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Building a Home

Low-E 366 Windows

10 years ago

Has anybody gone with the low-e 366 windows? How do you like them? Have any pictures of these windows in your homes that you'd like to share? Thanks so much for the input!

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Comments (8)

jdez
10 years ago
We bought them. We are still building, though, so I can't say if I like them. They look good to me.
robynstamps
10 years ago
They look nice Jdez!
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Beth, Standard Low-e reduces the amount of UV transmission by a massive margin. There is even less UV with Low-e 366, even less with triple pane, and even less with laminated glass. You could reduce the UV transmission to 0% (statistically) and still fade furniture, floors, etc. to some extent. Visible light will fade surfaces even if there is no UV transmission. If you have an area that faces south, design the space with interior finishes that are less light sensitive and incorporate some blinds for the summer months for light, heat, and fading control. Given the climate of Michigan, setting the home up for passive solar (i.e. surfaces on the South facing elevation that can absorb and store the Sun's radiant energy like stone floors) will make the home more efficient. Most homes that are designed around passive solar incorporate some blinds on those surfaces to limit the loss of heat during the nigh time winter hours as well as control the heat gain in the summertime.
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There have been several posts on this forum from people with windows with LoE366 instead of LoE272 reporting a tint on the windows and dark interiors. But from what you wrote, it doesn't sound like you have much choice in this. If it were me, $200 would be a small amount compared to the tens of thousands that a house's windows cost. I would try to get the LoE272 on your north-facing windows at the least. A time delay of a couple weeks to make the windows order doesn't seem like much if you will be living in this house for years. Do not think that Marvin's Lo366 glass is any different from Andersen's or Pella's or other large manufacturers'. All the large windows manufacturers get their glass from Cardinal Glass Industries. What differs among the windows manufacturers is how the windows are constructed and materials used other than the glass portion. But the glass will be the same among the manufacturers.
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If this is conditioned space then I would not even consider using clear glass IG units on any of the windows. Replacing the existing dual-pane glass with modern IG units that have low conductance spacers and LoE-272 with argon fill is going to make the room a lot more comfortable as well as significantly improving condensation resistance of the glass when it's cold outside. If this is unconditioned space then using coated IG's will result in a slightly more comfortable room in summer, but probably not so much in winter depending how much sunlight the doors/windows receive. Tempering glass is for safety and has no effect on whether or not to use coated glass or not.
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Comments (5)
Mrschlab, Oberon476 gives some seriously spectacularly helpful information. I wish he'd come to my house and tell me which manufacturer to purchase from for my upcoming renovation and how to get what I want with my window and door impact glass :) I am currently also in the hell of LowE, clear glass or tinted glass decision-making process. The previous owners put one SGD (two 3' panels) facing north and two more SGDs (seven 3' panels). They are CWS vinyl frame LowE366 Argon IG units that were installed in 2014/2015 on the east side of our house. Bear in mind the remaining impact-resistant windows are clear glass on the west side of the house (go figure). Those were installed in 2009 (my guess from the etching on the glass, I find no permit indicating when they were installed) I brought home this luxury vinyl sample; this is how I realized the extent of the change in the color of the natural light coming in through the LowE366-laden SGDs. Because I'm choosing a specific tone on the flooring product, I don't want the color/hue/tone changed by the windows. The LVP is a warm-neutral tone, but not yellow or honey colored LVP. I wanted to see what the LVP looks like on a sunny day, so I took it out back one morning. Then I brought it inside and set it down next to the SGD (with the LowE366). Below are the results. (I mention that the LowE366 SGDs were installed in 2014 because I don't know if the LowE366 color changes with time or if the fact that they're IG units has an effect; or maybe in 2014, CWS used an obscure LowE product-- I do not know these answers.) Also, keep in mind that the phone camera and subsequent computer image may not be an exact representation of the colors, but to my eye right now looking at the computer screen, the colors are 99% accurate. The first photo was taken in the morning sun on the east side of the house in sunny South Florida through the LowE-366 SGD. The second photo was taken when I opened the door to go out with natural sunlight on the LVP and rug below it. Is the hue of light from the sun coming into the house drastically changed by the LowE366? You be the judge. (I say YES) Also, when I look at the LVP in the afternoon on the west side of the house with sun coming in through clear glass, the tone of the LVP is yet again a natural wood tone, just like you see with the door open. I did have to close the plantation shutters on the east-facing LowE366 SGDs to control the experiment so the only incoming light came in through the clear glass of the west-facing windows. Hope my pathologically detailed research helps you make your decision :) All it helped me do was rule out LowE 366 and plan on shade for my new SGDs and windows.
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jdez
10 years ago
Well thank you robynstamps.
montel (CA US 10b/Sunset 16)
10 years ago
We have Low-E 366 glass in most of our home...

Originally we went with Low-E 366 only on our SW/West upstairs windows, but due to some changes we were able to switch out any of the other SW/WEST/NW windows to the Low-E366 glass.

We have a ton of glass, and it keeps us from cooking.

As a side note last year we had a casement window sash unit replaced under warranty, the replacement was mistakenly ordered as standard Low-E2 glass. This was in a combination window so the picture window right next to it was still Lo-e3 366 - when it was replaced you could barely tell the difference - I could feel a bit more heat through it, but the light and color were almost impossible to tell the difference - we did have them switch it to the correct glass, but it was quite interesting to see how close the two types were side by side.

Here are 3 windows in our kitchen that are 366 glass
mkotschnig
9 years ago
I'm so happy I saw this (ok, I'm about 5 months behind, but still...). Was having some concerns about having to use low-e 366 glass but this looks great in your photo. Nice kitchen, too! Thanks!
Brian_Knight
9 years ago
I have to point out that window flashing is important, few builders or designers know how to do it right, and JDez's picture seems to be an example of how not to do it. Hard to tell but the WRB should be lapped over the top flange and the bottom flange should not be taped over.

This post was edited by Brian_Knight on Wed, Aug 6, 14 at 14:43
energy_rater_la
9 years ago
I agree with flashing being very important, and
that few do it correctly.
I'd be willing to bet that the stine housewrap is cut in
a big ol X for window to be installed.
(we have stine in my area...where ya at jdez??)

flashing tapes make proper flashing easier, but
even tape is applied sides first..top over sides
and bottom left open for any moisture to escape.

more than low e 366...I look for solar heat gain coeffieient
& u-value numbers. these numbers should be on nfrc sticker
on all windows that are independently tested.

best of luck
Brian_Knight
9 years ago
Great point! The energy codes have different requirements based on climate. Dont assume your window supplier, builder, or designer is looking out for your best interests here if its a point that has not been brought up.

The observation of the big ol X is spot on. The newer method of "modified I" cut would be apparent by diagonal tape off the top corners. Not saying it wont work but there is no way that huber Zip tape is approved with that particular WRB. The apparent taped over crinkles and button caps is giving bulk water an open invitation to come inside. Probably safe to say this builder did not give the water an easy escape path (sloped, flashed rough sill). Even if it doesnt leak through the flashing tape, eventually the seal between frame and window will probably leak and when it does it will rot the framing below.

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