"My walls are going to be painted tongue and groove pickwick paneling (v. similar to beadboard), so I don't think I can tile to that--or can I?" You can tile on wood. But it does depend on the tile that you are using as well as the intended adhesive. Some of this is personal preference, what I mean is that if using "regular sized porcelain tile" sure, I'd not have a problem going over properly prepared wood. For glass mosaic? No. The better bet would be to mark out the area for the backsplash. Then come in a half-inch or so from that perimeter line and mark a new cut line. In that area instead of your wood paneling, insert a fill piece of cement backer board. Pad out the backer board so the face is flush with the wood paneling. Then you can do whatever you want on that space. Glass, ceramic, stone, mosaic, non-mosaic. And you can use the appropriate adhesive. With the backer board being slightly smaller than the tiled area, your top course and side column tiles will lap over the backerboard/paneling seam for a nice transition. If the edges of your intended tiles don't have a level of finish appropriate for exposure, then you could use a border or frame (wood or tile) to contain the design, just like in the photo above. Mongo

Positano-- Sorry this is a little late-- I didn't see your reply when you posted it. But in answer to it, you might want to read a thread that Stacey posted over at "that other tile forum" (GW won't let me post the name for some reason or a link) called Help solve MYSTERY? Marble tile shower floor always "wet" in some areas?. To this day, I still don't know what caused the problem, nor does anyone else, no matter WHAT they (Artistic Tile) say. No one can prove to me what the problem was, and every possibility that's been suggested, I can tear apart technically speaking. Even one of the top forensic experts in the country (Dave Gobis) got in on this, and couldn't come up with a definitive answer. One thing I DO know for sure, though. I was skeptical about sealing the floor to start with, and after it was sealed, moisture had trouble excaping the stone, and it stayed dark in areas. After I tore it up and redid it, Stacey left it unsealed, and she's had no discoloration problems (or any others, that I know about!) since.

LOL! Okay Kerdi it is! Thank you! Bill, I can't do a wet room because this is going to be the "Corridor as Bathroom" Appoximately 10 X 4 1/2+. can you believe it? Well, at least it'll be bigger than it is now, 5 1/2 X 4 1/2+ (no I'm not kidding, I guess people in the seventies just liked bumping their funny bones on everything). Anyway, I just can't afford to put tile on all that area. However, the shower will be nice and deep and I plan to put a stationary glass panel to keep most of the water in. Some may splash a bit on the floor outside, but that'll be okay since it'll be Kerdi'ed! I want to do a wet room, but I just can't... Hey, do you still recommed Dal-Tile tiles? I'm thinking of going less expensive on the field tiles. I have to cut costs in this bathroom. Thanks again guys. Ivette P.S. Mongo, go find some protein....

Kendog-- As to the first two choices, I think either one would aork aestheitcally speaking. It would really be a matter of which look YOU like best. We're planning to use pencil rail around our niches as well as above and below the stone and glass liner. Would it look best with pencil around the window as well or could we just overlap the tile there? I would NEVER just overlap the tiles. Being you're going to use the pencil liner for trimming the niche, I don't think it would look out of place if you were to trim out the window as well. The pencil trim has a higher profile than the tile. Should all of it be cut down at the back to make it more flush with the tile if we use it to cover the edge where the tile meets the wall? No-- it's MADE to have that kind of protruding profile. Trim will be needed on the opposite wall where the half wall ends or maybe we could try to bullnose this with a router? The color of the tile edge nearly matches the color of the tile face. Nearly isn't close enough. Either it's exact, or it's not good enough. If you'd rather not use the pencil liners there, I'd use one of Schluter's bullnosing strips. as for the curb, you could always use a marble threshold, thereby elliminating the need for bullnose. Not sure about yours, but most curbs, after backerboard and tile, are about 5 1/2" wide, and a 6" wide threshold set flush to the tile on the outside of the curb, will give you just enough of an overhang on the inside to provide for a nice drip edge. This will do a couple of things for you. First, it'll provide another layer of protection for the curb. Secondly, it'll provide for a nice flat surface for the shower door to sit on, and third, it looks alot nicer than two back to back bullnose pieces. Like this: The floor is about 18 square feet. Do you think it would work well if we cut our wall tile into 4 inch squares to use for the floor? Could we just sand the edges to make them smooth or would we need to use a router? You COULD cut them down, but if the floor isn't perfectly flat, you could end up with uncomfortable edges under your feet. Again, unless the face and edge of the tile look exactly the same, you don't want to use ANY kind of abraiding process (router, sand paper, grinder, polishing wheels) that will show in the finished product. Our tile is rectified porcelain and we'd like to use 1/16 grout lines if possible. If it's rectified, that shouldn't be a problem.