Did you try to grow Uganda grass yet? Some growers in Uganda multiply my pumpkin seed (C. maxima), and they could not do that, if they did not grow Pennisetum purpureum (also known as Elephant grass, Napier grass, Uganda grass...) around their patches, because this plants attract the borers and kill them after penetrating their stems. Elephant grass also shades C. maxima a little and so help to survive in the heat of arid summers. You can easily multiply Pennisetum purpureum with roots and rhizomes. But it is not frost resistant, and so you would have to store the rhizomes in your boiler room through the winter. But I like to grow C. moschatas too. And I have enlarged them with C. maxima AGs. Such interspecific crosses are not splashy for us, we also do intergeneric crosses with Cucumis melo of the inodorus group onto C. maxima. In 2014 we have successfully pollinated a C. moschata `Pennsylvania Dutch Crookneckô by a two times selfed 1385.5 Jutras 07 Atlantic Giant (AG). The result now is a C. moschata with a very short shaft instead the neck and a great elliptical balloon in front. The fine skin and color of PA Dutch Crookneck also are on this fruit: a very very fine C. moschata, but we have not opened it yet. And we have enlarged the C. moschata `La Estrellaô (an academically developed fruit from Florida) with the same AG: this fruit now lookes like a large green-brown olive with beige stripes. The elliptical shape we produce, because the stretto grown 1385.5 only makes elongated oval babies. Macmex, did you try C. moschata `Palav Kadooô yet? I show you a picture of mine. But I have some large C. moschata `Bambina Giganteô as well, which now grow near the Palav Kadoos until October.

Dnt1, thanks! Also, to clear up - the sound is more like a blast sound from a train not the swoosh sound of one going by if that makes sense. And, I've noticed it does it when I'm low on gasoline. Could you explain in layman's terms basically what the rear end carrier bearings are?

Just imagine a career where dealing with a problem like this is common. That's what you are actually paying for when you take your car to a pro to have it repaired. Your NOT just paying for a thermostat (Which while the most common part guessed is not likely to actually be the problem). Your not paying for a radiator, (Remotely possible, but unless the cooling system has been grossly neglected, not likely either). Your not just paying for a water pump and coolant. (There are reasons that this could be the right direction, but undiagnosed accurately should not have parts just thrown at it). My routine for similar reports of trouble is to first ensure that the coolant is full. That may mean removing a heater hose or some other component high on the engine to allow any air collected to get out, or maybe even be forced out with my pressure tester. Then I road test the vehicle with a scan tool connected. That way I can monitor the engine temperature with not only the gage, but with the sending unit that the PCM uses to control the fuel injection. If they both agree and the engine is running hot, then that directs my next step. If there is a discrepancy between the two temperature readings I need to find out why. If both sensors are reporting higher than normal temperatures, I watch to see how much engine load plays a role in both the creation of engine heat, as well as dissipation of the heat once created. I will often stop alongside the road and use my infrared thermometer to measure radiator surface temperatures. This shows me if the coolant in the radiator is flowing smoothly, or if there are restrictions. The temperature of the air going through the radiator also shows me if I might be dealing with restricted airflow. Engine surface temperatures, are also checked to see if the entire engine is evenly heated. Internal restrictions to coolant flow inside an engine can occur. Did you know that leaving a thermostat out completely can in fact leave the temperature gage low, while a portion of an engine badly overheats? I can't tell you how many times I have had to throw away a piece of cardboard that someone stuck between the radiator and the condensor so that they got heat in the winter, and then they forgot to remove it themselves come summer. Of course the reason they do that is the normal failure often associated with a bad thermostat, stuck open, FWIW, they can stick closed, or partially open but it's rare, like one out of fifty. People in a town like Erie Pa. that have a lot of cottonwood poplar trees have to watch for that cotton building up in the condensor cores, which results in limited airflow, and a similar report of overheating. Camaro's, and Firebirds of the 80's and 90's often had plastic ductwork come loose behind the bumper that was supposed to direct air through the radiator. At highway speeds, this would allow the ductwork to deform, and actually block airflow instead of forcing it through the radiator. Even the air dam below the radiator support is an important and often overlooked as a cause of engine overheating on the highway. The most likely cause of your vehicles problem right now is a coolant leak, and you probably have air stuck behind the thermostat. Replacing the stat, people opften then fill the system correctly, and the falsely think they fixed the car, only to have it act up in a week or two (or less). If you really think you cannot afford a pro to fix this, just wait till you blow a head gasket from actually overheating this a few times. If this is the Single Overhead Cam V-6 with two timing chains like mine, the special tool kit that ONLY WORKS ON THAT ENGINE, to set the timing chains is $500. You will find that only the top shops, and dealerships have invested in owning that tool kit. That's what your actually paying for.

I would not recommend most aftermarket warranties. The one from the manufacture is good. As far as the aftermarket ones, I have been in the repair bussiness for over 20 years. Most of the warranty compaies dont want to cover any of the repairs and leave the customer holding the bag so to speak. They will either say the repair is needed because of abuse or normal wear and tear and thats how they get out of paying. Many times when the vehicle needs major engine work or replacement, they make the customer authorize tear down costs up front which most of time is a waste of the customers money when we already know the engine is shot. So if the customer does authorize the tear down, they have to shell out say $800. When we call the warranty company about the needed repairs, They say" Sounds like abuse and we dont cover that" or Thats normal wear and tear and we dont cover that". Get the maunfacture warrany. The good warranty will cost over $1000 but is wourth it.