Is 600 cfm enough for 36' induction cooktop?
flwrs_n_co
13 years ago
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weissman
13 years agoflwrs_n_co
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Bertazzoni gas/induction cooktop with a Zephyr 400 CFM Hood?
Comments (13)Would you believe May? Finally got the Berta up and running about two weeks ago. Really like it so far. Only issues so far is that the induction burners are pretty close to each other so putting two largish pots on them is pretty tricky. The other odd thing is that the knobs that operate the induction burners are turned clockwise and go low to high (and then Boost), while the gas burners turn counter clockwise and go from high (light) to low. Also, there is a plug inside the gas inlet for shipping, make sure you or your installer pulls it out before installing. Induction is everything advertised, immediate power changes, things come to heat quickly, loads of control and easy to clean. The large gas burner puts out a good amount of power as well. Haven't done anything overly smokey yet, but the Zephyr is reasonably quite and puts out good light. Will put some pictures up soon....See More600 CFM isn't enough for me
Comments (2)As an adjunct to the cooktop hood, I use a NuTone (now Broan) roof fan ducted to a pair of registers holding filters in the ceiling aligned to the front of the wall ovens. This setup hasn't been cooked with yet, but I expect it to evacuate a significant part of the effluent released when an oven door is opened. Previously, this fan was ducted to a single register in the ceiling in front of a range as well as to an over range hood. Odor reduction from oven cooking was significantly improved over the range hood alone. Commercial kitchens use a device called a brow hood over wall ovens in circumstances where large ceiling hoods (sometimes entire perforated ceilings) aren't used. I was unable to see a way to nicely integrate a brow hood into my kitchen reno, hence the ceiling registers. kas...See MoreQuietest inline range hood - 600 CFM + for an induction stovetop
Comments (15)No you can see everything you need on the Tradewind web site. They have detailed pics with each piece labeled and the use of said piece defined. I learned everything I needed to know about hoods on their site. I have the inline silencer and also the neoprene pieces at joints. This greatly reduces noise . 10" is what you need for duct. The actual air is what makes noise so you reduce that as much as possible which is why you want baffles and large duct, Also it is why you want "more" rather than less cfm so you can run it on less and get more :) I have a 54" 1400 cfm mounted 33" over our 36" gas Caldera and Miele deep fat fryer. Their total space is 54" too. Due to the size of the hood and the cfm I didn't need to go any extra inches. The capture is perfect as it is. You don't have to go wider than your 36"either if you don't want to ...mount it at the proper height and get a good hood and you are set. Remember to turn it on 5-10 min before you start to cook to get the air flowing and then leave it on for that same time at the end to get it all out. Here is the other thread with my pics and a link to the other discussion with more pics. c Here is a link that might be useful: Tradewind hood pics...See MoreVent Hood: What size/cfm for induction cooktop?
Comments (4)In the interest of brevity, (for prolixity search this forum on keywords such as plume, effluent, MUA, hood, etc.), here are a few maxims: The air velocity at the baffles has to be high enough to keep the rising and expanding cooking plume from reflecting down and out of the hood. This value is proportional to the velocity of the rising plume, which is proportional to the temperature of the cooking surface (for large surfaces), and of the flame combustion product (for small surfaces, large flames, and obviously gas cooktops). I recommend 90 ft/min for general all-purpose success, but with modest induction cooking, you might get away with only 60 or 70 ft/min. Feet per minute is equivalent to CFM per square foot of hood entrance aperture. The hood entrance aperture should overlap the pan surfaces by enough to encompass at least a 10-degree half angle from the contour of possible surfaces bounds (except where constrained by a wall). Obviously, as the hood height is increased, the size has to increase to meet this angle. From the above two results, the required total flow rate (CFM) is calculated. Duct diameter should be such that the velocity of the air inside is in the 1000 to 2000 ft/min range to minimize grease deposition. The higher end of this range may be best in warm climates. Blowers are usually rated for flow rate at zero static pressure, i.e., hanging in the air. In a ventilation system there is restriction that causes pressure drops (called loss). As pressure loss increases, flow rate decreases according to the fan curve of the blower. The CFM rating should be some multiple of the CFM required. The exact multiple depends on many things, including the fan curve, different for each blower, and MUA restriction. I recommend using a factor of 1.5 to be safe with open windows for MUA. (Note that screens will have a pressure loss depending on the open window space.) I will skip MUA maxims in this message, as open windows in southern CA should be adequate. Please search on MUA to find out about hazards of low interior house pressure with combustion appliances. kas...See Morebreezygirl
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