That closeup helps me see what you have now. Frankly, I think it would look better if the roof wrapped across in front of the dormer and you only had a half-sized window there. The way it is now looks funny to me. I'm not sure I've ever seen a dormer quite like that before. I don't know where you're getting your windows from but, if you talk with them, I suspect you'll find that you can get an awning window that is exactly the size of the upper half of your double-hungs and they CAN also put vertical "lites" in it that match those in the top half of your other windows. Most windows these days have "simulated divided lites" anyway and you can have them put in where-ever you want them. Nobody does real divided lites anymore. Too much opportunity for air and water leakage. A casement with vertical simulated-divided-lites might be considered a "custom" window instead of a standard size - but hopefully ONE custom window won't break the bank. And if it'll make DS happy.... I don't think a half-sized window would look odd at all in that spot. It looks like you're also not putting a pediment over that one window or shutters around it. So it is going to be different from the others anyway. It'll look great as long as it blends stylistically with them. I think making it the same size as the upper HALF of your double-hungs and having the same "lites" will make it blend in quite nicely. Just be sure you specify that you want the casement window to have the same dimensions as the upper sash of your double-hungs and have the same lite pattern.

OMG!!! I just clicked on your pics - that floor-to-ceiling tile and archway are TO DIE FOR!!! I would KILL for that kitchen! BTW, replacing windows in tiled walls like yours is very difficult. Are you getting "Replacement" windows (uses existing framing) or new windows? With new windows you will probably have to (try) to carefully remove the tile around the frame. Also, I assume your walls are plaster - the frames are literally plastered in and ripping out the old window frames will destroy the walls. Personally, I'd measure the inside of the existing frames and order a new window a bit smaller, just enough to use the old framing and level it out. The first new window we installed destroyed the plaster around it - the entire wall above and below just started to crumble, so I scored the plaster around all the other frames. In the bathroom we lost a couple of the tiles just below the sill, so we just installed a wider undersill to fill the space. Honestly, based on your kitchen layout there is no reason to try to match the two kitchen windows - especially if they look good from outside. The archway creates a dramatic separation and the different heights look deliberate. Was that a butler's pantry? Or was there a stove in there? My grandmother's butler's pantry had tall cabinets with a window that started higher than the main kitchen window.

I just wanted to thank everyone on this forum for the WONDERFUL information. It took 2 web searches and the pics on this blog to find out what someone did to the ceiling in the house I'm buying. First things first, that ceiling has got to go. I have a week before I have to be out of my apartment and that will be plenty of time to de-stomp and prime (at the very least). Last month a friend of mine bought a house with nearly the same square footage as mine and every ceiling was popcorned (even the closets) and after sending her a DIY link we tested it in her front entry way and half bath. When it took 30 minutes to do that she was convinced. 4 of us finished her whole house in a bit under 5 hours. She hired professionals to re-putty and sand it. It actually took longer to prime it than anything (we had to wipe off the dust first) - it gets everywhere! After that project and then readying this blog, I know I can do this. Well, as long as it's not plaster that they "decorator" used. :) I'll test it first. I just wanted to thank you all for your input since you have eased my mind so far. If anyone is still watching this blog, I plan to update my progress. Before and After pics and a brief timeline. I do have one question...it's been a few years since some of these original posts have been submitted and I'm a new homeowner and semi-new prime painter. Does anyone know if that Zinsser Primer comes in a pink that changes to white when dry? We learned that priming and painting with white at night using artificial lighting is not good. Similar to what Sandy learned. :( Hope everyone's other home-projects are going well.

Hi folks....thanks for the kind thoughts about the view. It is one of the things that ultimately sold us on the house (despite its dated, worn out feeling). plllog - yeah, my sketching ability is HORRIBLE, HORRIBLE, HORRIBLE. So, at any rate we met with the KD again tonight and settled on a door style/stain which is a huge accomplishment, but maybe that's another thread....but the short of it is, the Liberty doorstlye from Ultracraft in a Natural Cherry stain. We'll save money by dumping the glazing on either a wood door, or a painted white finish we had been planning on. Ultracraft changed how they're doing the glazing and its much heavier than a few years ago. The white doors are a much less "matte" finish and had a sheen that we didn't like. We also elimiated dentil molding we didn't like and a lot of fluted trims that while they were nice cost $$$$ and are not really our taste. One of the things the KD immediately pointed out about this is that its big island and cleaning the center would be a chore. He's right, and I joked that I'd have to hang from the ceiling a la Tom Cruise in the first Mission: Impossible move. So, we discussed some changes and it looks like we're going to wind up with an island that's sort of shaped like a grand piano where the "keys" would be is the prep area and the island is shaped like the body of the piano. We'll still have some shallow depth cabinets underneath for all the occassional use items we have. We also changed the layout of the "arm of the island. The beverage fridge will now go on the north (top) wall where the 33" base cabinet is (by the door to the yard) with the remaining cabinet a narrow 9" door for bag storage (the reusable grocert type, etc). The MW drawer will go where the beverage fridge was and we'll replace the MW base and 15" cabinet with a 36" wide drawer base for plates and utensils. The remaining 24" space will be left open as a push in spot for a stool where my wife can sit at meals while the kids and I sit on the curve of the piano. This arrangement also puts a stool nearer the prep area for a helper or guest. So, it feels good to get something accomplished including starting to determine where everything will have a home in the new space. I should have the new drawings next week and will post...here is a reminder of the layout (sans changes from today) and a grand piano from above to imagine the island shape.