Hi scottspond, some how didn't think she would, Florida vs Manchester, no contest really ;-) The area I live in is New Mills, in High Peak in Derbyhsire. If it doesn't ring a bell, it's just past Lyme park, Buxton is about 2 miles away, Stockport 9 miles and Manchester 20 miles (all via road) Handily the railway station is about 5 mins away from my home, so trips to Manchester are pleasent through the countyside and don't require I use the car ;-) And in summer I get to hop on the odd steam trian, every boys dream. My Mancunian mates reckon I've gone "all posh" living here, as I was born and grew up in Fallowfield and went to school in Rusholme. Regards ChrisC.

So I got a better bid today from a different dealer for the 126B 3 1/2 ton A/C. And the reason it was better is they measured the coil case and figured out they could put the new coil in the existing coil case (with a Bryant cover, not a Carrier cover) and save 3 1/2 hours of labor vs. removing the newly installed furnace. Does anyone see any problems with that? I kind of liked it as the furnace is working fine and I don't want it messed up. Also, the original dealer thinks we should get the 4 ton 126B since our old 3 1/2 ton A/C had trouble keeping up on hot days. Here is the AHRI #6364408. It is a generic listing, not for our furnace like the 3 1/2 ton is. Does that matter? They say they are confident it will work with my furnace, but does that impact the SEER, etc? I still have not heard anything re the new model that may be on the way, but the Bryant rep is at a training conference in Oregon so isn't as easy to get a hold of right now. I would appreciate any thoughts you guys have on these two proposals. Thanks, Cindy

I don't see why you couldn't pump condensate all the way to the laundry sink. Our 87% boiler is a condensing type. The boiler has a condensate drain coming out of the bottom of the flue. This drain is routed to a condensate pump which hoists the water up and over my water heater, then gradually down to the washing machine drain. The boiler has been producing hot water of around 120°F lately (around 32°F outdoors). This low temperature means a lot of condensate from the flue, so the pump has been busy. I never hear the pump run, though. As far as vent noises go, I would DEFINITELY have the air intake plumbed to the outdoors if I could do my install all over again. The air intake makes a considerable "whoosh" noise while it's running. (Of course, drawing air into the house.) The blower fan does have a slight vibration that I can hear in my kitchen, which is just on the opposite side of the wall from the boiler. In the case of a boiler, I can connect an indirect-fired domestic water heater that the boiler services. This means one unit does two jobs by effectively making an additional zone. I don't know if this can be done economically with forced air heat. I can't hear any noise from my boiler when I'm outside. Then again, I don't have it vented through the wall.

I looked up the manual and Hybrid is the correct setting for it to use both the heat pump and the electric elements. I'd set the temp to 130. It has a first hour rating of 65 gallons - and if you aren't getting anything close to that, you have a problem with the water heater. Since it's not showing any errors - check to confirm that the "cold" is is plumbed to the cold water inlet. A broken dip tube could cause the same issue. Since it's always been "not quite right" I'd take a hard look at these two things. Then I would check the bottom element. Again - on hybrid... at the worst it should perform as a 50 gal electric water heater.