What's the best way to intersect 2 marble pencil mouldings?
spanky67
14 years ago
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tuesday22
14 years agoRelated Discussions
This room and $2k, what would you do?
Comments (22)Thanks everyone for the replies! So I'll start shopping around for stone remnants and see what I can come up with for a remnant. Pal- there is no box behind that light fixture. I just switched out the same light fixture in the upstairs bathroom and there is no box; just wires coming out of the wall behind that fixture. I checked with the folks over in the home remodeling forum and they said that the way my wires are set up is consistent with code and is fine. I just don't have as many options when it comes to light fixtures because I'll need one with a significant backplate on it. What do you think of these as possible light fixtures? (the first light fixture is Dolce by Corbett lighting. I've tried to upsize the photo with not much success). Also, what do you think of framing the mirror in a thin piece of moulding, then doing a tile inset, surrounded by another piece of moulding, like this on houzz.com. [contemporary bathroom design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by sacramento interior designer Kerrie L. Kelly...See MoreWay cool Lee Valley organizers: way too much?
Comments (29)lowspark--OT, but can you tell me what your counters are? They're lovely. Thanks! Sorry I'm just now answering this! But thank you!! They are Paradiso granite. I love them! A question for those of you who constructed a sleeve of wood around the perimeter of the box for the Lee Valley channels to attach to -- is that sleeve made of the same 1/4" lathe material? How did you make it come together, just glue it at the ends? It doesn't need to be held together. Everything just slips into the drawer and interconnects and fits. It's just a frame made from the wood strips. The LV brackets are pounded into those strips just the same as they are pounded into the divider strips in the middle of the drawer. As long as you measure and cut everything to fit, you don't need glue or any other kind of attachment. Did you make it or did your cabinet guy. Does this have a bottom or only the sides? I made it all. And I'm generally NOT handy. No bottom, just sides. So, what I did was put all my utensils in the drawer as I wanted them to be laid out. Then I measured everything and drew myself a picture. Measure the inside perimiter of the drawer. Measure how long each divider should be. Then I diagram this on paper, noting the length of each divider and the location of each bracket on the diagram. Note when measuring: keep in mind that the bracket itself has some thickness. So if you are going to nail a bracket into one strip of wood and the opposite strip, and slip the third strip into those brackets, if the strips of wood are say, 5" apart, your connecting strip is not going to be 5". It'll be something more like 5-7/8". I don't remember exactly. So do an experiment with your first cut before doing all the permanent cuts. Measure, cut, then see how far apart the border strips are compared to how long the connecting strip is. That'll tell you how much shorter to make the strips than the actual width. Then I count up what to cut. Make a list: 2 14", 2 12", 6 5.5", etc. Like that. Then I cut. Then I sand. Then I lay all the strips in the drawer just to make sure they were cut right. It's sort of a manual process: hold this strip here and this strip there and make sure the third strip fits where it's supposed to. It's a confirmation I cut everything right before going on to the next step. Then I stain & lacqueur. Staining and lacqueuring is extra and optional but I wanted to give it all a finished look. Then I go back to my diagram and see where each bracket needs to be on each piece of wood and measure and mark the wood with pencil. Then I pound in each bracket using a rubber mallet. Then I begin placing each strip of wood in the drawer. Start with the frame which, if you measured and cut correctly, will slip right into the drawer, meeting at the corners. Then the strips which connect to the frame go in by just slipping them into the divider channels. Then the strips that go into those strips, etc. Till all the strips of wood are in, all the brackets are occupied. So for me, the process takes a couple of hours of work on the first day to measure, cut and sand. Then I lay out all the strips and do the staining and lacqueuring which spans over 4 days as I do side one, let it dry, then do the flip side each for stain and lacqueur. Once everything is dry on the fifth day, I put it together inside the drawer as described above. Like I said, I'm not generally handy. This was somewhat labor intensive by MY standards but not really hard. The hardest part was measuring and remeasuring to make sure everything was cut right. I used a jigsaw to cut the wood strips because they are thin and don't need a heavy duty saw. I did them over time. For each drawer, I set aside a day of a weekend for the main work then did the wet stuff over the week and installed on the following weekend. Took me about two months before all the drawers were done since I didn't do them all at the same time or even on consecutive weekends. I will say that I'm thrilled with the results and it was worth the effort! The whole frame lifts up and can be removed for easy cleaning Yes, and if at some point in the future, I decide to reconfigure it, the drawer itself is intact with no holes or damage. That was important to me so the frame was a requirement. I was not going to pound a bunch of holes into these drawers I'd just gotten through shelling out thousands of dollars for! LOL...See MoreFireplace makeover ideas take 2
Comments (20)Thanks everyone - yes we are keeping the red it looks great with the new tile, and gives our living room some warmth and color! The contractors are coming back to do the kitchen backsplash next week (after counters go in tomorrow) so they need to touch up some of the wall patch, there are a couple spots that need attention before we do the touch up paint. Of course it will look much better with the paint repaired but I was too excited not to share. The hearth will be easier to keep clean and it's much safer than the raised heath. In fact the doors fit perfectly this way because they would have overlapped the top more if they could not extend down below where the hearth was before....See MoreWhat is the best installation for sinks?
Comments (39)I looked at everything online, thought hard about a wall-hung Eurostyle vanity only one drawer deep. I just don't think a wall-hung is a good idea. I will at some point end up having a knee or hip "go out" temporarily and will need to grab the counter and put my weight on it. If I do that on a wall-hung, I can pull it off the wall. So I am back to having a vanity with legs. No matter how I look at them, the sinks with legs that are 18" deep and under just do not have the counter room or "presence" that I need. That brings me to Console sinks that do come in 48" widths. Some of them will work with my walker, but I am not sure they will with a wheelchair. I even visited a showroom yesterday on my way home from an appointment. The salesman agreed that I should not ever lean on a wall-hung cabinet, and said he had not seen anything like what I need. I was going to recommend a cabinet maker, but I told him that my builder could to the job. I do really prefer to have my Parys counter top, since I already have it installed as a windowsill. I think that my best solution to maximize floor space, get some drawers, and have a counter in front of both of my mirrors is to have Jim build it. Here is my attempt to draw it with my poor perspective skills. I suggested the Parys top and Wilsonart laminate for the legs and drawer fronts. Jim was worried about the laminate chipping off, so I looked only at the Heavy-Use Wilsonart. I found a metalic silver-gray that seems like a good fit with the Parys. This is how a 64" wide vanity would fit in front of my two med cabs and lights. This one is 35" high. The ADA says 34", but I sit high and I think I can get away with the extra inch. This mock-up is without the sink being taken into consideration. I imagine there will actually be a 10" drawer to the left, then the sink, and then a drawer to the right of the sink. The sink will be centered at the 21" point, going from left to right, so that it is centered under the left mirror. Then I will have a stool to use to sit under the right mirror. If I use the asymmetric sink that I found above, the counter would be 16" if I want it open to the front of the sink. I believe I have identified a Cambria fabricator where I could go to discuss the issue of how much lip of Parys I would have to leave in front of the sink. And ask if I can leave the back of the counter open, taking the sink's opening to the wall. They have to be able to transport the counter top safely. I might be able to fit the sink in an 18" counter if they let me leave the back open. That is the deepest counter I will consider. If I use any of the sinks that protrude out, then I will have the counter made 12 to 14" deep. I guess my next step is to go talk to the stone guys....See Morebill_vincent
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