Problem with New Shower Drains - x-post with plumbing
trinintybay
12 years ago
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Comments (10)
MongoCT
12 years agoRelated Discussions
X-post Plumbing - what is this thing under my overflow cover?
Comments (5)Plumbing supply place says unless I can take one off (have one on tub in unfinished bathroom, have access to the back of that in case gasket slips) and bring it in, they can't help w/o a manufacturer. They don't know if anyone makes one in SS. Price Pfister uses these, don't see why modular factory would use PP drain with Delta faucet. Gerber also uses them. Builder has no idea what factory used/uses. I emailed the plumber who did the onsite work for us, I trust him, he found cracked pipe b/t floors (looks like someone dropped something on it before shipping he said), saved us a *big* mess there. He says these are only used to hold pipe to tub during install, should be OK to remove now as long as I'm careful that gasket stays in place. We want to finish the master bath this year, install a filter for the iron problem, so maybe I'll have *him* remove this one at that time (we're going to replace trim on master tub with color that actually matches the faucet - don't know why they put in cheap plastic "chrome" when we got Delta ORB faucets - not installed since bathroom needs tub deck tiled 1st). I may cut out the sheetrock on the other side of the wall (a cubby for the hamper) and put in a panel for access in this bathroom too. As long as we take care of this now, should be OK. Besides the cosmetic issue of rust, I was worried that the screws would corrode so much that when we needed to replace the gasket, they'd just break off. I didn't loosen them, but after I took the pic, I cleaned it as best I could with it in place. I think hot steamy showers and spray hitting body then bouncing back against spout/overflow are causing this to stay wet most of the time (4 people, 1 shower and the kids like them *hot*!)....See MoreHow to connect concealed tub drain on slab?? X-post frm bathrooms
Comments (5)... methinks the seller is right. You have said you have NO access under the slab. Is it a slab on grade? Is it a slab in a condo, and you don't want to break apart your downstairs neighbor's bathroom ceiling? Is is something else? According to the diagram that comes with the tub, the P trap is under the slab. Although it's not shown in the illustration, it is nonetheless obvious to many people. You (or your plumber) need to figure out is where you'll place the P trap, under the slab, which kind of pipe to use (tubular chromed brass, copper DWV, ABS, PVC, etc) and which associated slip joint ("lock nut") to use, and how you'll vent this line if it's being built new or rebuilt in any way -- and all that is a Master Plumber subject, not a tub sales subject. My bet is that your plumber is not a Master Plumber, but a repair kind of guy who knows how to fix faucets and a whole lot more, too. There is nothing to gain by calling the tub people. There is almost no information provided in your diagrams posted above, in terms that would help us know how to advise you on how to connect the tub to the P trap. It does show the slip joint, "lock nut" which may be your key to getting the tub drain secure and watertight --- but only someone on site would know for sure. Now, with no access under the slab, your big Question is how to raise the tub just enough that you'll manage to turn that slip joint shown under the tub and then make that gap look imperceptible later. Remember that you may want to be able to unscrew it one day too. Note that it is wise to be able to test it too -- and with no access underneath, you may be unable to test for leaks. This may be do-able, or maybe not... I think posting a diagram showing the drain lines you have under your slab, including venting, will give the right information for plumbers to know if 1st of all you can hope to just tighten the slip joint shown. hth...See MoreSlow drain in bathroom sink (x-post)
Comments (7)For my reno, they replaced a number of the old pipes with copper, and they had to move the sink pipe over a few inches to accomodate a larger sink; that had to be cast iron. They didn't replace the main pipes that run up and down between floors - just my "off-shoots". The sink ran fine for the first month or two - it's just the last couple of weeks that it got slow... It will make me CRAZY if we have to open the wall to do anything with this since the work was just done!!! It is interesting to me that running very hot water seems to clear it up, but then it gets slow again. What would account for that??? Initially I thought it might be some sort of soap clog that the hot water was melting through, but maybe not pushing all the way down... does that make any sense???...See MoreX-Post w/Plumbing Forum
Comments (13)I don't know why you would need two hot water heaters for two people in that size house. My house is 4000 sqft and we have one hot water heater and two people. We are never short of hot water unless we run several things at once like the dishwasher and washing machine or shower. MY Oklahoma house had a small short under counter hot water tank in the kitchen in the corner cabinet beside the dishwasher and the main hot water heater for the rest of the house. We did have a plumbing company come give estimates which was thousands of dollars. Then we went to Lowes and talked to their plumbing department and got a better lifetime warranty hot water heater and their plumbing company installed it for about half of the price the other company had quoted. We were extremely pleased with the price and the professionals that they sent out. We did have to have a permit pulled from the city for changing the hot water heater, be sure you check that in your city, and everything passed he said it was a very good job. I had no idea that a permit had to be pulled but the city said any time you touch electrical, plumbing, or gas it must be permitted and inspected for code. And a badly installed hot water heater can be extremely dangerous, it can flood, it can blow up like a bomb and if gas it can kill you with carbon monoxide if not properly vented. Check Lowes.. I wish I had thankless but they are really expensive. They are really a great way to go in an RV, lots of companies using them....See Moretrinintybay
12 years agodavidro1
12 years agojohnfrwhipple
12 years agotrinintybay
12 years agotrinintybay
12 years agoAvanti Tile & Stone / Stonetech
12 years agotrinintybay
12 years agoIntoodeep
12 years ago
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