Sorry for the mess. I think "panel ready" means there is no panel at all, so you either have to add one to match your cabinets, or add a stainless or other front.

Thanks much for all of the advice so quickly. Yes, we have a lot of decisions to make right now (heat and water are our first priorities).

plllog--Those are some very interesting ideas. We have a period kitchen with a mix of original 1920s/1930s cabinets and custom cabinets made to match, so I can't imagine that I'd ever find any standard manufactured cabinetry that would be close. So, that idea is out.

I think we'll be in the situation where either the dishwasher doesn't need replacement and still runs (in which case we'll keep it until it dies a natural death) or where we will need to immediately buy a replacement. We've got replacement insurance, so I'd just be looking at a splurge upgrade from what they'd pay for a new dishwasher. And, I'd have to balance that money out with factoring in the extra other things we'll be upgrading and paying for over what the insurance will pay to fix things. We've decided that it is worth it to us to do certain upgrades and fixes since all of this work is being done anyway, so we know we'll be spending money.

So, bottom line, it sounds as though I probably should investigate and research a regular dishwasher and a panel-ready so I would be ready for either situation.

All the help is much appreciated.

Short version of what the rambling end of my last meant: If you have to buy the new dishwasher and are okay with the high end model, but not for the quality of carpenter to match your cabinets (and given your description, I'd up my guess to $500-1000, especailly if you want a faux framed cabinet, rather than just a panel that's the right color), you could put in a self-made covered plywood panel for the moment and get the carpenter in a year or two to do it up right. :)

I guess I never thought about a temporary fix and waiting a while. that is not such a bad idea. Thanks again.

I saw a cool dishwasher in This Old House magazine that the home owner had covered with that tin ceiling-like backsplash material. It looked really nice and sounded pretty easy. Maybe you could do that instead of worrying about a panel?

back40jen--An interesting concept. thanks for the idea. Right now I am contemplating all ideas.

Dear Need,
First of all, your question is NOT stupid; if it were you would have received and needed only one response. With all the helpful posts, I would call this a good question - and it was one for which I needed an answer, myself, a few months ago.

The cost of a "custom" panel might not be as expensive as one might think if you donâÂÂt look at it as a âÂÂcustom panelâÂÂ, but as a simple âÂÂcabinet door & drawer frontâÂÂ. If your cabinet maker gave you an estimate or design with basic details, look for a 24" base cabinet. The cabinet front is exactly what you need.

A cabinet is a simple box with no top and a âÂÂdoor & drawer frontâ which is built separately and attached to the front of the "box". If you can find a 24" base cabinet on your design or estimate, that would be the cost minus (probably) $100 for the box. The resulting panel could be even less if it has a drawer front with no âÂÂdrawer boxâ to build nor full-extension drawer slides to add.

The measurements would need to be modified slightly⦠The very top edge of the new face frame would/should be 1/4 lower than the top edges of the adjacent cabinet to allow it to swing out from under the lip of the countertop. Actually, the 1/4 inch gap may not be right - the gap should be exactly the size of the gap between the D/W door and the underside of the countertop lip - measured with the DW closed. That way, when you open it, the wood will be level with the D/W controls - but the most important thing is that the faux cabinetâÂÂs drawer (& door) should be aligned to the cabinets on either side.

I did my kitchen with stock cabinets so I just ordered an extra 24â base cabinet, took the front off and chucked the rest. Of course I had to screw the drawer front and the door front to the face frame - screwing from the back. With a custom cabinet you could have the cabinet maker do that part too and since you wouldnâÂÂt have the extra stuff I chucked, it should be cheaper - but that's logical and whatâÂÂs logical in DIY projects.