Sorry my post isn't too clear. I was talking about these individually-wrapped felt pads soaked in nail polish remover. You'll find them in any drug store or beauty supply store. They worked better than the regular liquid remover. Believe me, when that bottle of black polish shattered, I tried using both products methods to get the marks up. i ended up using about 20 of the pads to get all the polish off my bathroom. The only place I can still see a little shadow is in the grout lines of the ceramic bathroom floor tiles.

Thanks everyone. Will try them all. Gayle, it was my DD's friend that did it so I can't ground her. I love this girl but I can count on something happening every time she's here. She's like an elephant in a china shop! I also notice some of the nail polish on the leather sofa! Uuurgghh! She's just a wrecking ball!

Acetone (fingernail polish remover) is actually a product used in removing stains from granite. Fingernail polish remover has not hurt my porcelain tile or granite counters (or my glass sink). I dropped a bottle of clear top coat on the porcelain bathroom floor/ I was able to scrap it up off the floor once it dried. But, it also go on my practically new dark stained cabinets. I waited till DH got home to discuss the best way to remove it. He said, "I would just leave it. You're the only one that will know it's there and any attempt to remove me will probably do more damage". So until/if someone can offer a tried and true way to remove it, I'll just live with it. I paint my nails in my bathroom and sometimes sitting in bed.

This thread is actually really old but I felt I should mention something different bc I did not see this as a possible solution for those who are trying to remedy the problem of sheen damage to their cabinet doors. Rubbing a dull sheen when cleaning can buff up the sheen making that area noticeably stand out with high sheen spot. Just as a door with a higher sheen can be rubbed with a more abrasive material or chemical this can have a lowering of the sheen effect. In either case a good approach to this would be first to ensure to prep the surface before applying any type of sheen corrector on it . !st Best way is to first use a damp cloth mild soap and water (Dawn is a safe brand to use) to remove sugary film or grease residue on surface. 2nd Once clean and dry you will want to lightly sand with a super fine grit 2000 sand paper the area so that the sheens both shiny and dull are fading into each other. This will make it easier to coceal when you touch up the area. 3rd Identify what kind of material is used on cabinets. It is important because if the product your cabinets are not catalyzed what ever you use can have an adverse reaction to ti. For instance am uncatalyzed poly or an oil enamel finish will not be able to be touched up with a clear lacquer spray , reaction could make the finish crinckle and lift. To ensure this does not occur it is best to test out a small area . Preferrably the back of a drawer front for a reaction prior to using a clear lacquer spray can. 4th Choose to spray the back of a door to get the hang of sheen blending by first lightly sanding with 2000 and then lightly spraying that area . Choose the appropriate sheen level by Using a easy to spray touch up spray can like deft or valspar Clear Lacquer Matt, Satin , Semigloss or gloss, spray a light coat starting from one end of the AFFECTED AREA TO THE OTHER. These spray coating are very light and thin making it easy to blend into finish. If you are not satisfied with the first pass . You may need to hit this area again , keep in mind of blending your mist coat so that it basically disappears into the original sheen. Practicing on the back of a door is important to do so you can have the confidence and experience to hit the faces of the doors to be corrected.