I'd suggest posting in appliances for more input. There are a few experts who hang out there and not here. And I'd suggest taking a serious look at an induction range. I made the switch from gas a couple of years ago after researching on the appliances forum and would not willingly go back. Induction has all the power, faster adjustments and is easier to clean. And importantly in your situation the range itself isn't putting anything into the air to be vented. Most induction ranges have different electrical requirements from a standard electric radiant range so you would need to check whether you can swing that in your building.

Hey folks. We've been using the 36" Zephyr Monsoon DCBL one-piece-liner with the following specs for a few months. We really hesitated to spend this much since our reno is essentially a budget/DIY one, but we are pleased with our purchase. Min.-Max. CFM 250 - 715 Min.-Max. Sones 0.8 - 5.8 Our installation is not ideal as our hood is mounted quite high due for head injury prevention reasons. That contributes to higher noise level and less efficient function. Overall, we are pretty happy with this hood. The hood can't keep up with extreme searing, but we are no longer routinely setting off the smoke alarm :) . It does move a tremendous amount of air at higher settings - at the outdoor vent you can see nearby leaves whipping around. I am satisfied with the noise levels, which was my major concern. At setting 1 (250 CFM) I hear a low hum, which does not annoy me if I am trying to chat or listen to music. That setting is fine for regular cooking and I am getting used to having the fan all the time when using the range. Setting 2 is louder, but still possible to chat or listen to music...and definitely pulls more air. Setting 3 is getting noisy, but I use it for shorter periods when frying bacon, etc. Setting 4 or 5 might suck up one of my children - powerful and loud. I like using Setting 1 when I notice lingering cooking smells after cooking in our large open concept space. The LED lights are pretty good. I like having a high and low setting. I like that all controls are on the underside rather than the front. Also, there are no LED lights when the unit is off (unless the baffles are due for cleaning) - also a plus. I like the feature that shows when the baffles are due to cleaning because I probably would not do this often enough. Previously we used two different builder grade hoods, and there is simply no comparison with the efficiency of suction and the noise levels, so this is a huge upgrade. I was thrilled to get free shipping of the hood to Canada from wayfair.ca. We never get free shipping in Canada!! Unfortunately the unit arrived quite damaged from the shipping process. The box was sturdy but the internal packing was inadequate. We decided to fix it rather than deal with the hassle of getting a remedy.

By interior air path, I meant that there would be a way for a cat or a butterfly to get from the vicinity of the air intake of the combustion appliance to the kitchen. If a combustion appliance has an air inlet path from outside, and a reasonably sealed exhaust path to the outside, and lives in an area that is more or less sealed off from the kitchen, I would call that isolated. Isolated combustion appliances would not be expected to backdraft due to the kitchen ventilation. All other such devices can backdraft when subjected to lowered house interior pressures, which is what happens when a big blower is used to pull air from the kitchen without sufficient MUA. As hinted at above, keeping the pressure drop low in the MUA path can be challenging, as large flow rates across even large filters can have a significant pressure drop.* So, unless the MUA has its own blower, filtering has to be minimal -- somewhere between sparrow restriction and mosquito restriction. Blower MUA systems have their own complexity (potentially a lot of it), as unlike many commercial operations where ventilation rates are held constant and the MUA can be tuned to a fixed rate, the hood blower likely has several speeds, there may be bathroom exhaust fans that can be on or off, and fireplaces can move a lot of air, but tolerate only a slight pressure drop to maintain sufficient draft. This is why I suggest where feasible that combustion appliances have some combination of their own MUA and some isolation from the kitchen (via a basement door that stays closed, say, or better, a closed room within the basement). My oil furnace has its own intake duct to the outside using a kit manufactured for this purpose. I'm not familiar with modern gas dryers or hot water heaters to be able to comment on equipment of this sort that might be available for them. In other words, minimizing the need to keep the house pressure difference to the outside within 0.03 inches may be a lot easier than incorporating a sufficiently sophisticated MUA system. There are some simple ways of controlling MUA that may appeal in some cases, and I'll try to get to that subject in the near future. kas

Please search out and read hood threads here to provide a basis for understanding the requirements needed before choosing a hood to meet the requirements. Also search out 'MUA' threads.