Marvelous! Thank you, dlbkelly_cfl_rr_com and the rest! I used Bostik Dimension diamond urethane grout which I’d used before with little issue, but I apparently waited too long to wipe AND since I had varying tile thicknesses this time -- I had the clever and time-consuming idea of combining 3 different styles/brands of tile sheets -- there was more residue to clean off. My glass -- regular, polished and frosted -- and stainless/polished steel mosaic tile looked horrid. Sadly, I used the manufacturer’s suggestion of Windex and that made the area’s grout I tested just a tiny shade of bluish white instead of brilliant white - only noticeable to me but still annoying. A half-vinegar/half-water concoction worked with the bulk of the thinner residue and I finished off the thicker bits with a razor blade/glass scraper (only on the glass); the glass scraper was necessary for the frosted glass tiles but I will go over it again with a pumice stone or magic eraser as was suggested elsewhere for matte tile. The brushed stainless tiles are giving me a hard time and the polished metal tiles did get scratched by the grout/ocelo no-scratch scrub and wipe sponges but a huge improvement! If this hadn’t worked, I’d have to run out and get the Bostik Blaze which is also good for urethane grout haze clean-up.

Yeah, I can imagine the oil made a mess. May I suggest something? Buy some corn starch at your local grocery, sprinkle it lightly over the stain and let it sit. How long? As long as you wish, I'd try overnight. The next day,vacuum up the CS and it may look a lot better. Good luck!

Congratulations on your renovations! A word of warning! I too used the 511 Impregnator sealer, it is a good one. However, 2 coats may not be enough "if" the grout used was soupy wet like hotcake batter. While drying, air bubbles will escape leaving pin size holes in the grout. It will take several coats of sealer to fill the grout pin holes. Dirt will be very difficult if not impossible to remove from grout lines if you stop short of applying enough sealer to really seal the grout. The soupy wet grout is what many tile installers use because it is easier to apply the grout and easy cleanup. Yes, the sealer you are using is very expensive, at least it was when I used it ($85 a quart). Regardless of price keep applying until the grout is completely filled with sealer. Otherwise, you will always have a problem getting the grout clean. One way to test if grout is completely sealed after it has completely dried is to put a drop of water on the grout. If it soaks in it is not sealed. If it stands on top of the grout line it is sealed.

It looks like there is a notch already in the "curb" at perimeter of the drive. But the grade surrounding it to too high, and therefore damming water, preventing it from escaping. The grade needs to be lowered along a path similar to the blue line I've added here: Once the path is created to where it no longer obstructs the flow, then its grade would blend to the surrounding grade. In other words, you don't want to end up with it looking like a channel is cut through the yard. You want to blend the bottom of the channel with the adjacent grade so that it is smooth and visually undetectable, and easy to mow over. While the cure is conceptually easy, it may not be easy to actually create on account of established turf being in the way, and the grade-blending process would occupy a band of ground that is several feet (say like 6'- 8') in width Rather that destroying all that sod in order to redo the grading. It would be better to cut it off cleanly with a sod cutter. Perform the grade blending, (There will be some soil to haul away) And then replace the sod and treat it the same as any newly laid sod.