In the interest of brevity, (for prolixity search this forum on keywords such as plume, effluent, MUA, hood, etc.), here are a few maxims: The air velocity at the baffles has to be high enough to keep the rising and expanding cooking plume from reflecting down and out of the hood. This value is proportional to the velocity of the rising plume, which is proportional to the temperature of the cooking surface (for large surfaces), and of the flame combustion product (for small surfaces, large flames, and obviously gas cooktops). I recommend 90 ft/min for general all-purpose success, but with modest induction cooking, you might get away with only 60 or 70 ft/min. Feet per minute is equivalent to CFM per square foot of hood entrance aperture. The hood entrance aperture should overlap the pan surfaces by enough to encompass at least a 10-degree half angle from the contour of possible surfaces bounds (except where constrained by a wall). Obviously, as the hood height is increased, the size has to increase to meet this angle. From the above two results, the required total flow rate (CFM) is calculated. Duct diameter should be such that the velocity of the air inside is in the 1000 to 2000 ft/min range to minimize grease deposition. The higher end of this range may be best in warm climates. Blowers are usually rated for flow rate at zero static pressure, i.e., hanging in the air. In a ventilation system there is restriction that causes pressure drops (called loss). As pressure loss increases, flow rate decreases according to the fan curve of the blower. The CFM rating should be some multiple of the CFM required. The exact multiple depends on many things, including the fan curve, different for each blower, and MUA restriction. I recommend using a factor of 1.5 to be safe with open windows for MUA. (Note that screens will have a pressure loss depending on the open window space.) I will skip MUA maxims in this message, as open windows in southern CA should be adequate. Please search on MUA to find out about hazards of low interior house pressure with combustion appliances. kas

Look at ModernAire, VentAHood, Bluestar and other similar companies. They all can build you 54+" (48" plus required overhang) hoods, and they can install sufficiently powerful fans. But it won't be cheap. And you almost certainly will need a make up air system for a hood size. Read the archives. There are lots of detailed discussions on what you need if you want your hood to be more than a glorified noise maker.

If you want the hood to not be a focal point, then you need a different hood design choice. An under cabinet hood. A hood like either of those pictured demands to be a focal point. Any vertical focal area will dominate over a horizontal one. To make the island be the star, the rest of the choices have er to fade to the background more. A 3rd party conversion varnish to match your existing cabinets will never 100% match from a different source. It won’t even really match if you get the finish from the manufacturer due to technical needs for thinning for different guns, and the different hand of the applicator spraying. You always need to purchase the matching pieces from the manufacturer if it is right next to the others. It can’t be a shade off. The cost for a specialty spray small job premium, plus everything else, and you won’t really be saving any money.

@opaone raises an important point that I'd like to expand upon. Commercial hood operation and its MUA support is one of the highest cost activities for commercial kitchens. The hoods run for long durations, and often require air conditioned make-up air, at least into any restaurant customer area where the pressure is set a tad higher to keep out kitchen odors. Commercial systems are thus designed for power efficiency. In residences, the hoods are operated for shorter periods of time, and typically (where MUA is nearly free) the cost of operation is small in the overall household power budget. Affordability then tends to be a matter of capital cost -- buying the hood, blower, ducting, and its MUA counterpart components and installing them. Striving for power efficiency through higher capital costs will take a very long time to pay off. Also, typical residential kitchens are ill suited aesthetically and space-wise for incorporating commercial hoods. The intermediate case is where the household is subject to stringent air quality requirements that cannot be met by just fresh air exchange. In such as case, treating MUA can be expensive, and the requirement for almost total cooking plume removal requires a large hood, high flow rate, and a lot of MUA. Here, commercial or quasi-commercial systems like opaone has incorporated may be optimal from an overall cost and performance point of view.