I strongly believe in knowing the names of all my hostas. Among other things, I record the grower/hybridizer, the year it was first introduced, and where and when I acquired it. I will not buy from any of the various home improvement stores, where labels often get switched around. That being said, every spring I end up with a dozen or so plants without labels. Obviously, the names of the NOIDS most be among the names of the hostas I acquired, and can easily be found. Most of these orphans result from dividing known hostas, when I forget to label the new divisions. Then there are those hostas, which are either sports, OP seedlings etc. and I record them just as well. If you feel it is to early to name them, identify them at least with some letters or numbers. By fall it is time to take pictures of all my hosta beds. I make B/W printouts and walk outside with the stack of paper in my hand and enter each name directly on the print out, or you might use 1 inch dia. Avery adhesive labels to white on. Use color prints if you don't mind the expense. If you are trying to identify plants from a friend, or those that came with house, try to estimate how many years they were with the last owner. That will reduce the number of possibilities drastically.

"We were in a rush, so since we didn't have time to do it right, so we did it wrong. But now that we're not in a rush we have so much extra time that we can now take apart what we did that was wrong and then redo it so it'll be right. We work faster this way." Uh huh, uh huh. Sorry. I'm in a sarcastic mood tonight. I'd have him show you in the Kohler instruction manual that came along with the tub where it describes installing this tub with foam. Kohler manuals should be available on line as well. I could be wrong. But my recollection is Kohler favors either construction adhesive to directly adhere the tub to the subfloor, or a 2" mortar bed to cradle the entire footprint of the tub when bedding these tubs. With repeated loading and unloading cycles, foam can compress over time. That'll put stress on your flange and could cause it to fail. Sure a framed apron under the front edge will level it. It should, at least for the front edge. Did they install a 2x4 support ledger on the other three walls to support the flange? That way when you put weight on the edges of the tub, the ledger below the flange is taking your weight instead of 3 drywall screws run through a flimsy flange and into the wall studs. the flange can eventually fail. An unsupported flange can also result in excessive flexure of the edge and eventual caulk failure between the tub and the tile. That flexing can occur just from filling the tub with water. I'm not sure if Kohler requires a support ledger or batten unde the flange, but I'd certainly read up on it, or call their tech support line to find out. If a ledger is installed, it may have to be cut away where the overflow tube is. Depends on the clearances. I hate to be doom and gloom on this forum, but whatever happened to "do it once, do it right?" Mongo

I am a DIY'er and did a pretty significant bathroom remodel where I did all the tile work. On my shower, I used Laticrete Hydroban and durock for my walls. At all corners and at the tub flange, I used fiberglass tape embedded in thinset, sort of like your video. Much cheaper I imagine. The Schluter Band is water and vapor proof I believe. You will be using Redgard to achieve the same water management goal, so I don't believe you would need the Schluter product. All changes of material and planes will be covered with the fiberglass tape and thinset. All the fasteners will be covered with thinset. All valves are set with tape and thinset, or the product included with the valves. My valves came with a taping product that I thinset into place. Then everything is coated in the water management membrane such as Redgard or Laticrete. I filled in all small voids with thinset. I don't have a picture of the bottom of my shower pan and Durock, but I think I taped it with the fiberglass tape. It has been some time since I did this job. Below, is my thinset and taped cement board. True Confessions, I don't think I have enough fasteners, nor the right kind, in my wall, and I worry about this flaw in my shower. I had drywallers hang this for me when they did the rest of the room. I assumed they used the correct fasteners, but they didn't. They started out with galvanized nails, which I believe would have been ok, but I wanted screws, so they switched to the drywall screws. I had the Durock screws, but didn't give them to the workers, assuming they had their own. They didn't. So after they left and I saw the, I tried adding my Durock screws into the wall. I couldn't do it, I just wasn't strong enough. DH was out farming and wasn't available to drive more in for me. So I proceeded. My mistake, as I learned later the drywall screws deteriorate in cement board over time because of the alkaline conditions. I confessed to DH that the walls might fall down in a few years. He said, "well when they do, we'll just fix it." What a relief I felt, I no longer carried this burden of knowing that I flubbed up: Here is the bottom where the coating is onto the shower pan. It hard to see, but the pan and walls are totally sealed in the Hydroban. Click it open to see the bottom of the walls at the shower pan, where I taped a plastic sheeting to protect the pan. Be sure to follow the recommendations for thickness with your Redgard. This is Laticrete Hydroban: If you click the picture open you might be able to see the valves sealed with the Hydroban. This green tape is by 3M and is very strong used for taping concrete I believe. It was great to use to hold hanging tiles into place until the thinset cured. You will want this tape for your tiling job, I loved it:

"But I'm no woodworker. Maybe this is just the way it works? I'm new to this sort of thing. Should I let them try fixing it with caulk?" It's not the way it's supposed to work. Caulk is used to hide small cracks on surfaces that are painted, for example where trim is applied to walls. No responsible cabinetmaker would use caulk to fix sloppy work. And the chipping may be more noticeable after the caulking settles into the chips and highlights all of them. I can't tell you what you should do, but I can say that what he is proposing would embarrass a true, pro cabinetmaker.