Hello stompoutbermuda, This is really quite a coincidence as I rarely visit the landscaping forum, but just happened upon it a couple of days ago. From what I can see of the mountain range in your pics, and I could be wrong, but it appears as though we are practically neighbors. :-) If so, I live in the neighboring town maybe 7 or so miles east of your location. I agree with the poster who said you've got a 'diamond in the rough' there. I'm in my 50's and have lived in this area for nearly 40 years, and have seen many a beautiful desert oasis built in the area where it appears you are. :-) Not being a fan of snakes either, lol, I feel safe to say that in the many years I've spent in the high desert, and many hikes out in the desert, I have seen rattlesnakes as many times, or less, than I can count on one hand. They are shy creatures, not aggressive, and while dangerous, they are an important part of the desert community. We would be overrun with rodents otherwise. And I also agree with the poster who said king snakes, roadrunners and hawks are natural predators who help to keep the rattlers at bay. I'm afraid it's a waste of money, effort and time to try to create a snake proof fence. Your best bet is to accept that they are a part of the community - walk with loud but cautionary steps around hiding areas where they may be, and carry a long stick with you if you need to poke around in an area which may be a hiding place for them. If I may offer a few suggestions, for what they are worth...? :-) Line your fence line with oleanders and cypress. Both are drought and wind resistant, are green all year round, and the oleanders offer beautiful and colorful blooms this time of year. Yes, oleanders are poisonous, but one would have to actually consume many leaves, or breathe the fumes of burning plants to be in danger. Many, many homeowners in this area have oleanders on their fence line for a windbreak, and I have yet to hear of anyone becoming sick as a result of them. I've raised two children here in the high desert and now have several grandchildren enjoying the slow pace and beautiful sunsets over the Sierras. :-) As far as gardening, there is no reason why you can't realize your dream of having a productive garden. I say this as I just went outside and picked several ripe and juicy tomatoes from my plants. I visit gardenweb often and lurk, but I believe this is my first post as it pertains to something I actually know a little something about. LOL. Enjoy your new home, you really do have a diamond in the rough. It sounds like you have some great ideas to create your little oasis. Please pardon me if I have sounded presumptuous. Sincerely, satura

The endwalls come up the bottom 2.5 feet and can travel over the inside crops or go over the new crop, as in carrots. Here is a video of moving it. My brother in law is on the other side and they slide right down the track with minimal effort (minimal for me). I have now gotten to point that I move them myself. I just pull it up myself. I just yank one side 2 to 3 feet and then walk over and do the same thing to the other side and just walk it up or down the rails. It takes me about 30 minutes to unbolt, move one space and rebolt it in its new home. It takes about 20 minutes if I have two people. Some people show how they can move their high tunnel, much bigger with just 2 people. Those systems are extremely high priced and in my mind aren't worth the expense. Why spend $1,000's of dollars in tracks and wheels to move it "Easier" 3 or 4 times a year. About the plastic and PVC interaction, I haven't seen it. I have replaced my plastic after 4 years due to seam failures, not plastic/PVC interactions. I have never painted them either. I am thinking I will get 8 to 10 years out of it, or more. However, my first tunnel, I did a minor replacement of the soft 2 by 4's after 4 years. The funny thing is the 2 by 4 hip boards were in worse shape than the baseboards. Both were untreated pine. Jay Here is a link that might be useful: Moving our movable high tunnel

I don't know the true definition of a farmers porch but for our design I am speaking about a front entry area with a covered roof - the roof for the covered deck/ entry area has a much shallower pitch than the rest of the house - as does the carport which is attached to a side hitch garage. The two roofs, over the front entry (farmers porch) and carport are 3.5 / 12 pitch ... -and both face the street.

You probably have done it by now, but I would suggest using twinwall polycarbonate sheets. In 7a I would probably stick with the clear 8mm twinwall. I have had several customers buy the carport frames that you see everywhere and cover them this way. The only issue is that you may need to add purlins depending on the spacing of the existing frame. Here is a quick guide to installing polycarbonate, the purlin spacing is at the bottom of page 2.