovers. I have a Hoya lacanosa that grows at least ten feet from the nearest window and it does just fine. From the sounds of it you have been caring for your Hoyas correctly. Hoya serpens enjoys more moisture and a cooler position. Hoya cummnagiana likes moist conditions and very bright light. Hoya cummangiana is often seen in pretty much full sun growing along road cuts in the Philippines and without intense light it will not bloom. You should aim for compact growth with little stem between the leaves and if the leaves get a red margin then you are right where the plant wants to be to bloom. Some Hoyas are truly slow to grow and many species will slowly develop a root system for up to a year after being rooted from a cutting. Once a cutting settles in some cases it will grow a new vine very quickly and then fill that out with leaves so don't chop anything off. I think most of us on the form have quite a mix of species because some take years to grow and bloom while others are much faster. Many species are beautiful even without blooms and they can be used to fill in a collection of Hoyas. Hoyas seem to be especially attractive to mealy bugs so you need to keep an eye out for white cottony masses on the stems and leaves. If you do notice any let us know and we can give you suggestions to try and get rid of them. Sites like Hoyor.net, growinghoyas.com or MyHoyas are great places to learn about these plants. I will put a link to one of the Thai collectors who has made the Stemma Journal issues available for download. Stemma Journal was a free Hoya magazine that was available online, this was the best place for hobby growers to get Hoya info and I would recommend reading the issues when you have time. The issues cover potting, propagation and discuss how Hoyas are grouped as a genus. Mike Here is a link that might be useful: Apodagis site with Stemma at the bottom of the page
...See More
We sure would appreciate any input on this floor plan!!
Q
Comments (20)
Here are a few links to alternate plans to check out and think about. As you look at plans, think about how you could modify what's there to meet your needs. Not wild about the bedroom sizes, but nice layout: - http://www.mascord.com/plan_details.asp?PlanID=1149B&PlanGraphicID=4985&np=true Option for a basement, open floorplan, decent sized bedrooms: - http://www.garrellassociates.com/floorplans/high-country-cottage-08141 Don't like the garage being so far from the kitchen, but otherwise a nice plan: - http://www.garrellassociates.com/floorplans/high-country-cottage-08141 A little unique, but nice: - http://www.garrellassociates.com/floorplans/diamond-creek-cottage-07440 Probably the one I like the best on this site, but I would make the island completely parallel to the angled wall with the range on it: - http://www.garrellassociates.com/floorplans/crested-butte-08070 If you could swing ~2000sq ft, this one might work--you could push the dining room back flush with the front door, then close off the doorways from the foyer and family rooms and make that a large laundry room. You could then make the current laundry room a nice large walk-in pantry. One of our neighbors built this one as shown in the plan and it was beautiful and seemed to flow well. - http://www.frankbetz.com/homeplans/plan_info.html?pn=3896 Here's another you could modify-make the dining room a den/office/potential 3rd bedroom on main floor & leave upstairs unfinished: - http://southernlivinghouseplans.com/plans/SL1746 Hope these help!
...See More
Layout for Review/Input - Appreciate any and all help!
Q
Comments (12)
You're welcome. Can you put a lower counter below the one window on the left wall? If it's the right height for a baking counter, say 33", that would make a nice baking center for you. If that's possible, here's another idea. Move the DO to the lower end of the left wall with a pantry cab between it and the wall. Then add a lower counter below the window, spanning the distance between DO cabs and cabs on upper side of the left wall. Then turn the island perpendicular to its present position and shift it over to give you enough aisle space between perimeter cabs and island. Rhome has only 36" between prep area and cooktop and it works for her but most prefer 42". This eliminates the butt to butt problem of sink, DW and cooktop. On the backside of the island, go with a raised curved counter with seating facing the baking center. This eliminates the in-a-row seating that makes conversation harder and also provids a buffer between seaters and cooktop activity (a pop-up downdraft helps with that, too). These changes mean that fridge traffic no longer crosses the work zones so you can eliminate the undercabinet fridge. You can increase to a 36" fridge if you need more room. Oh, one thing just popped out at me. You wrote that you're doing standard depth fridge but your plan shows a fridge with CD dimensions. A standard depth fridge will stick out several inches more than you show. You could take the money you would have spent on a fridge and undercab fridge and get a CD fridge instead and gain more aisle space. I'm talking stand alone, not built-in. If the window doesn't allow for a 33" or 34" counter, you could still put one in front of it, just do a "floating" counter. A GWer did such a thing for her sink in an old house. Wish I could remember who it was.... It was clever and allowed her to put counter where one wouldn't think counter could go. Until I remember who it is, here's my recollection of how it works. She has cabinets up to the window sill, then open space in front of the window between lower cabs and counter. You could leave this clear or put baskets there for storage. The unfitted look would be appropriate for your old home's age. Heck, if this look works for you, you can go with standard height counters and have a really nice long counter run, perfect for baking prep.
...See More
Please help with my kitchen layout - appreciate input
Q
Comments (44)
I wish I knew how much of the bigger drawing is new. I can't quite tell about the powder room, laundry, etc. on the real wall, the wet bar - if they are new with the kitchen? Given that, I like layout 2 of buehl's without the seats or with only 4 seats. A somewhat thinner island and the sink moved over from the corner a bit more so people can approach the cleanup sink from both sides. I think the ideal island doesn't exceed about 60 inches of depth. There isn't a lot of difference between that and Sena01 at Thu, Jan 2, 14 at 6:48 except for the position of the refrigerator. Having had that exact position of the ref, tho - right next to an entrance, - I would not do i again. It drove me crazy not to be able to see who was going out or coming in. A crazier layout and just something to think about (doodles are free) is perhaps something a little more old school - sort of along the lines ye old table in the middle of the kitchen. Trades the laundry to the wet bar, the potty to the laundry, runs cabinets on two walls. Almost leaves the lower right hall door where it was. Adds the wet bar to the kitchen, but lets it double as a snack bar or breakfast bar (meaning toast, juice, cereal, milk, microwave) plus an in kitchen place for an undercounter ref. It has more places to prep - the table, barville, both sides of the cleanup sink and the counter by the bigger ref. I think both the ref and the pantry are drawn at about 42" but meant as a 36" ref and a 48" pantry. None of this is measured or precise. There may be other reasons why you might not like it, and those reasons might be plentiful :). But it values togetherness more than absolute efficiency. It puts all the seating together so latecomers aren't excluded. It envisions that family and friends sit down to do some things - peel and chop a lot of veg, squeeze lemons, make meringues, roll out cookies, etc. In that set up, I'd likely get a 2-3" deep board, maybe with short legs, for a little more working space when pressed into standing work, but still at the table... Lastly, I think the best kitchens take at least a couple of months to think through all of the issues and feel comfortable with the solutions you choose. Try not to hurry the process. We all know that feeling of pressure to get started and get it done. Try to ignore it and take as much time as you need.
...See More
mythreesonsnc
14 years ago
I had to ask as I am just working on a side elevation (trying different things and this "pediment grafting" is something I just put in.....YIKES. I do not want a mobile home look! I just drew this in and drew over several other parts of the elevation so it is not really clean, but I am worried that this is doing the mobile home thing.... Is it terrible? The window where I put in the arched window is a barrel vault on the inside --- but the gable needs to be bigger overall because is covers the barrel vault and another room. I thought the double rooflines helped to frame that window, otherwise it would have just been the larger roofline and the window would have looked off center. This is just a CAD mock-up as I try things and excuse my horrible drawing of the stone and some of the siding, I just wanted to add a bit of texture to see if that helped the flat look of the CAD.

Here is the particular elevation I am now worried about --- sorry to hijack this post, but I am worried about the mobile home look that you just mentioned!

Here is a link that might be useful:
mythreesonsnc
14 years ago
Robinson --

I have been flipping back and forth between your 2 pictures --- IMHO there are several elements that are missing from your inspiration pic and your drawing. This is just my opinion, but:
1. I think the pitch of the roof/ gables is too low.
2. I agree with Mightyanvil about the double pediment thing --- (didn't know that was the name). --- I think the part of your inspiration house that works is the bit of trim (like flashing) that sits in the bottom half of those gables --- It dresses up the gables. Dividing your gables with the false line confuses that detail.
3. The trim on the inspiration pic windows is like a crown moulding (like mightyanvil shows). Your windows need this detail.
4. Is the window on the top right off center?
5. I agree about the center window.
One question --- what is the existing structure? Which windows, etc. are already in place?
robinson622
Original Author
14 years ago
Ok, mighty. I just responded to every statement you wrote and then I lost it all. Very frustrating.

In a nutshell, I agree with all of your suggestions. Some other changes I want to make...on the garage I'd like to bring the right side forward about a foot to offset the section like my inspiration picture.

I didn't realize I could separate the existing windows and use traditional ones. Would you suggest repeating the same windows on the second floor?

"Flaring of the shingles at the foundation or at a belt line could help too.

A taller trim board at the head of the window and no flat trim board at the sill would help a lot. If the nail-fin window doesn't have a proper projecting sill (most don't) add a PVC sill nosing from ATW (see link). You could also add a small band molding to the outer edges of the jamb and head trim of the windows. You could also add a classical crown trim to the head to match all the classical pediments and cornice returns."

Could you post some examples? I understand your link, but I'm not sure about the rest.

No view, unfortunately. Just an obnoxiously huge window. I've seen 3 windows close together with the one in the middle a little bigger. I kind of like that. I can't find a picture though.

That is a pathetic post on the porch. I'd like posts like the inspiration pic. Hopefully my builder can improvise. (breaking out into a sweat)

"Why couldn't your architect figure out these basic architectural detailing enhancements from the photo you gave him/her? I suspect he/she not only skipped some courses but perhaps the NCARB exam."

I'm not too impressed with the drawings. I like that he listened to our wants and needs and didn't just do what HE wanted, but...I was hoping for a WOW when I saw the drawings. We've waited many years to be able to afford this. I don't want to be satisfied, I want to be thrilled.

Thanks for your input. Any other ideas are appreciated.

mythreesonsnc - again I agree with all of your comments. Not sure why the architect didn't add these design elements. The front three double windows are existing. I'll post a picture of our "mobile home".
This is what I've called it since we moved here. The rest of my neighborhood is custom homes. No two are the same. We bought for the location. Most homes are riverfront. If I could afford a teardown I would.

Here is a link that might be useful: our Sears kit - mobile home :(

I'm not loving my exterior. Appreciate any input.

Comments (5)

robinson622
Original Author

mightyanvil

Related Discussions

mythreesonsnc

mythreesonsnc

robinson622
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

I'm not loving my exterior. Appreciate any input.

Comments (5)

robinson622Original Author

mightyanvil

Related Discussions

mythreesonsnc

mythreesonsnc

robinson622Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

robinson622
Original Author

robinson622
Original Author