Very nice!!!! Tans for sharing.

Yes, you just need to know where to save it (destination directory). On my 'puter here at home, the path is C:\Program Files\Microsoft Office\Templates\Presentation Designs. If you're downloading new templates from the Microsoft site, they should pretty much automatically go to the right destination folder.

You’ll want/need to buy stainless steel screws. There should be short ones already in the door that you can take out and match, but get longer. For my dishwasher, the install involved taking these shorter screws out that were in place in the naked door and switching them to longer ones that then attached to panel to the naked door. At the bottom of the naked door there were spots for little clips that you lock in first before you screw in the screws. Without the clips you can probably just use more screws, but it might be trickier to get the door perfectly straight. There are quite a few short screws in the door to allow different door combos, for example a single door panel or a drawer front + shorter door combo, so you can use several sets of screws holes to attach your door. As for your door thickness, I think it’s more a question of weight than thickness. I can’t see why the thickness would be a problem. But the weight of your thick panel might create challenges. A new panel ready DW generally comes with door spring tension set for the average weight of a custom panel. I’d say that’s a 3/4”-1” thick solid wood door. (This means the naked door is very hard to open with no panel attached). Your thicker door may be notably heavy compared to what they’re expecting. So you may need to adjust the spring tension, or your door will crash open as you pull it down. My vague recollection from the instructions was that there’s a way to adjust this tension, but I’m not sure, as I didn’t have to adjust mine. But it might be worth researching to confirm before you commit to 1.5” thickness… or maybe you’re better off going with just drawer fronts attached to a frame instead of a solid plywood layer to keep the weight down. Good luck!

Sorry I didn't get the close up seam photos yesterday the contractor was here messing the kitchen up again installing the disposal, faucet, dishwasher. They ran into a couple snags that slowed them down so now we have a functioning sink but now DW yet... getting tired of contractor time as they were supposed to show up at noon and came at 3:30, so only worked for a few hours. Anyway... back to the countertops here are the close ups of the seams! This is the seam on the counter to the right of the range - you can see why it's hard to spot from more than inches away or at an angle, because they matched the colors and grain so well. It's only about 6" from the wall and we will likely have an appliance there such as MW or toaster etc anyway. And here is the seam to the left of range. The bottom photo there is a reflection of the drawer handle on the overhang, not a mark or flaw. Finally I did find (in the daylight) the repaired notch, it's up against the wall under the wall cabinet overhang so I didn't see it with room lights. We don't have under-cabinet lights since we only have a few uppers, we can add later if we want it. This will be easily disguised by countertop items in this area such as utensil jar or canisters. We're keeping counters clear for now since the backsplash goes in next week. Even if we'd bought a second slab we would have needed a seam to the left of the range since that was the largest slab available, and the quality of the seams and their placement is completely satisfactory to us - so a second slab would have spared us only the seam to the right of range near the wall. This fabrication was by Stoneman of San Francisco, in case anyone is looking for an excellent fabricator in the bay area!