Do you want to actually talk about why this happens? Quote" Also, observing the caliper and turning or replacing the rotors is all 99% of shops will do if you pay them for it. I'd bet a high percentage of those will screw it up again while putting the wheels back on. " There is a cost for trying to be too cheap, and sure I'll get all kinds of responses where everyone will want to point out how expensive they are sure a shop is, but the facts are that is exactly how pressure has been applied to shops and techs for decades, and has forced auto repair to be artificially under-priced. In short, everyone tries to go too fast and be cheaper than the other guy, and eventually something (quality) has to suffer. Quote" Last time I paid a shop (all ase certified mechanics) to do something for me was to replace the heater core in our '98 durango. Air out the vents has been reduced to zero on the right side, 25% in the center, and to 75% on the left side. In other words, they screwed something up. Was the problem evident right away, and did you go back? Having done several AC/heater repairs on these I can tell you that something doesn't add up and I would have to see this myself in order to get to understand the symptom as you have reported it. Another thing, ASE certification is a start, but to truly be able to work fully with today's cars requires tons of continuing education, and an ever growing expense in equipment. Which again is part of the problem where everyone tries to be too cheap. The shop might have one true master tech, that everyone else has to rely on when problems occur. However did you know there are more lawyers in the state of New Jersey, then there are ASE CMATs in the entire country? Today there are between 600 and 700 registered cars on the street for every CMAT. That number is going to get uglier as my generation retires in the next ten years because the 50+ group makes up more than 70% of the CMATs! Quote" IF we ever get our house sold, and a new one built, and my new shop built, the Durango is going on the rack to be gone through stem to stern by me." If your that capable, instead of building a house that I can't understand the need for, why don't you build a shop, hire AND train techs to work to your high standards and show the rest of us how it should be done. If your as good as you imply you should be able to make a fortune. (sarc*) BTW, prior to doing any brake repairs, one should pull the calipers and gently tighten two wheel nuts, and install a dial indicator and measure the run-out on both sides of the rotor. Mark the high spot on the rotor, and where that high spot is on the hub. Now when the rotor is moved to the lathe, ensure whether the high spot marked on the rotor while it was on the car is still the high spot now that its mounted on the lathe. If it is, your probably good to go, if its not then you need to find and correct for the run-out at the wheel hub assembly. Sometimes that can be as simple as re-indexing the rotor when you put it back on. Other cases require shims that go between the rotor and the hub, or machine the rotor on the car which automatically corrects for run-out. This is what HAS to be done to correct your HHR's issue. Unfortunately, flat rate techs aren't paid to take steps like this, because as you said, some 99% of the time all they do is simply slap on a new rotor, or machine it off the car and stick it back on the car and that is sufficient to solve the problem. But the one time that it isn't we get to see complaints just like yours, its only then that the car moves to the more experienced technician. If you see a tech that measures rotor run-out when assembling every car, you have one who will be slower than average, but have fewer comebacks which means, you should and will pay more than average for his/her work. You cannot call the shop and ask "how much is XXXXXX" first and find them.

Wekick and other Epicure range owners (or Epicure oven owners), I've been reading this forum for some time in preparation for an upcoming Boston area kitchen remodel. I will be installing a 30 inch range in addition to a few other niceties. Dacor recently announced the ER30D range with similar features to its existing larger Epicure range models. I would appreciate it, if you could give me some additional feedback on your range experiences. I have noticed posts that indicate a wide breadth of Dacor satisfaction / dissatisfaction. **Overall**: (1) Would you purchase the range again today based upon its cooking/baking capabilities and features? (2) Has Dacor provided satisfactory response to warranty, repair and upgrade issues? **Rangetop**: (3) Are you satisfied with the rangetop and, if not, why not? (4) Do you like the high heat and simmer on the crown burner (18000btu) and other burners (16000btu & 8500btu)? (5) Do the sealed burner flame sizes match well with your pan sizes or do you find the burner flame width to be to wide (high heat / low heat / pan size)? (6) Is cleanup of the rangetop reasonably easy or does everything show on the black porcelain top? **Oven**: (7) Are you satisfied with the rangeÂs oven and, if not, why not? (8) Has the dual-fuel range, with its electric European convection oven, met your expectations for greater baking capabilities over that of an all-gas convection range? (9) Do you like the RapidHeat (under glass) bake and broil elements? (10) Do you like the Pure Convection (convection fan, element and filter) system? (11) Do you find your oven temperature to be uniform (no hot spots) and stable? (12) About how long does it take for your oven to reach a 350 degrees preheat temperature, and does the oven seem to preheat on a timed basis or until cavity temperature is actually reached? (13) Does the display show actual oven temperature or merely the desired setting, and is the display temperature accurate? (14) Do you like the meat-probe? (15) Does the display show actual meat-probe temperature or merely the desired setting, and is the display temperature accurate? (16) Does the range chime when reaching the desired meat probe temperature? **Cooking**: (17) What are your subjective thoughts or objective measurements on stockpot water boiling times? (18) Does the crown burner and supplied wok ring make for a good, high temperature and responsive temperature recovery, wok cooking experience? (19) Most importantly, can you bake tons of great cookies at multiple rack levels on convection mode? Sorry for the extensive set of questions. Please feel free to answer only those that make sense. Thanks. Liame

Can you help me (and perhaps others) add some steps to the 'hood size guidelines' to think through hood size for the Capital Culinarian 36" rangetop, or one of the other 'monster' home rangetops (e.g., Bluestar, Viking, Wolf,...) The usual rule of thumb I've seen is: 100 CFM / 1,000 BTU rangetop Width same as rangetop, preferably 6" wider (e.g., (36", 42" better) Depth same as rangetop, preferably 3" deeper (e.g., 24", 27" better) The problem is that it is extremely unlikely we'll run the Capital at its full 138K BTU (or any of its monster brethren). Does the following make sense, or can those knowledgeable improve on it? At top actual use, we'll be using: 1 Burner wok = 23K BTU 1 Burner soup/ water boil = 23K BTU, but limited need for venting, call it 10K 4 Burners Realistic Max Average = 10K BTU (e.g., 1* 15K averages w/ 1 simmer) Total Effective = 73K BTU, and thus need 730 CFM Hood Suppose we do the 'best practice' of turning the hood on a couple minutes prior to any 'high-vent need cooking' such as wok cooking. If the range top is against a back wall, would we then be comfortable with the 730 CFM fan in a 36x24" hood? If the range top is in an island, would we then be comfortable with the 730 CFM fan in a 42x 27" hood, as long as we limit any activities that would cause strong drafts in the kitchen during wok cooking (e.g., opening the door from kitchen to patio.) In our case, we're looking at 6 burners, no grill or other top. We look forward to your help.

We are currently building a plan similar to what you described. It's called Hampton Circle by The House Designers. We made some modifications to the orginal plan: closed off the wall between the dining and kitchen to make an office, extended and squared off the outside breakfast wall to make a larger dining area, expanded the laundry room area and added a mudroom and full bath with a seperate laundry room where the storage area is on the original. We also tweaked the second level room sizes and added three storage rooms to use up all the empty space up there. We built ours over a walkout basement as well. I'm sorry I don't have our final plan to show you but here is the link to the original one: http://www.thehousedesigners.com/plan/hampton-circle-6364/