fouquieria, When you chose to highlight this, did you bother to read the responses I posted? Your comments seem a little disingenuous to me-are you really concerned about how to answer or did you want an opportunity to highlight your own skills over the OPs? The OP titled her post, "I need help with my rock garden" which indicated to me that she was sincerely looking for help. We went back and forth a little and she really does want ideas. She posted in the Hillside Garden forum, if anyone wants to pick up the thread. I think sunnyca and woodyoak are exactly right and I wish I had said more of some of what they suggested. This was my first response to her: "Is this a full-sun spot? Are you near the coast (sand?) I would put some natives in the garden. I would be sure to have a mix of sizes for variety. You could put a tree on the hill. Crape myrtle would be pretty, or a shrub that has a weeping shape to enhance the hill. Some grasses might be nice (if you are near the coast, sea oats are pretty). If the garden gets shade, hostas are always wonderful. Some evergreen plants are nice, too, so you have winter interest-do you get winter in zone 8??? Natives may do better for you, although maybe that is what you have-hard to tell from the photo and I'm no expert, anyway! You may also need to water a fair amount until everything is established. I would also partially cover some of those rocks, so they look as if they belong and aren't just dropped like marbles. Some look as if they are laid out in rows, but that could just be the camera angle. Maybe you could roll several closer to each other to make a threesome in a triangular shape (just not in a row) to mimic a larger boulder. I think it might have worked better if you had some really big stones in there, but you can still get that effect now if you want it. I think this will be lovely once your plants fill in and you did a great job with your steps. I need to do that on my hill, but I just can't lift and dig like I used to. Oh well Hope this helps. I am sure much wiser folks will give you even better ideas." I tried to give her some positive comments and to encourage her. Gardening is truly a learning experience and we all have strength and weaknesses-hers may be garden design, yours may be a lack of empathy or social skills, whatever-we all make mistakes, some more severe than others; some easier to fix than others. I know a lot of people don't appreciate the advice they get, but if I can, I will still try to help someone who asks for it. I know a lot of you are pros and your input is always terrific, but sometimes we amateurs can help some, too. Now I know she lives near Augusta GA, but in S.C., has sandy soil, etc., etc. I added a few ideas after my first follow-up. I had hoped someone would give her better advice than mine, but at least she got a response. Seems no one else was willing/able to help her and I wondered at the time if this was her first foray into posting on GW. It can be disappointing when someone gets no responses-not that any should feel obligated to answer. I think it is fine to pass when you don't feel you have anything you could say. Nonetheless, I do think it is unkind to post her pictures and then make the comments you did. Next time, just ask without showcasing someone else's weaknesses and without his/her permission. Cynthia

I have a feeling the technician was telling you the set isn't worth what it would cost to repair it. This is certainly not a DIY project.

Duration Interior Matte is a sheen above eggshell..IMO. I don't use it for that reason. The Cashmere Low Luster is much nicer finish for walls. Roller tracks are either applicator error (to much pressure) or poor quality roller cover. Use a 1/2" roller cover nap of high quality. Lay the roller on the wall with light pressure and apply the paint. Apply the paint slowly for best coverage and appearance. Michael Here is a link that might be useful: It's this easy

Take a look here, this transformation is perfect for your son's kitchen. http://www.remodelaholic.com/update-builder-grade-cabinets/ Other suggestions- 1) find someone like Trebuchet to change out your double sink for a large single sink (perhaps the same manufacturer will have one that perfectly fits the existing cutout). 2) add pullouts to your base cabinets. Ideally change them to drawers with new drawer fronts that match. 3) change stove to slide in style with stainless hood. The counter is beautiful and likely cost at least $4k installed. Not worth changing if it is not his forever home. I love my sink on the peninsula, and do think it would work well for you if the space between the arms of your "U" is about between 5- 5 1/2 feet, but changing that is not within the possibility of your budget. I like the wood flooring but that decision can be deferred if you are not changing the cabinet layout. Also the upper cabinet opening from the center over the peninsula sometimes works in in these older kitchens because the hinges allow complete 180 degree swing. In my kitchen, I deliberately added inset pin hinges to my cabinets in that location to get the 180 degree swing, and tested my reach physically so that the contents could be easily accessed. I have hidden Euro hinges with soft close on the rest of my uppers, but they only open 135 degrees. I will bet that even here at GW, nobody has ever noticed that my hinges are different in that location (benjesbride kindly linked my reveal above, the pin hinges are on the mirrored upper cabinets over the peninsula). HTH