Look in your phone book for a sheet metal shop.
Someplace that fabricates in stainless steel should be able to do this cheaply and without screwing it up.

Here's a link to a WoodWeb discussion on this problem.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wood Butchers On Cutting Stainless

It looks like we are going to face the same issue. In fact I've decided to hold off on installing ours until the counters and cooktop is in. Maybe with everything installed it will be okay lower. I doubt it but it's possible.

I talked to a contractor and to our appliance guy and both recommended simply cutting a hole in the ceiling to match the outline of the chimney rather than cutting it short.

Have you considered that idea and ruled it out? And why if so?

Please update this thread or email me with your solutions and progress.

You can email me by taking my GardenWeb user name and adding it to @ yahoo dot com.

Thanks.

Chris:

The 'cutting the ceiling' idea was considered, but because the hood is already in place, and the flue cover can't be used as a guide, it's difficult to properly template where you want to cut. All things being equal, I'd also say that it should look better if we leave the ceiling un-cut.

Thanks for the response. I figured I would make a template of the flue and trace it onto our ceiling. I already have the centerline marked so I'd only have to center the template on that mark.

With your flue, will the outside sleeve slide up and over the cut sleeve?

If I remember correctly ours is the opposite of that so I figured cutting the ceiling would look better than have a possibly jagged metal edge butted up against the ceiling. Easier to patch drywall than it is metal, I figure.

But we had a major delay with our remodel and a baby which then caused a loss of motivation so I need to go back through everything step by step. I may be remembering incorrectly.

Well, I am in the same situ here. I have held-off on this last item since last Nov. I have experience in the area but it hasn't been for my house and I agree with some about looks after the machining. First, any kind of heat will discolor the metal. So, that could rule-out abrasive wheel cutting (AKA cut-off wheel). But, it is not out of the question. Next, the shape is not going to allow you to band-saw this unless you back it up with a wood form- not likely for most here.

My advice to those who are picky about looks (that's me), the way to go is water-jet.

Well, I'm about to go for it. I'm taking it to a place that does nothing but sheet metal work. I've now had 3 different people in a row suggest zip-discs (abrasive wheel) as long as the wheel is thin, and you don't rush the job. With care, the discolouration should be no more than 1/8" and can be cautiously dressed with a scotch pad as needed. Cost approximately $35.

I'll report back on how it works out.

Chris: I don't need the extension at all and in my case, it slides up the inside. BTW, good point about making a template to mark the ceiling - apparently my brain has ceased to operate fully, or I would have thought of that.

-dave

I ordered a long cover for our VAH b/c it was in stock and wasn't going to take as much time as a custom-length one. I did what chris_harper2 mentions- the duct and cover stick up in the attic about 9". I forget how I marked it before cutting the ceiling. I'd think it'd be pretty easy to make a template out of cardboard or plywood that'd be rigid enough for your purposes. Besides, a little caulk covers slight misses.

Our flue cover, IIRC, has corner reinforcement tack welded at the ends. Cutting would've meant getting rid of the reinforcement and having a less-rigid cover.

Also, if you're only talking about 3/4", you could take the hood loose and drop it just enough to mark the ceiling.

To me, those options are simpler than finding someone to cut it and not mess it up. FWIW, plasma leaves clean edges, but I'm not sure whether it'd scorch.

If you do slide the cover above the attic, I'd make a cover to go over the opening. Then foam or otherwise seal it in place so you aren't venting your kitchen into the attic except through the duct. I made one out of plywood and cut it in two so that I could put it over the top of the duct cover (and around the duct) after the whole thing was installed.

Here is a link that might be useful:

I have exactly the same problem as the height of my ceiling where I want to install the hood is only 7 feet high due to the ventilation duct going to the 2nd floor being in the way. I asked a waterjet cutting company if it can be cut, but since the piece is not flat, they couldn't do it. The person recommended the following: a die grinder to cut down and then file or grind smooth and touch up the polished surface.

A little discoloration or unevenness in the cut won't show if a molding surrounds the duct at the ceiling penetration. Use wood molding or a stainless steel flange matching the duct.

Ok, my flue cover has now been cut and installed and I can report back that it looks great. The shop that did it understood fully what I was asking for and they managed to trim it and clean up the edge beautifully. No signs of scorching, discolouration or any change in the finish. You may recall that they used a zip disc (abrasive wheel). Cost was $40.

I'm pretty sure I'm happier with it butted up against the ceiling rather than going through it. I will say that if I had to do the latter, I think the stainless flange is good idea as a trim.