So confused on shower systems
cottonpenny
12 years ago
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MongoCT
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Cabinet panel tub/shower combo - so confused?!?
Comments (3)Yes, this is very doable to have a tub deck out of stone with the sides wooden paneling. I'll give a little more info to ineffablespace's post. 1. Install an undermounted tub with a stone tub deck - just as you would an undermounted sink. The shower enclosure will sit on top of the stone deck. When you finish showering, squeegee the glass plus the stone deck. The stone deck will not be slanted to where the water will drain into the tub so you will just need to squeegee it. If it was me, I would also run a towel around the glass and stone caulk seam to prevent mildew. I would recommend that your contractor install a tile flange on the edge of the stone deck that meets the wall. The tile flange comes in two types, one in a continuous roll and the other long strips. Think of it like weather stripping. The tile flange is attached with adhesive to the stone along with a bead of silicone caulk. The cement board for the wall will be installed up to the edge of the tile flange. Nowdays, folks like to use a product called Kerdifix to fill the gap between the edge of the tile flange and the cbu. A moisture barrier such as Kerdi or Hydro Ban/Red Guard/Aqua Defense is put on top of the cbu. Then the tile is installed to where it overhangs that gap. The remaining gap between the edge of the tile and the stone is then filled with silicone caulk. You will need to maintain this bead of silicone caulk. You will need to order a tub that can be specifically undermounted. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the stone cut out and the tub installation. If there is silicone caulk between the lip of the stone cut out and the tub, then make sure you maintain that caulk bead also - just like a lav or kitichen sink. 2. Install a drop in tub where the lip of the tub will sit on top of the stone deck like the picture you posted. The glass enclosure will sit on top of the tub edge. You will then install a tile flange on the 2 sides that will be incorporated into the tile wall. Or you can have the tub manufacturer install a tile flange at the factory. The best way to go is to order a tub that has the tile flange made with the tub, called an integral tile flange. Companies like MTI and Hydro Systems can customize a tub with one to three sides with an integral tile flange. Don't skip installing a tile flange if you will be taking showers. The tile flange can be skipped if the tub is just for soaking, but definitely not for regular showering. It is a very pretty look. Just make sure it is done correctly so you don't end up with water damage. Ensure that your contractor follows these specifics because many contractors are not familiar or comfortable with these kinds of details, practices, and products. Take many pictures at all phases of construction. This post was edited by Anna_in_TX on Thu, Mar 20, 14 at 0:44...See MoreTub surround Waterproofing, I'm so confused
Comments (2)The Aqua-Tough board is a tile-on board that supposedly has a waterproof facing. So the board face itself will be your water barrier. I'm not terribly familiar as I've never used it. With the AquaTough being your membrane, the poly behind the board being in lousy shape actually works to your favor, as you only want one barrier in the wall system. You'll probably need to detail/seal the panel seams and screw heads. You could build the niche, detail the seams, then use a topical membrane like RedGard or Hydroban to waterproof the seams. Covering the AquaTough with Kerdi would be a waste. It's a membrane over a membrane. Same with completely covering the AquaTough with a trowel-on membrane like RedGard or Hydroban. You could use RedGard of Hydroban to spot treat the AquaTough; at the screwheads, the panel seams, the niche seams. But again, I'll defer to whatever the Aquatough installation literature says in terms of how the seams need to be treated. RedGard is the least expensive of the three that you listed, and it's made by Custom. Home Depot carries Custom, so if they don't stock it they should be able to order it for you, or you could maybe order it online for an in-store pickup. I'm not sure how Home Depot works in that regard. If I confused more than clarified, my apologies....See MoreWindow confusion and security system.
Comments (7)MFatt--"nothing is a dumb question" thanks! I will remember that the next time I am about to hit submit on my next dumb question ;-) Ellen--we don't even have our construction drawings finished yet. I just want to get windows this time that we can hard wire since the majority of our sq ft is on the first floor. Thanks. Ppriorah--are your Andersens single hung or double hung? And if they are double hung where is the contact located? Thanks?!!...See MoreWhich furnace/AC system to buy-thoroughly confused??
Comments (2)Can you tell a bit more? Where are they going to put the furnace? Does your house have a crawlspace or basement where it will be, or will it be somewhere else? Is the quoted system ONLY for the new addition, or for the whole house including the new space Is there a reason you are not looking at heatpumps. Here in Kansas City you will get a reduced electric rate in the winter if you have one. Is there a reason you aren't looking at higher efficiency? How long do you plan to be in the house? Can you use the tax credit? Have you asked your dealer or utility company if there are any additional programs for particular installs? Our utility company has reabates that go to the dealer to help defray your costs--one level for 14 SEER and another for 16 SEER. My general thought is that you may want to look at a 14.5 SEER heatpump, and use a 95% furnace, In case you don't know what it is...a condensate safety switch acts kind of like a float in a sump pump. The float switches off the system if the condensate isn't draining so that the pan won't overflow....See Morecottonpenny
12 years agoMongoCT
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10 years agoanna_in_tx
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