The smallest room size you could really see yourself living with?
moongardengirl
14 years ago
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Comments (18)
shelly_k
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Come See Baby Chicks Hatching In Our Living Room!
Comments (19)^^^ Hahaha...I once had to buy eggs at the market while my girls were molting, I brought them home and made a point to show the eggs to the girls to remind them what they looked like. Laying started up again shortly thereafter. :) Well...we checked both incubators and candled the eggs we could see into last night. A lot of them were clear, especially the Polish eggs. :( But I don't see my Polish ladies getting much action from my roos, the dumb boys! Other eggs have chicks, but I could not tell if they were alive or not, and how fully formed they are. No peeping or activity yet from any of the eggs, but they aren't due to hatch until beginning at 8PM Saturday night. If none of these hatch, I don't know what to think...I know that both of my roo boys are getting their job done and I don't think they have fertility issues, they are healthy fellas. We did change locations for the incubators this year, to my dining room table, in a corner of a room away from windows and doors to help protect from drafts. I THOUGHT I had a great spot, but if this batch doesn't work I'm going back to putting the darned things in the kitchen. :( On top of everything else, we are having weird weather here since yesterday, supposed to continue until Tuesday--wind, rain/hail, and tornadoes, of all things! If the power goes out, I have my broody hen contingency plan...Bear, Splash and Blue are all broody and would get to sit on the eggs. :) We checked the cam last night and have it all set up and ready to go, if hatching begins we'll fire it up and I'll notify everyone. Time will tell! Velvet !:>...See Moresmallest size for testing compost?
Comments (20)flora_uk: I agree with part of what you said..."For me the idea of buying in or driving to collect material for composting and fretting over ratios always has a worrying tinge of losing the point." Composting can be for more than one reason. Composting to reduce the load on our local landfills and to keep nutrients on our property is one thing. Composting to improve the overall quality of our garden soil is another. Buying alfalfa pellets to achieve the right C/N ratio is counterproductive if all I am trying to do is reduce my curbside waste. However, I am interested in creating a significant quantity of compost to improve the condition of my sandy Florida soil, so I may get better results from my garden. Leaf mold would work, but as this is my first year collecting leaves, I am impatient and do not want to wait 1-3 years for the results. So I have gathered more leaves than I think I need this year. Some of them are getting the extra nitrogen from alfalfa pellets (and some with 26-2-1), so I can get the end result this year. The rest will be left as-is and will be ready for use as leaf mold in the future. In the following years I will be able to have leaf mold, as well as mixing stored fall leaves and summer greens for compost. And I have to say this, my F-150 gets horrible gas milage, but it gets better milage than the big truck that drives around our neighborhood each Friday. I have brought home enough leaves to fill half of one of those trucks. I'll bet I have burned less gas and done less damage to our roads that that truck would have. So collecting a neighbors leaves, in my opinion, is a net gain for society. Convincing my neighbors to not put it out there in the first place would be better, but what I do is a close second. Everyone: I guess I understand it enough. 30:1, damp like a sponge, turned regular for oxygen, and it all works out quick and efficient. O, C, N and water are all present in proper ratios. Do this with a 3x3x3 pile and the optimal temperature part works out also. So is the problem with a 20:1, ratio too much heat? And too little heat with a 50:1 ratio? It would then seem that temperature control would allow for variations on the C/N ratio. Right? If the microbes are made up of N and water, and consume O and C to live, with heat and compost as a byproduct, then more N and water means more C and O is consumed, resulting in even more heat. With the wrong C/N ratio, there is either too much or too little mass (the C) to dissipate the heat, resulting in a non-optimum temperature range. At 30:1, as the carbon is processed the mass stays the same, so as long as O keeps coming, the temp and microbe activity stays steady. Once all of the carbon is processed, they die due to lack of food. At 20:1 (assuming O and water are non-limiting factors) there are too many microbes thriving, there is not enough space for the heat to spread to, so the microbes cook themselves. At 50:1, the microbes living do not heat up the pile enough to create the perfect temperature for the right microbes to thrive. Does this explanation sound reasonable? kimmsr: According to Britannica, via google, "Vegetable: In the broadest sense, all plant life and plant products (vegetable matter); in common, narrow usage, the fresh edible portion of herbaceous plants (roots, stems, leaves, flowers, or fruit), either eaten fresh or prepared in some way." Columbia University Press (also via google) says: "vegetable: term originally used for any plant, now the name for many food plants, most of them annuals, and for their edible parts." I think you are correct in your assertion that vegetable and vegetative are interchangeable in many cases. You were talking over me when you used vegetative and vegetable interchangeably. Well, you were, now I know. I always appreciate learning something new. However, in the context of discussing C/N ratios, greens and browns, I think it is confusing. I think vegetative= browns vegetable= greens is the most effective in communicating with the largest number of people. According to the above definitions, current, common usage agrees with this. Thanks....See MoreOpen Plan Living Room. Comments & Ideas are REALLY appreciated.
Comments (6)I like the open living /dining room concept, and the ceiling emphasizes the difference in the two rooms. The windows prevent the rooms from feeling small. I don't mind the "wasted space" between the living /dining /kitchen because with the three major living areas coming together, it's going to be used heavily. Your picture shows this house on the water. This definitely has a beach house or lake house vibe -- it's all those huge windows! Do note that your window treatments will cost a fortune. What I don't like: - I agree that the entrance (walk in, look straight into a bathroom) isn't very inviting. Ideally the entrance would have you looking straight into the living room at that focal window wall. - Where would you place a TV in the living room? And I'd want a fireplace; that could go in the center of the window focal wall. Still, the living room is small. - Little storage in the kitchen and no space for a pantry. If you enlarge the utility room a little, you could have a whole wall of pantry storage. - I love a U-shaped kitchen, but I see that this floor plan is cleverly hiding a U's biggest negative: Where's the dishwasher? This plan places the sink in the typical, most useful place -- the middle of the U -- and obviously you want your dishwasher to be beside it . . . but you don't have space . . . and if you cram it in, it'll be a dreaded corner dishwasher, which means that when you open the dishwasher, the door blocks your entrance to the cabinets . . . so you can't put away dishes. If you put the dishwasher onto one of the "legs" of the U, you'll be dripping dirty dishes across the floor as you reach things towards the dishwasher. You can move the sink /dishwasher to the penninsula leg, but that's not ideal either. - Neither bathroom has enough sink space /no storage; this could be fixed in the secondary bath, but the master bath needs more square footage. - All the bedrooms are small. I don't see dimensions, but I think you'd be pushing maximum density in the master even with a queen-sized bed, and the two secondary bedrooms probably couldn't comfortably handle anything more than the twin beds that're shown. However, it'd be easy to add just a few feet in both directions to fix this -- just an extra 2' or so would make these rooms much more liveable....See MoreWhat size is your smallest drawer?
Comments (16)"...drawer on each side that is only 6 " wide inside..." Does that mean a 6" wide cabinet or a 9" (or so) cabinet that has a 6" wide drawer inside? Is that 6" the inside drawer width or the entire drawer width (including the drawer sides)? If you have 6" (or 9") on either side of your cooktop cabinet, I would consider one of two things: (1) Getting a 6" (or 9") filler pullout for each side (more on that later) (2a) 9" cabinet: Get a 9" wide tray cabinet. (2b) 6" cabinet: Leave the gap and get a door to cover it to use it as a plain cabinet w/no face frame. You could store a couple of cutting boards or some trays in that space. Maybe put a shelf in the top portion for small items. You would have to "build" a floor for the cabinet, though. With cabinets, you lose anywhere from 1" to 1.5" due to walls for frameless cabinets and 3" to 4" due to the walls & face frames in framed cabinets. If you now add drawers, you then lose the thickness of the drawer boxes' sides (2 sides) as well as the "clearance" space needed for the drawers to clear the walls or face frames. For a 6" cabinet, that's a significant percentage of the space. Even with a 9" cabinet it's quite a bit. Filler pullouts, OTOH, are pullouts that attach to the cabinets on each side of the space (i.e., the side of the cooktop cabinet on one side and another cabinet on the other side). They have no cabinet walls or face-frames of their own. This maximizes the amount of usable space. Filler pullouts come in a variety of configurations. They can be spice pullouts (be sure the shelves are adjustable if you go this route), they can be pegboards for hanging pot&pan covers/utensils/etc., or they can be magnetic boards. Base cabinet filler pullouts have the most options...ranging in width from 3" to 9". Upper cabinet filler pullouts only come in 3" & 6" widths. I've linked to Rev-A-Shelf's base cabinet filler pullouts below so you can check out your options. BTW...don't buy them from RAS directly...the last time I looked, they were far cheaper elsewhere! I have double ovens, a MW w/"Keep Warm", and a 30" WD...and I use all of them frequently. Here's what I've discovered: The MW drawer's "Keep Warm" option continues to cook the food, even with the low power level it uses. I only use it for very moist items that I don't mind if they're overcooked...which means not much! The ovens tend to dry things out when using the "Warm" option. In addition, you have to heat the entire oven cavity to use it as a warmer. We use our WD most days of the week (I'd say 5 or 6 days a week). You do have to remember to turn it on when you start cooking, but even when I forget, my WD seems to heat up fairly quickly. (I have a GE Profile WD...just a basic WD, no fancy bells & whistles. For moist/crisp, you open/close a little opening.) The other thing is that if you use your MW or oven as a WD, you then cannot use them for their major purpose...as a MW or oven. Here is a link that might be useful: Rev-A-Shelf Base Cabinet Filler Pullouts...See Moremoongardengirl
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