Can I paint the cement board while waiting years for tile?
bayareafrancy
13 years ago
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johnfrwhipple
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agobayareafrancy
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
PermaBase� Cement Board without waterproofing
Comments (18)You asked if this can be fixed without removing the tub. Yes. It would be a matter of removing the cement board with the attached tile from above the tub. Unless this is the world's worst tile job, that tile isn't coming off the cement board any time soon, so it all goes together. You may cry, but they need to take a hammer to your new tile to get at the board underneath. It's unlikely that there is cement board down behind the tub. Most tubs (all?) are designed to be installed next to the studs. For the bit of wall in front of the tub, they use a skinny piece of cement board to cover that space. Do you need to remove showerhead, etc.? Sort of. You need to unscrew the fixtures from the underlying plumbing pipes and cap the lines until the work is done. Not a big deal. That tubs and showers need to be waterproofed as StoneTech described is not something known only to those in the know. The 18 year old kid in the tile isle at HD knows this, I know this, there is no way a contractor doesn't know this. My guess is 1) someone forgot to staple up the poly, which is a cheap and quick job, before they hung the cement board and they decided to forget it, or 2) he took a short cut and figured he'd be gone before you discovered the wall damage. In any case, you have a problem. Yes, the whole tile job needs to come down and done over. Having just done this same job (DIY) in our own bath, I would suggest that Kerdi is overkill for a tub enclosure, but you can if you want. We hemmed and hawed and finally went with HydroBan, but the poly is also acceptable. Grout and cement board are both permeable - there has to be a barrier. If all is right in the world, your contractor owes you for demo, materials, and re-do....See MoreHelp - refacing - how to attach cement board to brick fireplace??
Comments (3)With regard to the heat, very little of the cement board should really be exposed to any meaningful heat (only the part immediately bordering the firebox opening on the sides and a larger piece directly above the opening). In any event you will have to figure out how you are going to trim the edges that abut the opening. You could install the cement board so that it ends a few of inches away from the opening and fill in the rest with a high temperature mortar mix - typically made from a regular mortar mix with some "fire clay" mixed in. You can get this clay from most building supply stores and it will have directions on it for the optimal mix. You probably want to use this same mix to install the tile along the firebox edges in any event, as regular thinset or mortar tends to crumble after a while from the large temperature swings next to the firebox opening....See MoreI've waited 3 years...
Comments (19)Oh so glad you liked it! When I read your post, I thought, "Well, that sound kind of like my post a few years ago..." Details: cabinets BM Linen White walls BM Coastal Fog Sink: IKEA Domsjo double sink Counters: Costa Esmeralda granite Backsplash: Emser Cape Cod series tiles. They are actually crackle, not sure if you can see that. hardware: IKEA Island: bought as an old dresser off CL, added the walnut top and legs ourselves Barstools: World Market seagrass Drawers, hood change-out, and cabinet over fridge done by local carpenter. The drawers, sink, island, granite and wallcolor are my favorites parts. I love the subway tile on the back, but truly, we barely notice or see the crackle, so plain subway would probably be just as good. I would definitely spend a few dollars to have some of those lower cabs turned into drawers. It is amazing how much easier storing and retrieving are. If you send me your email, I'll send you a photo of our original kitchen and you'll be even more excited!...See Moreoldbat2b - I made my sample board - can you photo shop this please?
Comments (65)We had a false start Saturday, but 3/4 done right now and super happy! So glad ABB is almost a memory. I will post a shot without grout when they leave and another in a few days with the grout. Going with mapai white still and will use the keracaulk as advised. Thank you again. Anyone who is considering this tile - we have no regrets. It would go well with greens, grays, whites, blacks, and tans. It wouldn't interfere with a busy countertop (IMHO) and has enough variation to give some interest to our essentially solid black counter and white cabinets. A small number of tiles have imperfections, but they are the ones being cut for ends and corners, so not really wasted much....See Morebill_vincent
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agosombreuil_mongrel
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoterezosa / terriks
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agobayareafrancy
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojohnfrwhipple
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agobayareafrancy
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoMongoCT
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojohnfrwhipple
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojohnfrwhipple
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojohnfrwhipple
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoterezosa / terriks
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojohnfrwhipple
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoantss
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agojohnfrwhipple
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoritelec
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoenduring
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoHU-350951875
4 years agoteddytoo
4 years ago
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