I still have a 90 Maxima with approx. 250K miles (odometer intermittant) and it still runs great. Only normal wear and tear items have had to be replaced. Plenty of power still (it's fun to "race" some of the newer sports cars and beat or at least keep up with them and watch their faces - I just laugh at them and pi** them off). Paint and trim and interior still look really good. Everything works. Gas could be going up to $4 in near future, so keep that in mind. I still get about 29 mph on hwy (checked when odometer is working) - not sure about city. Also not sure about 2000/2001 year for either model. Overall, I think they've both done well for all years. My timing belt change interval is 60K miles. Can't remember it it has the "interference" type engine that can be damaged if timing belt breaks (there's a web site of a timing belt manufacturer that lists this for all car - Gates Rubber, maybe?). I usually do the water pump at same time since they have it opened up - about $400 here to have independent mechanic do both). Good luck on your purchase, whatever you buy. I'm hoping to get another year or two from mine, before buying another good reliable used vehicle.

You don't have to run away from here. You have a pretty good understanding of cars at this point and that's important. I have to deal with situations all of the time, where the only thing some people are thinking about is saving themselves money, and they totally forget what "fair" really means. Fair is always something that works for BOTH parties. I can't tell you why "BrakeMax" didn't see a gaping hole in an "air intake hose". I suppose you are either describing the plenum hose between the air cleaner and MAF sensor, and the throttle body, or some other vacuum hose, or a hose that directs air for the IAC. I can envision quite a number of different systems, and I don't have specifics on exactly what vehicle you own. So I'll stick with the plenum hose, since an air leak between the MAF and the engine will severely affect performance. A DPFE will give you a check engine light, but have little or no effect on performance. I won't rule out the possiblity that the plenum hose simply finally completely failed after the DPFE was looked at. They do have to flex constantly, and are a common failure item. There are several master mechanics on this forum. I looked at that web site. It looks pretty good. But still taking a code, and then asking advice about what could be wrong, is still leaving the wrong impression. Follow this. 2002 Pontiac Grand Am with a 3.1l Auto. It's setting a code P0101, that is a Mass Air Flow Sensor performance code. This car is owned by a family friend, who happens to work at an Auto Zone! They pulled the code and wanted to replace his MAF. Jason chose wisely and brought the car to me to test first. By monitoring scan data and taking snapshots for playback I was able to measure the reported volumetric efficiency (VE) of the engine. VE is the measurement of the actual amount of air the engine can pump. For example, a 3.1l engine at 5000rpm should easily pump 160grams or air per second at wide open throttle. Jason's MAF sensor was reporting 90 to 105 grams per second, and struggled to get over 4500 rpm. VE measured 55%. Well that's why it had a P0101, the computer knows how much air the engine should be pumping, based on throttle opening and rpm. At this point, there are still several possible causes for the code. A bad MAF is clearly one of them. Funny you should mention it, but a torn plenum hose would do the same. Some type of an engine mechanical issue could do this, heck even a very bad air filter could actually have given the same findings. But there is one more, how about a restricted exhaust? The test for this is to remove the front O2 sensor, and install a gage and actually measure the back pressure. The spec allows for a maximum of 1.25PSI, and that's under a load. Simply speeding the engine up in neutral had this one building 14 PSI. The fix was to replace the catalytic convertor, which was still under the 8yr/80,000 mile warranty at the dealer. No one, reading a forum would effectively lead the poster to that diagnosis. There were more details uncovered during the testing that helped make the decision to measure the back pressure. One of them was by watching the long term and short term fuel trims on the scan tool while driving the car. If the engine was actually getting more air than was being reported, then they would have been shifted way positive, because the engine would have been too lean. But because the MAF was actually reporting how much air was truly entering the engine, they were reasonably close to neutral. I can remember when I first started working on cars, I was 14 when I tore down my first Chevrolet 350 to put a cam in it, and had a valve job done on it. My grandfather had given my dad the car because it was running so bad. BTW, that wasn't my first engine job, I did a head gasket in a lawn tractor a few years before that. The thing here is there are people who are born with the ability to do this work. I suspect you are one of them, just like I am. It's not easy work, and most of the time the pay actually stinks, especially when you keep dumping huge pieces of your paycheck to buy more and more tools. But if someone really likes fixing cars, there is a freedom there that few other fields can offer. Now do you know why it's hard to find a good motorcycle mechanic? Probably because it's too hard for them to make enough money to stay in the field long enough to get really good at it. Running a repair shop, cars or motorcycles is expensive. The overhead eats some 60% of the gross profit, and then the wages and benefits start coming out before the owner finally gets his/her piece of the pie. Your couple of quotes about how much something was going to cost you if a shop had done the work, fails to show exactly how much profit the shop would have actually made if they had done it. In short, less than $125/hr of profit would have me working for free. That's how much it costs to run a shop like mine. That means, I would have to diagnose, and repair your air hose problem in about 35 minutes based on the numbers you provided, and be hard into the next job, or else I would not actually make any money at all. I invest heavily in O.E scan tools and software. That's one of the reasons it's so expensive for my shop to operate. The facts are, if I could double my parts mark-ups, and double my labor tomorrow, (and still stay busy) and then throw all of that money into more software and O.E scan tools and I'd actually still be losing ground. In 1993 I had one scan tool, a Snap-On MT2500. I could work on anything that showed up at the door. Today that same capability would cost more than 1/4 million, and the updates, and software licensing for the tools would continue to eat tens of thousands of dollars each year to continue to support them. You are correct, you don't have to be overly mechanically inclined to do some repairs. You do have to be very gifted for many others. Plus anymore you just about need a business degree to balance the pennies so that you have a chance to be there for the customer in the first place. The others that post here have seen some of my diatribes like this one. If you want to learn about cars stick around, just give us some room to earn a living. We should not have to apologize for trying to do that. ASE CMAT L1 30yrs exp.

I did things differently. From Day 1 of fluorescent lights, Sunlight begins to stream in at a low angle in late February and March in the room and falls where I start them together with the fluorescent light. I adjust the blinds if it gets too hot temperature wise in there, which is what I have to be careful about in March upstairs. I transplanted them in March directly into their final containers filled only 2/3 and they are placed in the most direct sunlight with the rolled up the second day and are always well-irrigated. The forecast had a week of rain so I put them outside then, either in my tunnel or under a tree on the driveway, they all go out and are left there. The ones in the hoop are put in their final spaces and under the tree stay there. The humidity is protective and over 90% at night and temperature great as long as they are out by the second week of March. We just as well could have had a freeze then because the extremes can vary here sandwiched between Georgia and Florida, but somebody's got to live here. One night got me at 41 F, but it wasn't as bad as I worried and they were fine. All other nights were over 50 F, mostly 55 F. Now in the second week of April our nightly lows will bottom out at 70 F in a few days, so things move fast. Too fast. By the end of June the party is over. Now is mid April and time to add the final 1/3 of the containers. The bottom sets of leaves have been removed and air healed, so no one will know if one or two had a little heat damage (which is actually due to the reflected heat and would happen to any leaf to some extent) and they've done their job and been removed, and in two days that part of the stem will be buried ;-) PC

Unfortunately, often it's children and elderly who are killed in back-up crashes. In a parking lot, it may feel easier and quicker to go nose-first into a space. However, the time it takes to back in is saved when safely leaving by pulling out. Trying to back out, into oncoming traffic or the path of pedestrians, the driver’s view is impaired by other parked cars which increases blind spots. Backing out is more difficult and risky than backing into a parking space. By backing in, a driver is going into a known space. When leaving, the parking space, the driver is able to see the surroundings more clearly.